sonicii

hmm.. I'm not convinced there will be too many buyers duped into paying extra by a few badges, it won't take much research to discover they are exactly the same as the V35 Skylines out there selling for less. You might get couple of buyers with more money than brains.. but they are going to be fairly rare. I also don't think Nissan are going to do very well selling the G37 locally for that sort of money unless the import of the V36 is banned.. you can pick up a 1 year old V36 with less than 10,000km for less than half that figure

You are right, it really depends on personal taste. In my opinion, I don't really see the point of removing the Nissan badges and fitting Infiniti badges. I guess it reminds me too much of the people that think Chevrolet badges look good on their Australian built Commodores. But then again I don't like the look of debadged cars either.. The one advantage I can see with debadging is you don't need to worry about some loser with a screwdriver stealing you badges and damaging the panels. Just do a google images search, there will be plenty of G35s on there with infiniti badges, and plenty of debadged G35s and V35s for you to check out, then just go with whatever you like the best.

Glad you went into a bit more detail.. as the next question is usually 'why are they illegal'..

If you remove the rear badges, it should just need a clean and polish, and you shouldn't notice where they were, unless your car has seen a lot of sun.. As for the headlights, I think iPEX is an american company, so these headlights may be desiged for a LHD car, which will make them illegal to use on a RHD car here.

I can't see why turbo charging a DD motor would be the different. Finding higher capacity DD injectors might be the only hurdle, assuming the factory injectors can't keep up.

I am assuming he means 180KW at the flywheel, not at the wheels, which is close to VQ30DD territory. But to do that with a VQ25DD, you are looking at a 20% power increase, which is going to be difficult to do with NA and on an engine with very minimal 'bolt on' options available. Especially considering the DD engines have quite good power and torque figures for their capacities.

Steering wheel controls will depend on the new HU. You can get the Metra facias from USA for considerably less, but I have heard they are fairly cheaply made and the finish may not be very good. Other than that, you should be able to order the genuine facia from USA, you may save yourself around A$100, but you would have to wait for it, and it may be a problem if you have any issues with it..

Sorry, my mistake.. I wasn't comparing the fronts to rears, I was comparing the OP's rear tyre size option. He mentioned he will be using a 245/35R19 on the fronts, but was tosing up between a 275/30 or a 275/35 on the rear, between which there is a 27mm diameter difference.

thanks. The FSM isn't too clear on this. (or I'm not looking in the right place.)

?? Even using the calculator you shared, it gives a diameter difference of 1.1in, which is about 27mm.

the Speedo sensor is in the transmission, so the size of the driven wheels only will impact your Speedo, in a RWD car, this is just the rear wheels. The front wheel size won't affect the Speedo, but may impact the VDC if they are too different to the rears. hope this makes sense.

2 points. first. the difference in tyre sidewall height between a 275/30 and a 275/35 is just under 14mm (82.5mm vs 96.25mm) second, the difference will affect your speedo accuracy. The 275/30R19s will be the closest diameter to your original tyres, so will impact the least on your speedo. Not sure how different you can go before the VDC gets too upset.. the V35 coupe 18s are different tyre size front/rear, so I guess they don't need to be exactly the same diameter.

Probably just need a clutch switch in addition to the brake switch. Other than that, it should be the same.

I like the idea of adjusting the gain / response of the unit as well as a lot of other options, maybe Chris's unit can do this too?? But I can also understand why some people would just like a plug and play system. I like to be able to adjust as much as can to get it working exactly how I like it. I have driven very few cars that have a good factory cruise control system. My old J30 was probably the worst. I always wished I could wind up the gain on that one. But most are too slow to respond to speed changes. I'm very grateful commsman is willing to sell these for cost, when he could probably easily add an extra $100 or so for his trouble! Kudos mate!

I probably should qualify that by adding - if the engine is running at normal temperature, and the coolant gauge is in the normal position - then you lose all the coolant while driving (eg blown lower radiator hose), the coolant gauge will drop,not go up. Have had this happen once to myself, and has been confirmed by others who have had the same occur. Just in case someone though I meant starting a cold engine without coolant.

Nope. A coolant temp gauge goes down.. if you have a head temp sensor, that will go up as the engine overheats.

Um.. nope.. water under pressure boils at a higher temperature, the pressure doesn't keep the water cooler, it increses it's boiling temperature, so you could have steam at 101deg C in an open system, and it will be cooler than water at 110 deg C in a pressurised system. Add to that.. steam is not necessilary hotter than the water it just boiled off, unless there is an additional energy source to heat the steam directly. Also, steam doesn't conduct heat anywhere near as well as water, so even if there is steam at 101degC surrounding the temp gauge, it is still likely to read below that temp. if you have ever had a cooling system leak on a car, you will find the temp gauge drops once the coolant falls below the temp sensor, even though the engine is overheating and boiling the remaining coolant.

Yes, but when you lose coolant, the first place you will get air is in the top of the radiator as most cars are designed for this to the be the highest point. If the boiling coolant doesn't contact the radiator cap, the gauge in the cap will read low. Just like the normal coolant temp sensor will read low when you lose enough coolant for it to be surrounded with air instead of cooant.

True.. and if you are low on water, this gauge will probably read low too.

I think most states have the same conditions on P's. I know Qld and Vic do anyway. You might also struggle to get a licence issued in a state that you don't have a residential address.

If you have access to someone with a datascan tool, get them to check the coolant temperature with it, if it is around 85-90 deg C, then I wouldn't worry about it. Especiallly if it doesn't seem to go up and down when driving hard, or climbing hills

no idea if this is a coupe? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-V35-350gt-Wrecking-Not-Gtr-/220902568538?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item336ed1b25a

It is probably written by someone at carsales that doesn't really have a clue. CVTs don't have a fixed number of 'speeds'. If I were you I would be keeping it unless you really want something else. It's not the best time to be selling a car, and especially one that isn't commonly known.

Does carsales let you modify the 'vehicle details' section? As it says '4dr 4seat', but it has 5seats. It also isn't an 8sp auto, it's a CVT.. (unless you are trying to disguise that.)

Ignoring the potential failures, CVTs are great, I would have one any day over a standard auto. What frightens people are the abudance of stories of failures and the insane cost of repair/replacement. The main reason for the cost is the CVT in the V35 is quite unique.. I don't think there are any other toroidal roller CVTs out there, so Nissan can charge whatever they like for parts.. All CVTs 'should' be cheaper to repair/replace, as they have far less components and are much simpler than a standard auto. However their rarity is keeping prices sky high.