sonicii

If it is starting then shutting down, it could be a fuel pump.. but is going to next to impossible to diagnose over the internet with a basic description.

Yeah, that might be more 'do-able', although it is still 2 days drive (or one very big day) each way. Whenever I travel to Brisbane, I usually fly.. I haven't driven to brisbane for a while now.. I will keep an eye out for when something is planned and see what I can manage.

Thanks, but I was really just refering to the distance, not the timeframe you gave.. As much as I would like to attend, I don't think I can justify the cost and time to get there, and I don't think there are really enough owners up this way to organise anything locally.

Townsville, North Queensland.

This is one of the few times it sucks to live in a small-ish town about 3-4 days drive away.

Yes, and it is a buyers market.. if you want a quick sale, you really need to under value it to shift it. Sales are slow and not many people know what a V35 is, so that makes it even harder. I purchased my 2005 350gt 6sp Sedan, Silver with about 72,000km for $19K back in August. It is also a non-premium, but it has been optioned with just about all the premium features except the Bose stereo. And it had also been for sale for a while before I bought it.

I have noticed a lot of insurance companies only list the GT8 for the 4dr, despite the fact the sedan was available in a normal Auto and the 6sp manual, as well as 3 different engine sizes. GT8 just means it has the CVT and certainly does NOT mean 4dr.. although the GT8 was only available in the 4dr. As for your car... what year is it and what spec is it (premium)? from the pic in your sig I am guessing it is a <2004? Black and 6sp should push the value up compared to something like a silver auto. 6sp sedans are fairly rare on their own. If it is a 2004 non-premium and is in very good condition, I would guess about $18K, if you can find a buyer.. they are a bit hard to find at the moment!

I would think it would be 17% transmittance (light penetration), I doubt you would even notice 83% transmittance.

I guess it must just be a 'recommendation' as it say that the front windows must have 70% transmittance, unless the state/territory laws allow less. I know in Queensland you can have all windows except the front windscreen tinted to T35, which is 35% transmittance. So maybe there is national guidelines, but the individual states can still make up their own mind?? Weird.. makes you wonder why they bother with a NCOP. I haven't even seen a T70 tint.. I know 50% is reasonably common.

As for tinting, I think 35% is the lowest you can go. Tinters used to put a small label between the glass and tint stating the tint figures, but they don't seem to do that anymore. I just carry around the warranty card/invoice in the glove box, showing the tint type. If the cops believe that it is below legal, the last thing you want to do is get into a school yard 'yes it is, no it isn't' arguement with them.. Just play dumb, say the tint shop told you it is legal and show them the warranty card/invoice. But since yours is 20%, maybe just tell them you thought it was 35%. The last thing you want to do is challenge the authority of a police man, so it is probably better to suggest you though it was legal, without telling them they are wrong. But at the end of the day, if it is 20% and you get busted for it, you will just have to wear it.. Some of the mobile roadside inspection stations do have a tester they can use to check the transparency of the window/tint.

^^ although it is possible to cancel a bank cheque, the scammer would need to be very dumb. The bank requires ID to issue a cheque, the cheque would be in your name, and you would have their signature on your copy of the transfer of rego forms. And with you holding the cheque in your hands, it would be more than enough evidence to have them charged with fraud, a criminal offence, so the police would track them down. The bank would likely forward the secured funds to you once the case is proven, and the car would likely be confiscated under the proceeds of crime act, and auctioned off. If you were really lucky, you may even be able to buy it back cheap from the auctions. a personal cheque would be a different story, and I wouldn't let the car go until it clears.

page6 does not refute my argument, under the multi-viscosity oil section it specifies oil with such designation has undergone both sets of tests, the low temp test and the high temp tests. Page 5 shows the low temp tests and specifies how the 1st number is obtained, it is a measure of a specific viscosity, but they adjust the temperature of the oil to obtain a low temp pumping viscosity of 60,000cP. The first number specifies the temperature that viscosity is achieved (As well as matching other criteria). The 2nd number is a straight viscosity measurement at 100degC (although must also match 150degC viscosities). So yes, the first number is a measurement of viscosity at low temp, but it is a measurement of what temperature a specific viscosity is achieved, not a measure of viscosity at a fixed low temperature. So as I said before, a oil with a lower xxW number will most likely have a lower viscosity at a specific low temperature (0degC for example), but that is not what the number actually means.

http://www.zddplus.com/TechBrief13%20-%20Oil%20Viscosity.pdf

As a general rule, a lower number will generally mean a thiner oil at low temp, but that is not actually what the first number specifies. It actually specifies a temperature, not a viscosity. It is the coldest pour point of the oil. The temperature at which the oil becomes so thick it, Can't be Poured/pumped.

