Steve

HKS gaget. James from D1 Garage got it for me when he was in Japan. Asked one of his mates at signal which is best and he recommended HKS - so it should be ok:) 400+ probably is pushing it a bit, They were sprayin nos down the intake at the time, but I am quite confident if it can do a power run at that sort of power without detonation, 300 would be a walk in the park with the right setup.

They do look suspiciously like the carrerra GT, have you checked out the vitals? Pretty impressive specs and differend diameter wheels front and back - 19x9.5in front, 20x12.5in rear that would keep em guessing at regency..hehehehe. And it has titanium con rods, wonder how much for 6 for the 'line?

thanks but I think there are enough of those already:) Besides I work for the govt, so its not really working...lol

You beat me to it hippy. Pretty funny really - he didnt believe they were ohlins until enough dirt/black paint (probably from detailing) was removed to be able to read the label, even had me doubting for a while there:p

I have a BBug Bachelor of Bugger All....hehehehe

Joel, good luck. With all the added torque of a 3L, my money is on you not having much left in your box apart from metal filings - sorry to say. Clint32 blew his up with a 2L and 230odd rwkw, can you imagine what 30%+ more torque is going to do? Hope you got a bus pass:p

Probably:p

zforce, I really dont know for sure, but I would love to see what happens when the boost is wound up to 1.5-2bar on the 2530. Working on 250rwkw, 'theoretically' it would be possible if you are making 230rwkw at 1.2 bar. Working on 10hp per pound of boost, it would require an extra 3lbs of boost to make 250rwkw. (maybe 4 lbs for addition drivetrain loss). The HKS 2530 is rated at 320ps by HKS. HKS rate their turbos at 1 bar and allow 10% error, ie rate them 10% low. This works true for my example above. If we allow 50kw loss for drive train, the engine must be making 280kw for 230rwkw @ 1.2 bar. Reducing boost by .2 bar (3lbs) = 30hp, or 22kw, would mean the engine is making 260kw or 354hp (pretty close to 320 +10% or 32hp) that it is rated at. So, as mentioned in 'theory' the turbo could flow that sort of power without too much problem at higher boost. The above calculations were based on 0.735hp/kw. I think it would take a very well set up car to be able to do it, as losses tend to be higher the higher the boost, not only do you get increase in driveline loss (minimal?) but you also start moving alot of components out of their comfort range (TB, plenum, ECU, AFM, manifold etc) I would really love to see if it is possible in the real world, not just on paper:D RS500, that would be a great comparison. I would be interesting too because the HKS2540 is touted by many to be one of HKS's worst turbos, and indeed on GTRs (in twin form) they appear to not do much until you wind in a heap of boost, unlike the 2530s which seem like they were made for the job. There doesnt seem to be too many people running them in single form. Very interesting. Try and get as much info on housing sizes, wheel trims etc if poss. it will be a really good comparison especially if they are similar in spec! Also, if there is anyone in SA running an externally gated GT30 powered SR20 or similar, I have a HKS 3037 with gt25 flange that is just begging to be compared on a dyno - perhaps this is one that HPI or ZOOM should get their teeth into, do a direct comparison between HKS turbos and closely matched garretts - would dispell any myths very quickly - benHPI??????

Hi Jase:) Good to see the archive system is working - this thread was nearly a year old until you revived it.

Same boat as Stang:(

Corky bell does mention a bit about ignition. Basically he states that as boost goes up, you need to pull igniton from the off boost maps. Goes on a bit about the differnet factors, such as AF ratios, temperature, octane, etc. If you like I will give the book to hippy when he picks up the wheels, and he can pass it on:) Hippy, you are most welcome to borrow when BOOSTD is finished, or there is a motoring book shop in the city on Gouger st ( I think), opposite the markets/cafes. Corky bell also writes a book called Maximum Boost, which is the same price as supercharged, and goes a bit more in to turbo specific applications. Well worth the $100.

