E_Lu-SHuN

its a 4dr! easier to get into

it feels better i still havent got it tuned yet oh and that 5 puk button clutch shit itself on me now waiting for a twin plate

wot? who said i wanted the manual gearbox badly? and no it wasnt a crap load of work and no it wasnt for LITTLE satisfaction cause i've learnt alot from this conversion

Hey guys, im selling a 1993 M-spec R33 sedan approx 116,000km Its a 2 tone colour 5spd manual Full 3inch Exhaust air filter Recently changed Heavy Duty Clutch 17 inch white TSW wheels with basically brand new rubber Carbon fibre bonnet Momo Gear knob autometre boost gauge and air fuel ratio gauge 10 stack CD player, with pioneer Head unit 11 months REGO Never had a boost controller. so nothing past 7psi Car has to be seen to be appreciated for its age $13.5 ono Contact on 0425835497 Cheers,

um 2dr r34 will fit 4dr r34 r32 r33 gtst wont fit r32 gtr wont fit... r33 and r34 gtr will fit r34 gtt. correct me if im wrong ppl

Hey Yes these ONLY fit the 2dr r34. Ive tried it on my car thats how i know And Yes its Carbon LOOK, Still the shit though

$130 delivered for the manifold?.

Yeh i cant wait to get some poncams, hopefully that make me come on boost abit earlier

lol lets say it comes on at 4k to 4.5k does that sound right. still standard motor, standard cams

I just pulled out my turbo and the inside the turbine housing of my garrett it says 1.06. Is that how you tell the size ? or Is there another way of finding out? I always assumed it was a 0.82 rear If so, How much would it be rated at? mines got a 6 blade gt30 compressor part Number 700177-14 Thanks

Hey im in need of a Twin plate or triple plate for a decent price... OSGIKEN or any good brand will do. cheers, This is for a r33 clutch. cheers,

dAMS! lOOKS like i missed out on anothere great cruise, was planning to hitch it with Minh, but i got home from the City at 6:30!. worse thing was, i had to train it there and back i want my car back

NoooO Change of plans...car might have a broken clutch!!!..hope not, if it gets fixed in time then i will attend. or maybe i will hitch a ride

hahaha mintie better make that meet at 6am so we arrive at 8am at Hungry Jacks

Im sure everything is re-assembled 100percent correct, side shafts ,spacers to every single nut ect.. the clips may be the issue your rite. One thing i realised. even with that half centremeter movment from the right shaft i think i may still get away with it so im goign to just wake it on and find out. Or is there someone out there that can tell me thats normal?. and i can drive at ease. tahnks for all replies.

Ok Here's the complete extended version. To start off, i was to replace the standard auto diff with an r33 manual one. for some reason whatsoever i didnt pay attention or question, i was told i wouldnt be able to do the straight swaparoo, instead i could just change the internals over and keep the housing. I thought that reason was that the diff's were different and couldnt line up the bolts. So i did. Half way there, center's out i found it difficult to take off the tail shaft gear wheel being i had no vice grip or air/power tools. So tried seeing if the r33 would bolt on and it did. Begining was a total waste of time. Took off the ABS sensor gears of each inner shafts of the auto one and jammed it onto the manual one. (do r33's have there's there?) Now back to re-assembling the r33 diff. Only thing changed is that add-on ABS sensor gears on outer side of each half shaft. done. Now im just about to give up and take it to a mechanic's or specialist for them to get it in and hopefully not charge. Times running out. Does anyone know?. the right side slides in and out about 5mm. Is that normal? or is that going to leak or pop right out under pressure cornering and shiz. Thanks

Yeh add me in to the definite. ITs august so i can plan my day off

welcome to sydney! Hey where did u get that clear cam cover? i want one is that the rb26 one?

"Otherwise you'll be screamin' your head off wondering what you did wrong. " thats funny because i actually had that problem before hand, comming to realise the above mentioned. Im still left wondering. Thanks mate.

You mean the inner shafts where the drive shaft bolts onto?. I tried only to find out it was a different size. Now im using the oringinal shatfs that came out of it but i cant seem to get that one side back in and locked in. attached is a picture that i stole from another thread, circled in red is the part i mean. It doesnt seem to lock in place securely enough for it not to pop right back out whilst driving. anyone?. Its driving me nuts. I calleup a driveshaft's specialists for info and advice.. and he just simply said he couldnt help me with skyline lsd diff's.

No i dont mean the actual shafts moving. This is the inner shaft that slides through driectly into the centre gears. once it pops out it starts to leak. i'll attatch photo's when i get the chance to. atm im just gonna replace circlip and seals, ansee what happens.. Still need to know if there is a way of piecing it together so it'll lack in place. Thanks

add me in! havent been to a cruise in ages

im still here Yeh count me IN ED

ok after hours bending and bangin the circlip. there isnt much i can think of. I never did an apprentice, so all of this is new learning steps for me. Now i need advice from someone who knows their shit. it still slides back off that half centermetre, with no stable lock. anyone?

Ok, Im in the process of fitting my diff atm after changing a few bits internal. Because this being my first shot at it im not sure if its %100. Whilst bolting the shafts on. i noticed the r/h shaft has about 1/2cm free play?. in/out. i can slam it back in, but it pops back out easily. what have i missed?. Something to do with that circlip inside the diff? It looked pretty simple, push in and lock. or was there more to it?.