whatsisname

Brad, Using too much OB tends to coat the plugs in residue. This shows up as an orange coating with some OB's. A turbo engine that's been using OB will have the turbine wheel covered in the stuff too. I'd guess that some are better than others? (i.e provide RON increases with less build up). I'm no "expert" on OB (or anything else automotive for that matter, aircraft however....) but I'd rather tune for 98RON & keep the plugs as foul free as possible, which my current 11.2 A/FR isn't helping If only we could get 100+RON unleaded @ the pump :uh-huh:

See above

Yeah I know the 1-2hp mods are piddly but hey I'm just tinkering till the $ are sufficient to "really" play. At one stage my car had a grand total of 126rwkw (in the early days) so with almost double that now it's not like I've been chasing 1-2hp mods all along. Man I've got a head full of 20-50-100kw plans, I just don't have the cash flow to do them atm. Well I could but my other 1/2 & new bub wouldn't be very impressed with me! The A/FR's need some work no doubt about it! And I'd love a 2535 You're welcome to use my car as a test mule to demonstrate the benefits of the 2535/RB25DET combo I was a non-believer but I sure do believe now, it's damn impressive what '200' max turbos can really make if well set-up!

I've not used Torco but I was aware of it, it's looks like a proven product. The Torco website also shows hp gains from using quality drivetrain lubricants, exactly what I was getting @ to start with!

Redline product tests are carried out on all types of engines, long haul truck, race bikes, production performance street cars, full drag cars & so on... Have a good read of the dyno link I posted above, it was carried out on a stock production C5 Corvette, which runs the LS1/GEN3 Commie engine, i.e. nothing special (if you can call a C5 Corvette nothin' special). Read this - http://www.c5-corvette.com/redline.htm I've used a number of oils (diff,g/box & eng) over the yrs, including but not limited to, Motul / Castrol / Mobil / Redline / Shell / Repsol. I use Motul 300V for the engine & Redline in the diff/'box. The Redline "Shockproof" is no gimmick! It works, & bloody well :uh-huh: The improvement in shift quality is nothing short of amazing! Some OEM truck manufacturers insist on owners using Redline "Shockproof" to honour g/box warranty claims! I'm starting to sound like I work for Redline As for Redline & motorsports (drag racing in particular) have a look here - http://www.redlineoil.com/motorsports.htm

Brad, Yep mate you're dead right, oils won't MAKE power but they sure will REDUCE drivetrain losses! For example, take a 200hp eng'/drivetrain combo running on average grade oils (or oil that's seen better days) run it on the dyno & it'll make 130rwhp. Now drain those average or old oils & refill with top quality "proven" oils, run the car again & instead of 130rwhp (70hp DT loss) you'll find a 135hp (65hp loss) sure it's not much but 5rwhp is 5rwhp! Of course you’re not going to gain 20hp from a diff oil cx, unless you're currently using 500W/1000 By "proven" I mean an oil that has shown measurable gains in comprehensive testing on a dyno, such as Redline! The important factor with high quality low viscosity oils (ie. Motul 5W/30 – 10W/40 or Redline “Shockproof”) is they have better temp’ protection properties than a lower grade or mineral oil yet the use lower viscosity to do it. Lower viscosity means less internal friction & reduction in lost power. Have a read here - http://www.redlineoil.com/dyno.htm

Naa I don't use OB these days, fouls plugs! Since the initial LT12 tune I've had: * Furthering tuning by Tim * Oil catch can * Replaced the stock BOV & piping for a GFB "Basic" atmo' (actually flows more CFM than the GFB loud BOV's) * Plus about 25klms ago I did a full fluid & filter cx, Fresh Motul 300V eng' oil / Redline "Shockproof" lightweight g/box & Redline diff' fluids (all of which helps mimimise d/train losses). Like I wrote earlier, I think a big factor was that the 236rwkw run was after a full tune. The inlet tract was well heat soaked when we did the final power run, just ask Bug's how hot the engine bay/turbo etc.. was! The turbo was red hot & water temps were well up. I think 250rwkw @ 1.0bar is not out of the question as is (need injectors to be safe though).