And RB30 heads have been used on 8 sec cars. Just because it is capable doesnt mean its the best. With higher hp applications, the stock throttle body may be restricting airflow, and a larger TB would be useful. the stock plenum flows very well, but esp if you put on a larger TB, fitting a properly designed front facing plenum will help increase throttle response as the intercooler pipework is greatly reduced. Sub zero originally designed their plenum because they found that they got to a point where for every extra pound of boost they wound in they werent getting the expected rise in rwhp. Their findings state that when chasing higher hp, their plenums flowed better than stock - which is always a good thing. About the only time this becomes relevant (apart from reduced pipework) is when you are winding the boost up and not getting the expected gains at the wheels, ie, the stock plenum is creating restriction to air flow. As mentioned, you can get more power out of a stock plenum, but its efficiency is reduced.

RB25

Sorry I have no idea about the timing, I am pretty sure mine is set to stock (15deg), so I am not sure if they just used stock timing and adj fuel to suit. When it first went on it was running a little advanced, they wound it back as it was pinging pretty bad at about 6200rpm. Dont have any idea what is happening with the ign maps either. Sorry (keep meaning to take a closer look there) I dont have corky bells book with me at the moment (at work), but I will have a look to see what he says about ign, and post it up this arvo. If you want to borrow it, its a bit thicker than 21st century performance, likewise it definatley requires a few reads to absorb. I had a thought about the above post too, I am not sure what fuel they were recommending those ratios for (ron), he just stated to start there and add in as needed:) Martin did the tune.

Early is before about 9:30:) I dont have a jack unfortunatley, maybe BOOSTD has a spare one:p BOOSTD? Good luck with the sus, if its ok, you got a really good buy.

Well, hippy you know where I live, if you need them come and get them. I'll just take the farked tyre ones off BOOSTD when he has finished:) And you can keep mine seeing as they arent doing much except collecting dust. Would have to be tonight or earlyish sat or late sat as I am going to pick up my car and busy all arvo.

Dont know about wet, just dont take your car swimming:D - but if you check on the hand controller, it should have a setting for z32 (VG30?) - cant remember if it is in etc or settings?

BOOSTD, mine is currently tuned at 12.2:1 on boost. Done at tilbrooks at the beginning of this year, in the morning probably around 25deg C. In corky bell's book supercharged, it recommends around 13:1 for on boost (above 1psi on the boost guage), down to 14.7: at atmosphere (0 on the boost guage). Idling (20 inches of vacuum) he recommends around 15.5:1. He describes that cruise is at about 10-15 inches vacuum, but doesnt give a recommended ratio, he does however say that it is in between. He says that the on boost isnt the hard part, the part thorttle at different rpms/loads is 90% of the work and recommends looking at 500rpm increments. In the book 21st century performance, it describes lean (18:1) cruise mixurues, but this generally requires a good ecu and closed loop as slight increase in load will rapidly increase the requirement for fuel.

Ben is using a head gasket to drop the CR from 9:1, I have been recommended to go for around 8.6:1. This is how cars in japan have been making up to 300rwkw+ on stock internals. JMS have made 446rwkw on stock internals, so I would think that 250+ is no real challenge. You will need money though, and not be too shy with it:D Good turbo: dont skimp the turbo too much, if you want the best be prepared to pay for it, the more you spend here, the better the end result. I would recommend something like a HKS 2835 or similar, which can be had from Japan brand new for under 4K if you include duty and taxes. Second hand, they come up from time to time for probably half that but be careful, as you can only buy the entire cartridge if they need rebuilding. Inj and fuel pump: if you upgrade the injectors and pump, you dont need a pressrue reg, these just allow you to stretch injectors fitted. Alternatley, you could stretch the stock injectors this far (250rwkw) with fuel pressure reg and fuel pump only - they will be right on the edge, but it has been done. Clutch: I recommend twin plate, do it right the first time:) Z32 AFM, or if you are using map, the stocker will be gone. Catch can: as you wind boost up, more blow by will make it into the engine, which will increase the likelyhood of detonation:( Stock BOV could be having trouble if you have wound the boost up, so you might need to upgrade. A REALLY GOOD TUNE - pay good money for a good job. That should get you there A few other things to think about. A cold air partition if you are using a pod, with CAI is a very worthwhile addition. Decent brake pads to help you slow down quicker/ reduce fade. Pineapples to stop axle tramp. If you havent done suspension - give it some serious thought for driveability sake. Make sure you have good flow to your intercooler. A decent manifold can really improve spoolup time and decrease back pressure. Get some decent tyres, you'll need them:D After you have done the above, just throw on some cams, exh cam gear and you will be well into the plus side (assuming you went injectors rather than just fuel reg.)

