Steve

Too high? I was under the impression that the gudgeon pin in a RB26 is closer to the crown of the piston than on an RB25. As megalla pointed out, it would result in a lower CR If someone is trying to sell me something, generally I believe 2/5s to fark all of what they say. I will listen to what they say, but alot of time people who are trying to sell you stuff do it because they want to make some money. If I were you I would as somewhere else, as GTR pistons will probably cost half or 1/3 of the cost of forgies (therefore 1/2 - 1/3 the profit for the salesman) I am not knocking what you have said, just find it hard to believe that there is a problem as the design of the head for RB26 and RB25 is very similar, ie same casting as far as I know. But if this is genuinely the case, that would be good info. I am a bit of a sceptic at heart:) As far as I know, Arias, Wiesco, JE - all good pistons, ie I have never heard any bad about them and it wouldnt make alot of difference which one you chose if you are chasing 250rwkw.

Preferred for what? what one person preferres is different to the next. Are you after mid range, top end - drag, circuit, street?

So who is supposed to be deluded, or am I missing the clause that states 'all will have to do this execept 9krpm'? Your right we will see.

Deluded? Oh thanks for clearing that up for me. Makes life so much easier when those that dont lend to your negative view on life are delude eh? And just to make it clearer for you, the govt may be dreaming if they think you are going to taking your car to get it inspected? bwahaha - YOU are dreaming if you think you will still be driving if you dont - FACT

Nope

rice:p hehehe

Bottom line? which would you prefer: all those shit boxes that drive around on the street, potential accidents waiting to plow into your car, or worse still you or your family left in peace while the drivers of nice cars get defected all the time for bullshit like 'I think your car is not legal ride height, so you better get down to regency' OR those shitboxes removed from the street AND you get to have your vehicle inspected by the workshop that you have been forking out your hard earned mod dollars (like in Vic) Why not ask Miss Nismo who she would have preferred to have the vehicle inspected by when she changed the rego to SA in her R32, or one of the many guys who were defected with imports? and lastly, would you bitch if as you were driving home from getting defected, you pulled up at the lights next to some rust bucket spewing smoke and bouncing all over the place because the suspension is so rooted, yet they drive around all day evey day with out a care in the world? All I am saying is, look at the big picture. Bottom line, I would be happy to pay a few dollars to have my car inspected if I knew that dangerous pieces of junk were being removed. With any luck their will be better spinoffs (easier vehicle inspections for rego transfer/defect) as well. Either way, neither you nor I will change it, but I think it aint all bad, you choose to think it is. I hope your wrong:p

The only noise testing I know of that a car needs to be roadworthy has to do with the exhaust, this is done with the car at revs, and the EXHAUST is not to exceed 89dBs. This is conducted with the car at specific revs, not changing gear - so I am not sure how any copper gets away with defecting cars for excessive intake noise (how could it exceed 89dB?) or noisey BOV which wouldnt be measured if a car was being tested for compliance with noise regulations - only for atmo BOV or pod that doesnt comply with ADRs. I have heard of people claiming to be defected for this, and I would love to know exactly what regutation/act it is that they would be in breach of?

As YBSLO4 mentioned BOVs are illegal if they vent to atmo, because cranck case gasses must exit the car via the exhaust, Road Traffic Act 1962 (from memory) in SA. These traffic laws are now pretty much consistant australia wide. So they MUST plumb back to be legal - like the stock one. As for adjusting BOV, tighter will mean it takes more (boost) pressure for the valve to lift. Yes it will make less noise, but the fluttering noise you hear is air reversing through the compressor, slowing the turbo down (increasing lag) and putting strain on the turbine - this isnt too good for obvious reasons. I adjusted mine by winding it back until the fluttering sound was almost gone. Almost, because if you wind it back too far, you may have the car stall at idle as it doesnt seal properly. Something to have a play with until you are happy.

you dont get nothing for nothing - unless you could get the mechanics to do it out of charity

Only one thought, did they say why?