High flowing the stock injectors sounds like the way to go, IF it works well. Let me know what you find out thanks mate

Clint, I'm interested! :uh-huh: Haven't got a lot of cash flow ATM but I'm very interested none the less! So they drill out the stock injectors to a larger size? i.e 370cc becomes 450cc. Provided that it's a reliable end product I'm very very interested!!!

I've performed a few xtra minor tweaks since the 236 run @ RPM, nothing much but it all adds up. The 236 was after a full tune too so heat soak would've been a factor. Rich A/FR's show it's got some more in it yet! I need a 1.2-1.5mm head gasket (some 550's would be a good idea too)

Yeah do it ST, wind the boost up to buggery Stuff getting another 20k outta' them. Just keep winding boost into them until they don't make anymore rwkw, or a CT12A turbine wheel ends up somewhere down Nth East Rd :lol: Seriously though the JZGTE family (1 & 2) is very impressive! I could've gone & wound the boost to 1.2bar & beyond but I doubt it would've got me 280+rwkw, but I am 100% SURE if I'd cracked pistons in the process the repair costs would see one very angry wife + new born @ home :cuss: :gaga: :chairshot:

A GTS25t has a dry weight of: 1370kg - 5sp 1390kg - Auto Note: Fig's straight outta' the factory sales books My lard arse Skyline came in @ 1445kg (wet) on the RAAF weigh bridge (1/2 tank of juice, full trim, spare etc...) Full weight with me on board is ~1520kg = 161rwkw/ton.

Joel, My 215.5rwkw run had a trap speed of 109.5mph & a 60ft of 2.153 (13.1 ET) Aside from a good power to weight ratio the 2 biggest factors that help Brad's GTR run the times it does are grip (suspension/slicks) & "most importantly" diff/gearing! I think you'll find Brad's GTR, with it's 4.56 ratio & 5k stall auto, will run out of top end well before your Skyline. If we were to gear our cars the same way we'd run significantly quicker ET's but our NT hwy high speed runs would drop by just as much If we lined the Joel GTS-t up vs. the Brad GTR & did a standing start the GTR would reach the 400m mark quite a bit quicker, but if we didn't stop @ the 400m mark (apart from ending up in the sand trap ) you'd find the GTS-t would eventually run down & pass the GTR. Some time ago I got the chance to open my car up on a safe stretch of tarmac, I got up to 6200-6300rpm in 5th, this works out to be ~247km/h (using rpm, diff & gear ratios + tyre circumference). Out of interest Brad what's your GTR's top speed?

I've used Castrol VMX80, Motul & Redline "Shockproof" in the g/box. Redline "Shockproof" is by FAR the best! The difference in shift quality is nothing short of amazing! It's not cheap though @ $110-$115 for a 3.785L (1 US Gal) container. The GTS25t g/box takes almost the whole container.

What an excellent day all round Big thanks to all involved Henry (Brute), Mat (Redline), Martin, Mark, Brains, the Vic lads & lasses, & anyone else I've left out? Good to put a few names to faces too Just a few of my personal standout fav's: SPOOLIN (Lee) - Going from 219rwkw to 281rwkw by swapping a few "slightly restrictive" (HUGE UNDERSTATEMENT!) pipes. BLO-305 (Mark - I think?) - 286rwkw without a blower, turbo or nitrous in sight! And one awesome idle! Street Tuner (Martin) - 281.3rwkw on stock 1JZGTE turbos (not much else is stock though!) @ 1.2bar their days are numbered GOKU (Haz & Tammy) - 304rwkw Nuff' said! Bugalugs (Matt) - 204rwkw with the bare essentials (v/good FMIC set-up, xtra boost, pod & exhaust) The car is a freak Matt! No obvious ECU mod's X Japan yet spot on A/FR's of 12.2:1 up top!