Always handy:) Sorry I didnt include this in original post (oops) but also had a pipe from AFM to turbo as the stocker was sucking shut at around the 200 mark - might be worth your mate checking. I have been in this car (the owner took me for a bit of a high speed drift demo) it definately makes well over 200rwkw. I have been for a spin in an SR20 powered S13 with 360bhp (engine dynoed) that ran 12s - this RB20 (in cefiro) would have absolutely eaten it, so I dont think the figures were fudged. Perhaps the setup this guy was using is crap, because that just doesnt make sense that a 2535 would flow less than a stock rb25 turbo can???? It would be really easy to say someone only got xxx rwkw, but unles you know exactly what mods etc, it is no way to guage the actual potential of a turbo. Not argument there, I do agree completely. I was actually referring to garrett bb turbos which dont seem to do alot over 1 bar - as they start to move out of their efficiency range. I am not saying this is the absolute case with all garrett bb turbos, I am generallising based on what I have experienced, and the experiences of people contributing here. Good luck, I hope it goes well. I dont think I am as down on plain bearing turbos as perhaps sydneykid. Maybe its because he has been burnt along time ago when plain bearing turbos couldnt hold a candle to bb. I think technology has narrowed the gap greatly, but not overtaken yet. My comments were purely based on the belief that HKS turbos, when correctly matched to an engine, will walk over any garrett garden variety turbo that you buy. The technology that goes into these turbos is not available from anyone but HKS. I have seen comments on here from guys that have purchased new turbos from GCG, and it has taken them 3 goes to get it right, turbo keeps surging, not making good power. HKS have far more resources available to develope a turbo, it takes them months and months of dedicated research and design - unfortunately no one here in aust can match that. How many companies here have compressor housings made to their own design? the japanese have been making these turbos for use on these cars for many many years, probably before most people in australia have been anywhere near a turbo. Wasnt it HKS that originally came up with the whole turbo idea? Sydneykid, didnt you once comment that the best setup you have driven was with HKS 2530 turbos on a skyline - if my memory serves me correctly:D

Nice pick up. I think aftermarket mods are perhaps going to hold their value a bit more now that people buying from japan will only get stock cars - fingers crossed. What bits does your car have?

Pistons longevity is probably more related to tune than outright power. I would think that if you can make that sort of power with an RB25DET on stock (9:1 CR) internals, an RB30 with RB25 head and NA pistons would be just as easy to achieve as the CR is a bit lower, therefore less prone to detonation - which is the real enemy of the pistons, not power.

Nice B-man, should go pretty hard:) looks alot like a GT3540? Very nice on a 3L I would imagine.

:uh-huh:

Jase, James has a hoist, and I have had stuff like clutch replaced, exhaust changed - so no probs there I would say. He actually has alot of suspension bits coming in this container, including hicas lock bars (one has my name on it) and coilovers, which arrives on friday. Best you give him a call or pay him a visit. He's pretty helpful guy, doesnt mind offering free advice and spending the time to go through what you need. Probably best not try on Friday or Sat though as I would say he will be really busy getting stuff from the warf to the shop:)