sonicii

^^ I don't think that applies to the NEO RB engines..

I have a G35 head unit which plays MP3 CDs, and doesn't need the band expander for the radio.. You just need one from the same series (ser1 or 2), and since you have a premium model, you will need a bose g35 unit..

I was caught with a J31 maxima remote (which looks identical to the pic in the above ebay item). It was on ebay and came from hong kong and the seller told me it will be fine for an Australian Maxima, but when it arrived, I couldn't get it to work. I cracked it open and found the crystal was something like 415Mhz, and my original remote was around 385Mhz. Fortunatly the seller was happy to refund. If I were you I would get a new one from Japan, or a 2nd hand one from a wrecker (from a V35)

if you have a coupe.. these are on ebay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-V35-350GT-G35-Genuine-Factory-Headlight-LEFT-/270953236988?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f161249fc

Are you sure it works with a V35? Different parts of the world use different frequencies for their car remotes.

should be ok for a basic test.. it will tell you if your alternator is actually working. The real tests done at a workshop usually do a discharge test on the battery, but since you have a new battery, you won't need this done.

Ok.. maybe there are a few old tech alternators around.. the Alternator from my old R31 Skyline (made 25 years ago), was fully electronic.. I had a block diagram of the regulator module around somewhere, and I know it does trigger a battery light with warn brushes, because I sold it to a friend and helped him fix it a few years later.. I would have thought they would have all gone that way by now..

Not exactly, maybe 30 years ago, but these days alternators generally use electronic regulators. These regulators have their own +12V supply (from the battery) and Gnd and can drive the battery light/LED separatly and can trigger the light even if the brushes wear out and fail to make contact. However a failed regulator and a few other faults can cause no or reduced alternator output and not trigger a battery light.

^^ The alternator's regulator can fail and not show a 'battery' light on the dash.. I have had 2 alternators fail like that.. I have also had a 1 diode short in the diode pack, which allowed it to generate enough power so a battery light didn't show, but not enough to charge the battery.. made a horrible howl though.. In the OPs case, I think the alternator will be ok, you can check it yourself if you have a multimeter, or just take it to a one of the battery outlets.. many of them will do a free test.

^^ as they said, replace the battery, and get the alternator checked.. The symptoms don't necessarily mean your alternator is dead, the battery can fail and not accept a charge from a good alternator which would result in the same symptoms you are seeing. In fact, since you were able to drive for 20mins with no issues after the first jump start, suggests your alternator may be ok.. The guy who tried to tell you it is a broken timing belt, has no idea.. espeically given your car doesn't have a timing belt..

I am surprised they were able to chip the side window glass. Tempered glass is quite hard to damage or break, and usually if you do manage to chip it, the whole window shatters. I have never tried the DIY window repair, but as you say, it is worth a try, I doubt you could do any damage, the worst is likely the repair won't take, and fall out, it also may not be as clean/invisible as it is with laminated glass. As for replacements, I would be looking at some of the wreckers that specialise in Nissan or import vehicles.. I am sure someone on here will jump in and give you a few options soon.

The Nissan units. like this one. http://www.conceptzperformance.com/Cart/description.php?II=3413&Car_Type=G35&UID=20120403142840123.211.29.49 or contact Chris, he can also source them for you.

^^ CVT was only available on the 350GT. I would say it sounds more like an electronic/TCU issue causing it to select 3rd instead of 1st from a standing start. probably best to start by getting the TCU codes read.

^^ agreed, you could probably buy the real double din facia/ac conrols, and a basic double din HU for that money. However, as to the OP's original question.. yes, it should work ok.

^^ agreed.. I don't think the cover is separate.. it's all part of the airbag.

Tyre sidewall height of a 235/45 is 105.75mm. The sidewall height of a 235/40 is 94mm. Overall tyre diameter changes by 23.5mm but radius only differs by 11.75mm (axel to tyre edge) which is the amount the axel will be closer to the road.

Actually only about 11-12mm but still lower than stock.

Usually resetting is necessary on any windows that have the 'auto' up/down feature.. so only the drivers side should need resetting..

Thanks.. I have been getting sick of cleaning small leaves out of the brake/clutch master cylinder area.

I thought that stuff was only designed for interior parts? It might not cope too well with the weather. There is always vinal wrap, but I think that looks hideous too..

Because??? Many people have done this and recommend it.. lowers by about 25mm without sacrificing too much ride quality.

I rarely scrape in a stock sedan.. with the exception the front bar on gutters or those 'bump stops' when parking.. the front of the car is quite low, but since the front wheels are so far forward it is rarely an issue on driveways or speed bumps. Currently looking for a set of 350Z springs and shocks.. that might make scraping more of an issue...

Should be a straight bulb swap, as long as they are D2R..

^^ yep, did those tests too on my J30 before and after installing a grounding kit, couldn't notice any difference on the signals from the CAS, AFM (MAF), Speed sensor, TPS, or on the Transmission Revolution sensor. But my factory grounds were clean and in good shape. Although I used a Fluke Scopemeter.. haven't seen a working CRO in a few years now. (unless you are using the term generically.. not really meaning Cathode Ray..). I guess Nissan could have gone backwards with their wiring quality over the last 15+ years.. but as vimana said, sensors don't need anything near the size of grounds compared to those requried by high current devices like starters, AC compressor clutches and ignition coils, and they all seem to work ok.

^^ that is true for cars that only have 1 cam/crank sensor.