whatsisname

I've seen a few GTS25t owners that have ditched the NVCS in favour of aftermarket cams & adjustable gears, all with good results. These cars all had bigger turbos & a host of other modifications. The JMS 300+rwkw GTS25t (standard internals) is one of these examples. It uses the earlier non-NVCS RB25DE inlet cam. My car has a T3/T4. It's not a high flow of the standard turbo but a total replacement with bigger housings. I'm unsure of the exact specs? The 1/4 #'s in my sig' are pre..... R tyres, Microtech LT12, custom inlet pipe work (nil AFM), cam gear & a few other minor things. No major changes but it all adds up. Oh yeah & some very good tuning too

QUOTE]Originally posted by macka whatsisname thats a nice 1/4 mile time on that boost! were u using the stickys to get the 2.1 60ft? Thanks mate. Believe it or not I actually ran those numbers on my old Falken ZIEX ZE502's (255/40/17). With the extra 40+rwkw & the sticky 540's I'm hoping for @ least mid/high 12's. I'd like to 60' in the 1.9-2.0 range with a mild launch. Back to the topic of cam gears...... As GTS-t VSPEC mentioned, bigger gains will be had on engines with turbo &/or cam upgrades. If anyone is wondering how the RB25DET feels minus NVCS, just disconnect the elec connector to the solenoid & go for a drive! Obviously if you're planning on a complete cam swap then a decent compromise minus NVCS can be found.

Greg/Lachlan, I'm only too happy to take you guys for a ride, & do some comparison tests. Let me know & I'm there! A sub 30'c day or mild night would be best. Best if you ring me (Lachlan has my #) as I'm not on the forums as much these days. Cheers

:lol: Don't need the cement anymore! I've got traction in the form of 255/40/17 RE540S's. They're no Nitto or BFG street drag radial but they sure are an improvement on the Falkens I had :uh-huh: It still will w/spin a touch but nothing like it did before!!!

I'm going off memory here....... it was 215rwkw before the gear & ~224rwkw after, however this was when I still had my Unichip/stock ECU combo & my AFM was maxing out very badly! It was a peak of ~224 but with huge dips in the power curve With a Z32 AFM or a MAP based ECU bigger gains "could" be achieved. I'd say a 10rwkw (peak power) gain is about what you should expect. But you'll probably lose a few kw down low.

I've got an adjustable exhaust cam gear, set to 4' retard. I don't see the stock ECU having too much trouble still running the show but some form of ECU control would see maximum results.

Congrats Greg, Sounds like further "testing" with Lachlan will be fun I'd be keen to contribute to a "testing" session if you'd like? :uh-huh: I think Bugs would be keen too, especially as his car is ~200+rwkw on the Tilbrook dyno too. When Martin did the tune on my car @ Tilbrook's it was ~32'c. The best run was in the mid 240's (rwkw) but after we let the car cool down for a hour or so it made 10+rwkw more! Matt

I'll post up some pics soon. It's pretty damn quick for 2000+kg!

322rwkw @ 1.3 bar. Top job Martin :uh-huh: Oh yeah, happy b'day too! You old bastard

Thought this might interest some of you...... My father in-law got his Toyota Surf back yesterday (12/12/02) after a few months of surgery. Why was it in for surgery? Well..... It all started after he mentioned wanting to replace the turbo diesel with a Holden V8 or V6, too which I replied, "no don't bother with that idea I've got a muuuuch better suggestion!" A 4.0L quad cam Soarer V8 (1UZFE). After he'd watched a few of my video’s with the 4.0L V8 Bullet Roadster in them he was convinced Fast forward 3mths & *many* headaches later & it's back on the road I've yet to have a spin (later today) but from talking on the phone to him it sounds like fun It went from making a grand total of 42kw @ the wheels with the TD to 143kw with the V8. I've already heard it running & it sounds sweeeeet maaaate Now I've just got to convince him to fit that supercharger :uh-huh:

R31 - "box on wheels" = plenty of drag = unlikely to reach 220+km/h. A speedo might "seem" accurate tested via a few road signs on the side of the f/way. It might also be close @ 100-110km/h but that doesn't mean it's still accurate @ 180+km/h. Most speedos have non-linear error. I think you'd be fairly surprised to see just how inaccurate your car speedo was when tested via a known calibrated measuring device. Especially @ high speeds. Talking of high speed I just heard from a good source that a recent magazine speed test had a production CSV Commodore register 286km/h on a speed gun!

