sonicii

Looks like those scratches are through the paint, so no amount of polishing or buffing will get them out, it will need a respray. It is hard to tell from the pics, but there appears to be some dints also, which will require panel beating. This cost will depend very much on your paint, as this is usually the biggest component on the final bill. It appears you have a darker colour, which will mean they should be able to just respray the one door. Some lighter colours (especially silver), sometimes require the whole side of the car to be resprayed to make it look right, as the finish of the base coat can make a panel appear darker or lighter.

I have Khumo KU19s on the rear of mine. I can't really compare them to anything except the front tyres, I bought them because they were $185 per tyre, plus fitting. which was cheaper than most of the 'no-name' brands. They have been good so far, but they have only done about 1000km, far too soon to give a good opinion. Unlike the tyres on the front, which are noisy!! I think they are the original Japan tyres (which I know shouldn't be used, but they where on it when I brought the car and it passed a roadworthy!), they are Yokohama dB euro. Either it's noisy tyres, or I have a bad wheel bearing, but the noise seems to go away over about 50km/h, which doesn't usually indicate a bearing!..

Mine has the cable on the back of the rear view mirror, but I don't have the intelligent key?? Could it also be used for the normal lock/unlock remote?

a 2-3 second delay is probably more the TCU delaying the shift rather than the transmission internals, if so, a shift kit won't fix it.

According to the G35 FSM, the speed signal for the stereo should be approx 55hz at 40km/h

did I miss something, don't think he said anything about the auto? but that said, I owned an auto for 13 years, it is bliss to be driving a manual again..

the V series skylines do not run an RB engine, you might be better off posting in the maintenance/modification section.

yeah, I thought that might be the case. I was going to check the pin on the back of the Speedo cluster too see if there is a speed output that complies with what the g35 FSM shows. If it does, I will try adding the wire for the HU.

a good quality aftermarket ecu with a custom tune will give some gains. But it is one of the poorest 'bang for you buck' performance mods, especially if you have no other mods. You would be best off starting with intake and exhaust. After you get your injectors sorted.

Chris - Yes, it is a PDF Poke - that is correct, you must remove the band expander when fitting the US unit, they use the same radio frequency range as we do. If you leave it installed, you won't be able to receive most of the radio stations. The G35 units also have speed sensitive volume, but that doesn't seem to work on mine, I am guessing the V35 doesn't have the speed signal wire connected from the speedo cluster to the HU, if I have enough time on my hands, I might see if I can connect it. (any advise Chris?)

yes, I can't see any issues with a straight Bose-Bose swap. Just make sure you get one from the same series as the face plate needs to be swapped too. If you have navi,, it would be easier if you get a HU from a G35 with navi. If you have a FM band expander installed for the radio, you will need to remove that too when fitting a G35 HU

^ what he said. The 300gt injectors are totally different to 350gt injectors, as the vq30dd is direct injected. The vq35de is not. that said, there is no performance benefit at all with fitting larger injectors. In fact it will be detrimental. The only time you would need higher capacity injectors is if your current injectors can't supply enough fuel due to other mods, like turbo/supercharging.

Thanks Chris. So changing the jumper is a necessity if you want to put a standard head unit into a bose setup, not just for the output level but to remote power-on the amp. I found leaving it in the 'bose' position seems to work quite well for my setup, I guess if I had some music recorded at low level it might be an issue, but for everything i have played so far, I wouldn't want to run it any harder than the current full volume setting, and if I ever want to add an amp, the remote power will be available. I have the FSM for the PP2665DA which is the Bose USDM unit for the 05-06 G35.

Update - Ok, if anyone is interested, the system seems to perform ok without chaning the 'jumper' to increse the output by 6db. However, if anyone ever needs to go the other way and fit a non-bose head unit to a Bose system, you will probably need to reduce the output level with this jumper. I have attached a pic which should be fairly self explainatory. You will need skills with removing/soldering surface mount components. I would NOT suggest you try it if you don't have these skills, as you can make a big mess of the board. The board in the picture is from my JDM non-bose head unit, so it is currently in the 'non-bose' mode with incresed output gain. There are also 2 other 'jumpers' which are described as 'Area1' and 'Area2', I am not sure exactly what these do, taking a wild guess, maybe it switches the radio frequency range?? If anyone would like to experiment, let us know what you find. Again the picture is of my JDM head unit, so I would guess the area is set to Japan. The Clarion SM has R121 in the 'off' position. The Jumpers are in fact 47Kohm surface mount resistors, and pull the inputs of the IC high or low.

No worries.. I am fairly happy with it as is.. I cranked it up to full volume yesterday, it was quite loud and the speakers started to distort. Edit - Just had a quick look at the datasheet for the TDA8593. The line driver mode is only 6dB down from normal mode (20dB gain vs 26dB gain), so it is only -6dB, which could explain why it wasn't that noticable.