Thats the funny thing, you could be the biggest fark head in the world and get voted in to politics, no intelligence/education required, just a personallity that people will vote for! Scary stuff, but I still prefer to look on the upside to the rego inspection things, rather than focus on the bad...lol

Before 186rwkw, after 203rwkw AND my AFM doesnt hit max voltage at 4500 rpm any more. I have heard from quite a few reliable people and performance shops to believe that their is no benefit. In what context was Mick referring?

Nice work JAPSIX, and nice choice of colour:)

Probably not really necessary to run a line from the breather line to the plenum, just from the other side (1 line only) and block the ones off that you indicated.

IMHO - both. Best to do low load/partial throttle/cruise on the road, as it is difficult to reproduce these conditions on a dyno. It can be a bit hard/dangerous to do high rpm runs on the road under high load. Much safer on a dyno where AF ratios are more easily monitored and repeated full power runs conducted in saftety. EDIT: to qualify the above, I am definately no expert, far from it. this is just what I have seen from personal experience and what others have told me - too many variables including the experience of the person doing the tuning.

One tiny spark, but you will still have trouble getting fuel vapours to ignite unless you have enough oxygen, so very very unlikely. the other problem is, where is the positive terminal going to contact? Its all earthed and plastic. the stock pump on mine was just connectors on the pump with nuts - no insulation what so ever. Another thought, have you tried adjusting the air bleed screw on the back of the ACC (or is it AAC:)) vavle? might be worth a try.

I think your cup is half empty:D

I had trouble with my stock clutch at under 200rwkw. At first it just seemed the car was a bit sluggish, then she just gave up and although the engine revved the car didnt accelerate much. On the dyno I still managed to get a basic tune, but as soon as the ph raised above 180rwkw, the curve just flatlined. I do think it will be well worth while holding off until the clutdh arrives, may save having to get it retuned after the new clutch arrives - like I had to do:)

running out at 58L isnt too bad, like I said before, guys I know have been having surge probs form 1/4 to 1/2 tank on a professionally (arguable) done job, so I think you should be feeling reasonably happy with yourself. I think I am a bit like you, I like things to be 100% right, otherwise I may be pretty happy but not completely satisfied. Hope all goes well with the retune:)

INASNT, Evan of PSI Fabrication will make a tuned length manifold from steam pipe for $1200. His stuff is a work of art, and he has a very good reputation here in Adelaide for high quality work. That is with a T3 flange, he can make adaptors to GT25 too if needed. Alot of his work has been featured in HPI and Zoom, the only downside is he can take a while.

JimX, my pumps sounds like it is in the same spot as yours in relation to the bracket. I got it in (all the way) by bending the locating lugs out a bit and then just pushing/wiggling it side to side:D Took about 60sec and then just slit into place....must have been lucky:) so who did you end up getting the fittings from? My pump is pretty quiet too, quite a pleasant surprise, I was expecting alot more noise than I got. with the stalling thing, I found a couple of loose hoses connected to the plenum and one with a small split where it joined the plenum. that fixed most of the problem, but it still had troubles so I adjusted my BOV tighter and presto, problem solved:) I am replacing the BOV with a trust type R which adjust like a wastegate, so hopefully when that is on, the problem wont resurface.

this may help: http://www.apexi-usa.com/documentation.asp

Where did you hear about this problem? Ignition control is supposed to be via intercept of the signal from the crank angle sensor? so how does it have problems with autos? I have only seen a e-manage on an auto supra and it worked great.

What size is the actual vavle? I believe that this is the normal way to express the size of a wastegate. Mine is a 40mm HKS Standard gate. It may be a bit small, but I thought I would give it a bash and upgrade if boost creep happens. Bigger compressors do flow more, but the gasses have to leave through the turbine, which also needs to be taken into consideration when sizing wastegates. for example, if you put a turbo on a car, and the turbine was so big that it only build 1.2 bar of boost, and you wanted to run only 1 bar of boost, you wouldnt need a wastegate at all. Silly example I know, but it is purely for demonstration:D