sonicii

I would suggest you only go as big as you actually need with injectors. If you only need 500cc.. then just get 500cc. The only positive with running anything larger is they will cope with more demand down the track, everything else is a negative, poor economy, poor idle, etc.. under light engine load (which is going to be the majority of the operating conditions), it will be a bit like the ECU trying to measure out exactly 5.25ml of fuel using only a 10L bucket..

Depends on how much boost you want to run, low boost with 98 RON fuel and you should be ok. (assuming stock injectors can keep up.) If you want to start running higher boost, then you need reduce your engine compression ratio.. doesn't matter what you do with the timing, if cylinder pressures get too high for the fuel you run, you will get detonation, which will quickly destroy your engine.

Compared to what? it's lighter than almost any current V8 powered car out there, about 100kg heavier than a 350Z. It's even less than 100kg heavier than the current WRX sedan.. Which isn't too bad considering it is a larger car.

hmm.. weird.. if Qld Transport (or whatever they are called now) can't even get it right between forms.. what hope do we have?

^^ no it isn't.. the limit is 200kw for our weight vehicle. The police probably didn't bother to check..

As I mentioned when replying to the PM you sent.. it is impossible to diagnose over the internet.. the only way is to have the codes read by a mechanic with a scan tool, or a nissan dealer. That will tell you which sensor/item has triggered the engine warning light. People have experienced these symptoms before, but the engine light is a general 'fault' indicator triggered by a variety of faults.

Wait.. Engine light or Oil light? your First post said Oil light?

2 possibilities. 1. your oil pump has failed. 2. Your oil pressure sensor has failed. If you are still driving the car, I would expect the engine to be making some horrible noises if the pump has failed, so it may just be a pressure sensor. However, I would NOT drive the car or start the engine again until you can have it checked, as running the engine with a failed oil pump will cause significant engine damage.

Not sure about all states, but in Queensland I am fairly sure they are 2 separate units, red light cameras are just that, no speed camera. Fixed speed cameras tend to be on sections of road where people often speed, not generally on interesections. Add to that the many mobile speed cameras around.

Exhaust heat shields?

also, the V37 doesn't go on sale until 2013.... he has a V36..

VQ37.. no such thing as a VG37.. of course it has a cam.. the VQ37HR (like the VQ35HR) uses electromagnetic actuation for the exhaust cam VVT (hydraulic actuation for intake), but that is just the VVT control.. it still has a cam to actually open the valves.

I think it actually cranks with the immobiliser, it just doesn't fire.

This is probably a dumb question.. but you are pressing the clutch when you try to start? I'm not in brisbane, so I can't make any recommendations for auto electricians. Maybe Chris can.

If it doesn't even turn over, it could be a transmission N/P switch if it is an auto, or a clutch switch if it is a 6MT. Assuming it isn't a battery of course..

I am guessing the brake pads are for an 03-05 non-brembo series1? It seems a different part number is listed for the 05-06 series2 models..

^^ I think that is the idea of the coupe springs in the rear. The 350Z springs give a level drop in reference to the road, but looks uneven due to the different wheel arch gap, and since I have staggered tyres, I might go down the z/coupe combo route if I can ever find springs for a reasonable price.

Looks good.. thanks for the pic. I would prefer to cut the plastic rather than the steel.

Depends on a lot of things.. I have seen a silver set of 4 sell for sub $1k on ebay (without tyres), so if you are in a rush to sell, you might be looking at a figure like this.. If you can afford to wait, you might get more. It really just depends on how much someone wants them.. and how much they are willing to pay. I tend agree with n15m0, the fact they are black, may cut down your customer base quite a bit.

Ok, thanks guys.. i will see what the seller comes back with and have another look at it on the weeked (or maybe on ANZAC day).

Has anyone here fitted one of these? I ordered one and it arrived last week, but there are no brackets on the car to clip the cover on to. The battery side has several protrusions from the firewall plastic trim to clip the cover on to, as well as a plastic bracket on the engine side of the battery well. There is none of this on the brake/clutch master cylinder side. I have emailed the seller, but I am guessing I will need to make up these brackets myself somehow??

Quick question in regard to lowering a Sedan, g35driver recommends using 350z springs on the front and coupe springs on the rear, this apparently gives a simlar gap between the guard and the tyre and makes it look even, also they have the same spring rate as the factory sedan springs so the ride won't be harsh. Are there any sedan owners on here who have gone down this track? or are the spring heights different for JDM coupes, and/or Aust Delivered 350Z?

factory 350z springs will lower a v35 sedan about 25mm, and a coupe about 12mm, so you will be looking at another 25mm on top of that.

The 'problem' the thread is referring to was the loss of performance by the intake getting clogged with oil and soot, this 'loss of performance' doesn't occur on non-DD engines, and the VQ25DET and VQ37HR are not DD engines.. However, the intake plennum does still get dirty.

The VQ25DET and VQ37HR are not direct injected engines, so they won't suffer this issue, however, the intake can still get a bit grotty and a clean won't hurt.