sonicii

Agreed.. UK should ditch imperial, especially since the rest of europe use metric. I can't imagine the USA ever admitting that their system is inferior (even if it is), so they will probably never change.. I am glad Canada didn't blindly follow the USA though! Tyre size measurements still amuse me.. width measured in mm, rim size measured in inches, and sidewall heigh measuered as a percentage of width.. who came up with that system????

poly is harder than rubber, so it won't flex as much. Which can be good as it reduces slight geometry changes under load (heavy cornering). The down side is the bushes absorb less vibration and impact, which means it is transmitted through to the body of the car. Personally I would use poly on non-load bearing items, like sway bar bushes, but use rubber bushes on most other items. That said, plenty of people have used poly everywhere and seem to be happy with it. Have a look on some of the USA sites. Energy Suspension make a lot of poly bushes for the G35/350Z for considerably cheaper prices. Whiteline here in Aust, also do a lot of poly bushes for the 350Z. Also look at some nissan/infiniti supplies in USA for factory items as they tend to be a lot cheaper than local dealer prices. Provided you can wait for it to arrive.

There seems to be too many ways of measuring fuel economy.. UK and USA use MPG, but a gallon is a different amount in UK and USA. Most of Asia use km/L (thus the JDM cars show this). Europe, Canada and Aust (and NZ) use L/100km.. or you can use the Norway/Sweden figure of L/mil (a mil being approx 10km)

^^ S1 or S2? they changed in late 2004.

Works on my 05 series 2. Maybe it is a S2 feature? Any S1 owners have this feature?

With that many voltage related issues with different components, I would be checking the factory grounding points for corrosion or damaged cables.

^^ can do.. Stickers on the outside are obviously ok..

I would think the odometer method would be more accurate, provided you use most of the tank between fills. If you are only using 1/4 of a tank then refilling, then the different 'full cut out' points on each bowser can throw out the figure. Maybe check your odometer with a GPS or something (one that can do distance calculations).

^^ I guess you must have fixed a leak or something when you installed you Z tube, because there is no way it alone can impact your fuel economy.

I get around 11.5L/100km in my 6MT, all city driving (not peak hour), and the occasional heavy right foot. Which is about the same as the OP is getting with a lot of highway driving.. so I would say it sounds a bit high.. I haven't taken it on a highway run yet.

all oils contain manufacturer additives, and they spend plenty of $$ to get them right. I have an issue with 'over the counter' additives which you 'add' to existing oil. (I called them 'customer' additives in my previous post). with claims they can magically make the oil better than the manufacturer could.. Also, not saying the Nulon gear oils aren't good.. just that I don't trust Nulon due to some of the claims they have made

I would steer clear of 'customer' additives for any oil.. gear oil, engine oil, transmission fluid, etc.. Stick with a good quality oil on it's own. The fact nulon promote these things is the main reason I don't trust their oils.

I highly doubt that, especially considering it isn't one of the oil weights that Nissan recommend. Personally I would be getting the OEM Nissan oil, or buying a qualtiy oil GL4 oil that matches the below specs. From the G35 FSM - Genuine NISSAN Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) HQ Multi 75W-85 or API GL-4, Viscosity SAE 75W-85 or 75W-90

I have never really understood how they can do a GL4/5 oil. GL4 and GL5 are different oils for different applications. GL5 is an EP Hypoid oil suitable for the high pressure 'sliding' of the pinion gear in most differentials, it is made to remain in place and provide a 'barrier' even under extreme pressures. However, this function is bad for a transmission where a GL4 oil is required, it can hinder the synchro operation an cause difficult gear changes. I have also heard of GL5 oil damaging bearings in transmissions which specify GL4 oil, due to the same function.

You will need to know the offset too..

I already PMed him and asked the same question.. he wants a local pickup.

I know Nissan uses different frequencies for the remotes here vs asia.. didn't know there was a difference with the immobiliser key too...

Normally the keys are supplied with an existing unique code burnt into the chip, the car's immobiliser needs to be programmed to accept this code. I purchased a chipped key for my J31 from hong kong, $25 for the key (free postage), about $10 to get it cut and $33 for nissan to program NATS to accept it. (which also cleared the old lost key) much cheaper than the $250+ that Nissan wanted to charge to do the same thing.

Is that true with subaru too? I am fairly sure a Nissan dealer can reprogram a new chip to NATS without needing an existing coded chip?? After all, when they enter the program mode, it erases all existing chips anyway.

I agree with Nightcrawler. If you still had a working key, most good locksmiths can cut a new key and clone the immobiliser chip. But without a key or a chip, you are probably left with getting ripped of by the dealer.. assuming the liberty's have a chip in the key head.. Lucky it isn't a toyota.. some of them need to have the whole immobiliser system replaced if you don't have at least 1 working key on hand.

^^ does that still work?? I thought resetting the ECU by disconnecting the power was something that hasn't worked since the mid 1990s? everything is stored in flashRAM now isn't it?

I recall there was an issue with the metal frame around the seat controls causing damage to the leather too. I get the impression Nissan designed the seat frames for fabric, and then decided to go with leather at a later date without modifying the seat frame to suit..

there are some threads that show some real gains with the spacer, which you should still realise with a stock exhaust. z tube and pop charger are more about the sound.. they don't do much for performance. No tune is required for these mods.

Depends on what you are after. if you want a high performance AWD car, with scope for some good power gains without needing to do major internal engine work (unless you want to go silly), then the GT-R is the better option by far. there are heaps of aftermarket options out there, plenty of people who have been down the track of modifying a GT-R and able to offer advice, and you shouldn't have too much trouble finding someone who knows how to tune it for you. On the other hand, if you want to keep your comfortable daily cruiser, but just want a bit more 'stick', then go the FI route on your V35, just be aware, even mild boots is going to cost you a premium to do it properly.

NRMA insured mine for $24k, even though I only brought it for $19k.. I did tell them my purchase price.. $760 per year.. 37yr with clean license and accident history.