Andi

Thanks guys, appreciate the feedback on the clutches. Could you guys post up what you paid for it so I can get a general idea of what they cost? Abo Bob - the 440cc I have aren't Nismo, they're Dephi and are apparently direct fit replacement. R31 Nismoid - I don't plan on buying coilpacks yet, I'll try the cleaning the carbon rod and silicon method first before I decide to fork out $600 odd. The fuel reg is already in my posession so I might hang onto it to see if its needed when the tune is done, if not I might just sell it off. Wessa02 & 2gceffy: which clutch are you referring to? The twin plates or heavy duty ones?

Can't you just find a fibreglass version of the Reabar you like and get the place fitting it to mod the bar to have another hole on the other side?

Thanks, Oil cooler will definately be considered if I decide to start getting serious about track work. Adam, are you suggestion I get 480cc or saying you have 480's? The 440cc I've worked out to be able to give approx 250-260rwkw at 90% duty cycle. (440x 6/5 x 0.9 x 0.75 x 0.7 = 250rwkw). Tomei Poncams are also cards depending on budget. How much was the Jim Berry special, could you PM with the details and price of the clutch?

Excellent, thanks SK - always there as usual to help people out. Regarding clutches: what would be a daily driver friendly clutch that can easily handle 250rwkw? Would the 9-puck I'm after seem like the best choice? I previously had a Exedy heavy duty organic clutch in the GTIR and it was very easy to drive, but I'm assuming a clutch like this is not enough for the power I'm after in the GTT? Prior to this it did have a 3-puck Nismo-style one in the GTIR and while it was hard to press on the clutch pedal I did get use to it after a while, so anybody in Sydney with a 9-puck want to let me see what their clutch is like?

As I've somehow been bitten by the mod bug in the past 2 days I've decided that my power goal for a nice car to drive on the streets and occasionally on the track would be ~250rwkw. Been doing abit of research and from what I gather this what I have/will have - will these be enough for a reliable 240-260rwkw output figure? - Hi flow turbo - Turbo back exhaust - K&J Core FMIC - EBC - SS intake + pod + cai - Bosch 040 (enough juice?) - Sard FPR - 440cc Injectors (big enough?) - Z32 AFM - Aftermarket Management (either remap or PFC) My car has done 38,000kms, has an RB25DET Neo and manaul transmission. Completely standard internally and I plan to keep it that way. Also a few questions: 1. The 9-puck single face Exedy clutch seems to be the right clutch for this application? How much are people paying for this kit (pressure plate + clutch face + bearings). 2. Will I run into any gearbox/diff/driveshaft problems at this power? Taking into account that I don't really do any drifting and always take it easy on the box - no bang-bang shifting. Thanks for your time. Cheers Andy

I will take the PFC as long as its still working. Might be interested in the Profec if its Black and the Nismo Cluster depending on kms. Location in Sydney? PM sent as well.

So the blown Nissan turbo is R33 RB25 one? PM if it is, I'm in Liverpool, Sydney.

Wow I must be a ricer haha. Seriously though, after taking away the silly decals, GTR badge and the wing I think it would be an awesome car. Oh and I didn't look at the interior properly, that does look like alot of un-needed gauges. As for the description yep he doesn't really sound like he knows what his talking about. :lol:

Very good read guys, keep up the good work. PM sent as well Jeff.

Jeff could you tell me how much I'd be looking at to have my car remapped, drive in drive out. It would be for the exact situation you described: hiflow turbo, bigger injectors, z32 afm, turbo back exhaust, fmic, fpr, boost controller etc. EDIT: Not a problem mate, will give you a call in a few moments.

I always thought the Z-tune silver was very bright? I was contemplating this colour for my repsray but I went with a different silver. Good luck with the search, and it should look awesome if you get it done.

Just saw this and it seems to be a really nice car. Series 2, Volk GT-C's, Ganador mirrors, GTR bonnet with gap filled up by front bar, Roll cage, wide fenders/pumped guards, Power FC, 270rwkw, Blitz FMIC, Nismo dash, nice seats etc. Depending on how much the car goes for it wouldn't be a bad buy! It'd be one of those cars you buy and simply don't have to do anything to. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2000-Nissan-Skyline...1QQcmdZViewItem What you guys think? I'd definately consider it if I didn't have my car, although I'd remove the decals, go for a milder wing and would get R34 tail lights back!

PM Wogboy, his in Perth and has an R34 Coupe. I'm pretty sure he'll be interested.

Ahh I understand, you fitted the BOV and blocked the recirculation pipe. Just make sure the bung used to block the pipe is on tight with a hose clamp. If you have problems regarding idle its most like your BOV is leaking.

Richard you lucky bastard, I just went through the whole thread and you have again managed to make me green with envy. It was hard enough reading about your adventures on the GTIROZ forums. Glad you had fun mate, I definately want to go a trip to Japan one day. Hurry up and get those other pictures up.

Heres one of a pretty nice R34.

Buddy clubs are hot as, but I say go for the SSR's - are they silver? Would look HOT on your car. Or buy both and keep the P1s for the track and the Prof's for daily. I'll get pics of my car when it gets back (new kit, new rims) but in the meantime heres what it looked like with Volk SE37K's. EDIT: hope you don't mind a silver R34.

Perhaps it IS normal for boost to drop abit then. Maybe I should jump on the dyno to see what the boost curve is like on a graph. Cubes, when playing with teh actuator did you notice any poorer performance using that method as opposed to EBC? i.e. did boost come on slower or anyting like that? Anybody else with an RB turbo notice their boost dropping?

I didn't swap it but I don't see any extra holes so I'd say that it does.

You're confusing two things for one. You either swap your stock plumb back BOV for an ATMO one or you BLOCK the standard one. They generally both screw up your AFM readings resulting in backfire, stalling issues, idle issues. I've blocked the stock BOV and the only thing I've noticed is that perhaps my fuel economy has gone down abit and that I get the occasional loud pop (backfire) on gearchanges. No stalling or idle issues.

Mine came with the car and I personally think it looks great. Much better then the standard wing and I can't stand an R34 without a wing. Nothing wrong with adding some parts from a GTR to a GTT, I'd think of it as flattery. As long as you don't go claiming that your car is something its not - i.e. GTR badges.

Because the turbine wheels are ceramic as oppose to the usual steel and as such don't take much boost/heat. The R34 compressor wheels are nylon as well. Cheers for the link Gary but unfortunately that doesn't suit my car. It seems like the DFA is just what I'm after.

A request for a change to Andi please. Andy is taken already but that bloke hasn't been on since last year.

Aww cheers guys. If not I think I may just take out the bucket (GTIR).

West sounds good. If car is back by the 30th (hopefully get it back a few days before then) I'm definately in.