If they are for JDM cars, they should be fine.

Could that jumper possibly be on the output board, and therefore was swapped? As the volume level is currently the same as my original non-bose HU. A 20dB cut is significant, so I am sure it would be very obvious.

Where are you sourcing them? If they are made for a LHD car, they won't be legal in Aust.

I have attached 3 pics, in each the left item is from the non-bose HU and the right is from the G35 Bose HU The most obvious difference in the 2nd pic is the lack of the MD unit in the G35 HU, I don't believe this can be swapped into the G35 HU, for a start the ribbon connector from the MD deck is missing on the main board in the G35 HU, and there is no MD button on the G35 face panel. The 3rd pic shows the 2 output boards. You can see there are some differences in components, mainly the connector for the heat sink fan (far left), but there are also several differences on the right side of the board. I initially assumed there may be some audio processing on the Bose unit, but now I am also thinking it may be for satellite radio and/or the telephone I/F that came on some G35s.

series2, 2005 350gt sedan. the head unit came from a series2 g35. I have some pics of the heatsinks and output boards if anyone is interested.

yes, that's correct. You just need the heatsink and output connector board (to power the heat sink fan) from a non-Bose HU.

I have just completed fitting a factory Bose head unit from a G35 to my non-Bose V35 Sedan. Found out a few interesting things. This post could be long, so I will just start with a summary, and if you are interested, you can read on. Not sure if anyone has done this, or would ever want to.. - Bose head unit contains the same output stage as a non-Bose, and therefore can power speakers directly (without an amp) - G35 MP3 head unit fits and works fine in a V35. Firstly, I have only had my V35 for a few weeks, and I ignorantly assumed I had a premium and therefore a Bose stereo system. The car has dual zone CC aircon, reclining rear seats and steering wheel controls, so I thought that meant it was premium. I wanted to have MP3 playback capability, and after investigating the iPod I/F and double DIN facia, I was a little scared with the price. My previous car just had a cd player that could play MP3 CDs, and that is all I really wanted. After finding out the G35 Head units can playback MP3 CDs, I decided to go down that path, I ordered a 2nd hand Bose G35 head unit from USA, for a cost of $180. which was much cheaper than the iPod or double DIN option (especially considering I don't have a iPod). While the head unit was in transit, I found out that I don't have a Bose system, so I figured I would probably have to fit one of the 4ch amps I removed from my old car. When the Head unit arrived, I checked it out and found its output stage is a TDA 4x40W speaker driver, so I thought I could probably just swap it over without needing to add an amp. Upon removing my non-Bose head unit, i found a few differences. The output driver is exactly the same, but the non-Bose head unit has a much larger heat sink and integrated fan for the output driver, obviously to dissipate the additional heat created by driving speakers instead of just the input to the Bose amp. So to make the Bose head unit work with the non-Bose system, I needed to swap over the heat sink. A fairly easy process with 4 screws and some heat sink compound. In addition there is a small plug-in circuit board that has the rear output connectors on it. This board supplies the power for the heatsink fan on the non-Bose units, and appears to have some further audio processing on the Bose unit, so this board had to be swapped too, but that was a simply plug and play affair. I also had to swap the stereo and AC control board as the fluoro display is different on the MP3 system. But that was it, I re-fitted the head unit and facia and all is working fine, including the steering wheel controls. I now have a Bose G35 MP3 head unit running fine, at a fraction of the price of the iPod I/F or Double Din setup. The obvious down side is the head unit is 2nd hand, so there is the chance you can buy a dud, or have it fail after a few weeks.

Thanks for your help. I have only had the car for a few weeks, so I am not sure what is factory original for a sedan and what has been changed. The tyre placard shows tyre size and pressures for 18in tyres, so I had just assumed that these rims were standard sedan 18in rims. I will keep an eye out for 350z springs. Is there anything else you would suggest when fitting these springs? different shocks? Any other suspension components to get the alignment correct? oh, and just for the record - I have no intention of ever fitting 9.5in rims with 0 offset, I agree that it looks stupid with exessive camber, I was just wondering how they managed to get them to fit. This is my daily driver, so I don't want anything too uncomfortable, and don't want to be destroying tyres in 5,000km.

Thanks. Here are some pics, hopefully they will be helpful. I have read some posts on g35driver of people using 9.5 wide rims with 0 offset, and can't really understand how they can get them to fit?

just after some advice, I have the 18in Nissan rims with 245/45r18 tyres on the rear of my 2005 sedan. the top of the right tyre sits almost exactly flush with the outer edge of the guard, but the top of the left tyre protrudes slightly from the guard. It is only about 10mm, so nothing significant. I am going to get it checked and aligned by a suspension shop, but just want to check if is normal for the 18in factory rims to sit this far out? I can't see how it could be lowered too much without the tyres hitting the guards unless I add a bit of negative camber. the front tyres seem to sit further in, in relation to the front guards.