Maybe we are just confusing terms? In my understanding when oil get so hot it starts to break down (deteriorate), it means the oil is failing, it damages the oil and can cause engine damage. I would expect this would be somewhere beyond 200degC.. I am assuming you just mean the oil thins as he heats up? the oil viscosity will continue to reduce as the oil heats beyond 100degC, but I wouldn't classify that as 'deteriorating'.

?? the 2nd number is a indicator of viscosity at 100degC, it has nothing to do with the temperature oil 'breaks down'.

The factory head unit does NOT have a dvd player or a screen, therfore someone has fitted this Head Unit aftermarket..

http://www.whiteline.com.au/do_segue4.php?make=Nissan&model=Skyline&model_final=SKYLINE+V35+RWD&vehicle=10%2F03%2F2007 You can order online, or any suspension shop, or good auto shop should be able to order them for you

Yep.. there was a few stories from the early 2000s when Nissan released the Maxima CVT in USA, and had some mechanics change the fluid with regular Dexron.. as you can imagine a $$$$ repair bill for the mechanic.. BTW, nice info above. Thanks for sharing. Hopefully it sorts our the issues you are having with your CVT.

Whoever is telling you this should have their arse kicked.. as you probably know the NS-2 fluid is for the extronic CVT used in the Maxima/Murano which use a steel belt and variable size pully setup. The toroidal roller setup in the extroid is totally different and needs a totally different fluid. A lot of places probably think the only CVT that Nissan do is the extronic, and therefore assume the V35 is an extronic CVT. - probably a good idea to NEVER take you V35 to anyone who makes these sort of assumptions.

besides the obvious difference (sedan/wagon), the 300gt uses a 3.0L direct injected engine, if you want to do some tuning/power increse down the track, you are probably best off to avoid this model, as aftermarket tuning options are very sparce. If you want to go with the V35, you would be better off looking for a 350gt, more power out of the box, and a lot more 'power up' options. The 2.5L M35 is obviously already turbo charged, so 'power up' options would be even easier than a 350gt. If you just want to do some mild tuning, the 350gt or the M35 will be suitable. Both will be fine as a daily, unless you go nuts with mods. So it probably comes down to 'do you want an AWD wagon, or a RWD sedan'??

I though the original tyres are 215/55-17? if so a 235/50-17 will be the closest overall diameter. A 235/45-17 tyre will put your speedo and odo out by about 4%

The factory AC controls are all integrated into the same single circuit board behind the facia. the double DIN AC controls only come with the double DIN facia units, either Metra kit of the Nissan kit. I believe there is someone who has cut the factory board, but had to wire up a 'birds nest' of cables to get it working. I believe the Metra kit is made in USA, but the Nissan kit is made in Japan, perhaps that is why the G35driver guys refer to it as a ‘JDM” unit. The Metra kit is cheaper, but have heard the fit and colour are poor. I guess you may be able to save some $$ by getting your factory facia professionally cut and buy the Metra kit just to get the AC controls.

^^ Agreed, 10W-X won't be a problem for almost anywhere in Aust. Personally I would still stick with 5W30, just because Nissan recommend this weight of oil for all temperature ranges, and just suggests heavier oil 'may' be used in warmer climates. Japan can get some quite hot summers, so it is not like they haven't allowed for warm climates with their recommendations.

Not exactly.. the 2nd number does specify the viscosity at 100degC, but the first number specifies the coldest pour point of the oil, basically the temperature the oil becomes so think, it can no longer be pumped. Generally the lower the pour point temperature the thinner the oil will be at 'cold engine startup' temperatures, but this isn't actually what the ?W is specifying.