Sure you can get to 180-190-200km/h etc.. but as speed goes up so to does drag. It's a LOT harder to hit 230-240km/h & takes plenty of power & a very good CD to push past these speeds. Plus add speedo error into the equation & you'll find your 190km/h in your R31 was probably closer to 175-180km/h.

Yep I've gone the same route, but with an Odyessy ES12V800 (~$280-$300). The factory battery is useless - rated @ 270CCA from memory? I don't need to power a huge audio system so the ES12V800 is more than enough. It's still reasonably light too, don't want too much extra weight www.odysseyfactory.com

I've managed a touch over 6300 in 5th back when I had 215rwkw. 6300 in 5th is ~245-250ish. So I agree a stock GTS25t would be lucky to push past 230-240 before it'd run out of puff or drag would stop the fun.

I've been a supraforums regular for a while now (only posted once or twice though) Very cool forum Some of the "kills" are awesome

Another handy side feature of running a MAP based ECU - no potential atmo BOV related AFM/stalling issues Mick51, The factory GTS-t / GTS25t BOV can flow more than enough air *up to a point* I never had a drama with my standard BOV until about the 220+rwkw mark. It wasn't that the valve leaked, it just wasn't able to flow enough air, which resulted in compressor surge (fluttering sound - NOT good). I now use a GFB "Basic" It's cheap & outflows almost all the other GFB BOV's (& quite a few others!). After all the whole point of a BOV is to dump pressurised air on closed throttle, so the BOV's CFM rating is what really counts!

Very nice guys! Sunroof or not they both look awesome

Changing from a 1.06 to a 0.63 exhaust housing would be the way go. It'll make a bloody huge difference to your lag issue! It shouldn't hurt the top end power too much either.

G'day J, Things are good mate Yeah no prob's dude. I'll take some measurements & let you know shortly. Edit: I've had a quick look. Here's what I got..... Front - ~340mm Rear - ~332mm

G'day Clint, For a daily driver it probably wouldn't be worth it mate. The RE540S isn't as long lasting as say a Yokohama A032R but then the prices I got quoted on A032R's were waaaaay more expensive! Give Laurie a call on 8231 6582 & see what 225/50/16's are worth? Laurie is a really good bloke, very friendly & will certainly look after you on price! I'd guess you'd be looking @ ~ $240ea. My fronts were $280 & rears $310. Matt

Unless the "worked" engine has had it rev range increased it won't be any quicker than the cars gearing (diff & g/box) allows. Increased power only gets you there faster. Gearing will get you a higher top speed!

GTS-t VSPEC, -1.3 rear camber is about the same I had prior to the Whiteline kit (after lowering 30mm). Lowering more than ~30mm without a camber kit ='s uneven tyre wear. The Whiteline camber kits are cheap so it's easy fixed Looking @ the level of engine modifications your car has/will have I'd be aiming for minimal r/camber! Unless you want plenty of :burnout: Matt

I've managed to see (briefly!) a tad over 6300rpm in 5th - private road of course!

Talking of suspension set-ups here's my compromise btw straight-line drag grip, all round driving & cost! Rear camber - less than -0.5 using a Whiteline camber kit + the factory adjustment. From the factory you get -/+0.75 of adjustment. The Whiteline c/kits allow an additional -/+1.5 (via 2 kits) I only needed 1. Front camber - -1.2 Whiteline rear subframe align/lock kit Whiteline blade adjustable sway bars front & rear Kings "low" springs (30mm lower than stock) Standard shocks - I'd like to upgrade these but it's not on the list of priorities, in fact the shocks aren't too bad! Even the suspension workshop that I had do one of my alignments commented that my standard suspension components all appeared to be in good condition! Maybe those low kms are legit'!? Doubt it The standard shocks "should" also help with weight transfer upon launching. All of the above changes have had some positive effect on my cars handling, mostly straight line grip! BUT........ Without a doubt the biggest improvement to rear grip levels was fitting top quality tyres! GTS-t VSPEC - In answer to your last question (in your first post) I don't so much as dial out the neg' camber but set my rear camber fairly neutral all the time. This way both rear grip & tyre life is maximised Race track suspension? I haven’t got a clue in that dept’

Merli / GTS-t VSPEC, Have a quick read of page 3 in this thread (ignore the first 1/2 of the page) MR HPI (Martin Donnon) has some interesting points on both the h/gasket & compression issues! Edit -It'd help if I actually post the link http://forums.skylinesaustralia.com/showth...25&pagenumber=3 Cheers