As long as comp' O/L pipe heat is prevented from effecting the boxed area you're laughin'

Adam & Jay, I'm not too sure from the picture of Adam's set-up but does the compressor outlet pipe run through the boxed section? This pipe radiates a LOT of heat! For this reason I made my box/shield with a section molded around the comp' outlet pipe so it's outside of the boxed area, & with enough of a gap to stop as much radiated heat as possible.. During testing on the dyno (3 runs with bonnet down nil airflow into CAI) the temp's inside the boxed area were measured @ 25'c lower than on the eng' bay side. Measuring the comp' O/L pipe surface showed temp's well over 80'c.

I don't doubt a better diff will help but I don't think I need to go to that extent, yet! It wouldn't be in 1st gear that you've seen my diff single spin, 'cause I almost never "really" nail it in first (not enough to light it up) It's in 2nd that I find things get a bit loose! Throttle control would help but I'd like to get as much power down as I can.

Grepin, No prob's mate you're in. Chris, Yep your still on the list mate! Here's the list from SASA so far. THE CUTOFF FOR ENTRY IS 5PM THURSDAY 10TH OCT! SO GET IN QUICK! If anyone else is keen to enter then log on & let me know before the cutoff! 1. - whatsisname 2. - Chris32 3. - Drift Spec 4. - Clint32 5. - MattR 6. - Bugalugs 7.- GTR King 8. - Nightcrawler 9. - Howie 10. - Doglet 11. - r32gts-4 12. - Joel (maybe?) 13. - diggity 14. - sir_GTR (maybe?) 15. - grepin 16. - Mr Smith CYA all there

Freebaggin, I'm very interested in the RE540S myself mate! I've had a few prices on the 540's, I've also had good feedback from a few Skyline owners (GT-R & GTS) on them. They're looking good so far! I'm happy I was incorrect about the sizes too Joel, Being able to spin the rears is still fun but I'd like to see how it goes when I can get some really good grip! I recently got the Whiteline rear subframe align/lock kit & did some more rear camber work (thanks Bug's for the kit!). I had a decent aligning session & set camber @ -1.5 front & -0.5 rear. Traction on my current rubber is still crap, better than it was though!

Oops! Sorry Andy. The start time is 10am. :uh-huh:

All good info guys. Thanks, keep it coming! G'day John, I'll let you know re the Toyo's. I'm not sure if 255's will fit on the front of a GTS?

Hungry6, Thanks for the info mate. Which Formula R's are you running? How do you find cold tyre & wet weather grip levels? NismoGirl, The Dunlop D01J (one of the Formula R range) is ~$425 (235/45/17) I think you probably meant 255/40/17. I'd guess a 255/40/17 D01J would be ~$500.

None of you guys have used these tyres?

Too low, too loud, dark tint, stupid driving in built up areas & all the other stuff that draws attention. At the end of the day if the police want to they can come up with something totally ridiculous to defect a dead standard car! It might be total BS but it'll still be a pain to clear. I've seen a legit' written defect notice in NSW for "no shift pattern displayed on the gear shift"!!! The driver was most likely busted doing the wrong thing & the cop went to town on him. I'm with BRUTE, it's just a case of keeping a low profile until the blitz eases up, either that or by a POS clunker & drive it into the ground, 'cause the cops don't seem to hassle those cars EDIT: Meanwhile we've got local small time car yards being busted into, cars on the lot being smashed & guard dogs injured! Hmmm? Which one raises more revenue, clamping down on local crime or hassling modified car owners? Recently some interesting road statistics were published in the paper, speed camera revenue. In 1992 (think it was 92? may have been earlier?) the state had 5 cameras operating, road toll was recorded at 164 deaths & 5mil' in fines revenue. 2001 - 50+ cameras operating, 51mil' in fine revenue (a state record!) road toll 165 deaths. Yep speed cameras are really doing a great job in their intended role, saving lives? Hell no making money for the state govenment!