JAPCAB

Yesterday was nice weather as you all know, went for a cruise! However i was a bit pissed off when parked in a car park standing next to the car smokin a ciggie and some dude about 40 rolls past in his commo stationwagon and pops down the window and says ' aww how many of ur other mates have you killed in that car' , obiviously referring to the recent crash with the black skyline. F***ing wanker. I wont tell you what happened after that But is this the attitude of people to anyone owning a skyline? This dude was like 40 something...i'm surprised he even knew what a skyline was the fkn knob.

I've raced a few GTI-R's before, and on the run always busted em hard. From the lights with a 7k launch they definately get a head start but as long as you launch well yourself you can catch em top end.

at least if the cops pull u over and ask you how fast u were going u can honestly say that u had no idea hehe

The guy did mention that the range grondid just got replaced, and that this is a common part to fail on skylines from the early 90's, and costs roughly $3000 to fix.

With regards to your stealth BOV, give them a call first it will save you a return trip. Explain to them the function of your bov and they will tell you whether you need the stock one put on or not. If you have a stock BOV handy throw it on to save hassle. With your boost controller, you may get away with having the electronic part still mounted in your car and the wires going through to the engine bay - explain to them that it was expensive to install and its a hassle to take it out all the wiring etc. You will need to remove the boost solenoid and restore the stock plumbing & connect stock boost solenoid. If your lucky your boost controller electronic unit can be disconnected from all the pipes etc so you can just leave the wires/pipes tucked away. Best bet is to whip it all out. Exhaust emissions - make sure you have a working O2 sensor, an intact cat. Exhaust dB test - throw on a stock cat back. Stock cat and stock cat back exhaust clocked 85db on my car. limit is 90.

For Sale, Blitz BOV, good condition, taken off r33. No adapter, just BOV. Makes good sound. Reason for sale - putting on stock BOV, cbf with defects etc. $200 ONO. make an offer.

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The Cooler is still on my car, i will take it off within the next day or so and take some pics, measure core etc. It includes the blue trust cooler piping. The condition is quite good. Hopefully i'll get some spare time tmrw and i'll remove it. Thanks for the interest so far guys

For sale - Genuine Trust Side mount intercooler About 3 times bigger/thicker than the stock r33 gts-t intercooler. Comes with all piping, direct bolt on for r33 gts-t. fits into stock cooler position so EPA/cops never notice. Tight package, no lag. Not sure what they are worth but will sell for $400 ONO. make me an offer.

My mate had this same problem, it turned out to be the coil packs. Get a shit heap of insulating tape and tape up the stems, and grab some araldite and fill in any cracks. You can give that a try, otherwise you are up for a few new coil packs.

Installing 6x9's in the back parcel shelf will be a bitch; you will have to cut the metal to fit the speakers in, your better off just popping in some 6 inch splits. once u get the back seat out, there is little room to work on the parcel shelf because of the back windshield, and not much room again to get in from the boot.

I replaced spark plugs with NGK BCPR6ES, and while i was changing them i taped up the coil pack stems; have i taped up the wrong thing? Should i be taping up/aradite'ing the black box things? Should i only tape them up if there are cracks or do it anyway? I was experiencing some missing aswell but since the new plugs and taping the stems it has dissapeared...

perhaps spark plugs?

thats bad luck. One of my mates has a r33 S1, and he got T boned on the drivers side about a month ago. The car was written off, but the engine etc is untouched. He got the engine rebuilt about 15,000 odd km's ago, he has reciepts etc for the work aswell. Engine is in very good knick - PM me if you want any more information.

is the window fully down? my window has problems going up aswell, however it always goes down fine. With my window if i take it down say half way, and it doesn't want to go back up again, i hit the top of the window down while holding the switch and it comes back up again. If your window is fully down take off the door trim, get a thin bit of wood or something u can stick down the door onto the top of the window, hold the window switch to bring the window back up and tap down on the window. see if it works.

Easiest way to find out would be to get a friends driver side button thingo, pull it out (its only 1 screw from inside the handle)unplug it and then plug it into your door. If its still no go then your window motor is fkt. My mate had a window motor replaced on his r33 but the guy didnt' put in a skyline one because he couldn't find one, so he popped in another window motor and the window used to go up like 3 times faster than a normal skyline window motor hehe.

Q1 - fuse boxes are located in the boot, under steering wheel and under the bonnet. Q2 - yeah that noise pisses me off too....if anyone knows how to disable it let me know too! Q3 - The boost guage is displaying 'negative' (vacuum pressure) on idle because there is no boost being created. This is normal.

Anyone got any tricks for tein coilovers that haven't been adjusted in ages and after heavy WD-40 still refuse to move? would appreciate any tips/suggestions.

Clean your air flow meter with carby cleaner.

See what i mean its total bullshit....this guy is just driving along normally...happens to drive past knox cop shop and because he is driving a skyline he gets pulled over for no reason. . . . same thing happens to the canary yellow VL turbos

Just thump in massive spacers

Hehe its definately not a skyline; I wonder if he gets hassled by cops thinking its a skyline by the tailights and pulling it over to try and defect it

James u f*cking arsehole........lol

I was wondering - for a roadworthy certificate - is it ok to have 16 inch rims on the back axle and 18's on the front?

I agree; you probably need a air con re-gas