alexj

And just to concur with what gtsboy say about the capital I style adjustable fucas. They are not great. I tried these style on the gtr to replace the superpro polybushes, when i wanted more camber. They kept going loose and out of adjustment (because the clamps on the centre threaded section have to fight the twisting forces and eventually lose) and then after a year or two the ball bearings wore out. I actually put a second set on after that which faired a bit better tbh but that was just a stop gap, that was back when gktech were developing their arms which i was hoping to use but when i saw there were some teething issues with the gktechs i went with ikeya.

Ah bugger just remembered we are talking gtst here. My ikeya arms are on my gtr; all rose jointed. The fucas you do need to calculate the length you need and then use the lower arm to set the camber precisely, so the ikeya fucas only really work if you have adjustable lower arms. Nvh isn't something i can comment on, it is a track car, high spring rates, with no interior. Regardless of nvh, just because of the maintenance effort i wouldn't go rose joints on a road car tbh. Superpro make adjustable inner and outer fucas bushes and that's what i had. And they do adjustable upper rear inner bushes and that's what i have on the gtst and had on the gtr until very recently. The gtst has nismo fucas bushes and whiteline tension rod bushes. Standard arms and bushes everywhere else. Hicas is locked with big thick washers on the inner ends of the tie rods. I have whiteline arbs front and rear on the gtst and they are great. On the gtr i had them too, but I went back to a standard front arb just because that worked better on most tracks for me on the gtr.

I used the offset poly bushes in my fucas for a couple of years of track days. And they were fine, still good when they came off the car, they didn't go out of adjustment. They do need grease nipples tapping into the fucas to allow them to be regreased. I also had eccentric poly bush cast rods back then. just couldn't get enough camber for serious track business, running all ikeya arms now.

You can get offset poly bushes for the top arms. They can give you a degree or so eitherway.

I have a thousand or so trackday laps on my r32 running redline heavyweight shockproof. The box shifts the same as when i started.

For a road car B6 are great, bit stiffer than stock, can run a spring a bit lower than stock, I have them on another car. Sadly we can't get them for a gtst in the UK. Imo DFVs are "good" in that real Ohlins are quality, if they are final jp DFVs that are actually supported by Ohlins. But they often are reviewed as being a bit firm, at least for UK roads. A lot depends on the local road conditions.

Just popped out the garage, measured the car 25 5/8 inches front and a 25 1/2 rear from the centre of the wheel arch to the ground. Looking at it, it isnt low by modern standards. Two fingers between the tyre and the arch on the front and one finger on the rear.

In the uk the local ohlins reps used to insist they couldn't service the jp licensed versions, but that seemed to change a few years back and i have heard people have had them serviced here. There's question it was like 2003 they were fitted, they have four settings and are on the second lowest iirc. They actually came with a height gauge so you could check you had legal ground clearance for japanese law (at the time). They were a bit too low for that.

They are Type NA, the most "street" version basically, they have a circlip for the spring seat adjustment. The camber gain from the drop in height was enough for a decent road setup, using the factory adjusters, it has aftermarket eccentric bushes in the "tension rods" which helps increase the caster on the front.

I have old teins on my hcr32, they are a bit meh, that's what there was in those days in the uk. I have these on my bnr32 and they are pretty nice. https://www.meisterr.co.uk/products/meisterr-gt1-coilovers-for-nissan-skyline-r32-gts-t-hcr32-89-94/ The rates are a bit higher than you want at 8/6 but they will feel softer because of the digressive valving. I run 12kg/9kg on the bnr and they feel softer than the HSD Mono's on 8/6 that i had before. The MeisterR Zeta's are half the price and probably fine for road use, I haven't tried them myself by they get decent reviews. I spoke to the boss, Jerrick and he might help you on spring rates.

Zero power assistance is stupidly heavy and would need to be mechanical failure; belt off or no fluid in the system. I would guess you are not quite there and just have "very heavy" steering? As above, i would start by checking the power steering solenoid is getting its signal from the hicas brain. It is a pwm signal and you can probe it on a dedicated pin on the consult port - a bit more convenient than back probing the connector on the rack. If you have a scope you can see the pwm duty or just use dvm to measure the voltage. The workshop manual has a diagnostic procedure for this. Its a few years ago but from memory 30% duty or 4v is what you are looking for.

I've got a decent amount of logged data from my 32 running both the stock attesa ecu with an aftermarket controller (skylab specifically but they all work similar) and recently the full race etspro. The main difference is the full race seems way more aggressive than the stock system especially in relation to throttle position and also it pre-loads the transfer case clutch pack (like the 33) so when it reacts the actual torque transfer is much quicker. If you aren't chasing lap times the stock system (assuming its healthy) with a piggy back controller is pretty sweet and the little lag you get on a 32 just makes for a bit more opposite lock and some extra fun and its easy to drive around it. The stock system also has some features/modes that more track/race developed system won't have, and will have had some serious vehicle dynamics time put into it so will probably work better in a wider range of conditions that you might see in a road car.

I've seen the Motec centre diff controller hardware but not aware of a software option "out of the box", so I guess you are using a Skyline GTR specific firmware build that provides centre diff control, who is providing that?

you could have a look at pgs transmissions on facebook? a bit more local to you.

I'm sure you know already but there are automotive grade regulators available that handle the particular challenges of a car's noisy 12v supply; i used the lm2940.

modern "three wire" oil pressure transducers are often 0-5v (0.5 to 4.5). so a guage designed for that could work for you. iirc on a 32 the factory nissan boost gauge is 0-5v as is the ATTESA front torque gauge. if you can build the gauge from scratch then switec low current stepper motors are popular for this sort of thing and can often be driven directly from the mcu (used on GM cars). I built a can guage to work with my link g4+ a couple of years back and used a 1.5" oled display rather than analogue gauges.

HKS 2.8 (86.5mm), Tomei Pon Cams Precision GEN2 6266 Twinscroll, 1.5bar/22psi 98RON Shell VPower, 660cc injectors, HKS in tank pump 611hp/455kw at the rear hubs at 6600rpm , 510lbft at 5200rpm Before we built the 2.8 this turbo made 577hp at 1.2bar/18psi on a 2.6 with 87.5mm pistons (basically 2.7) with similar response.

If it helps I've been logging the transfer case solenoid pressure for a few track outings now so I have some data and will be collecting more. I use the stock attesa ecu and Skylab Fusion to modify the lat and long G sensor output. The factory map/algorythm is fairly complex and I think tricky to reverse engineer from the inputs and outputs of the stock ecu. I have a m4 abs system and a full race ets pro going on at some point. I've put a couple of simple videos on my youtube channel.

stock turbo, injectors and fuel pump Apexi Pod AutoBahn88 FMIC Blitz SDBC Type S 0.9Bar 3" Downpipe 3 1/2" Decat 3 1/2" Apexi exhaust SAFC 2 233hp ATH (173rwkw) (plot is from MS Excel data logged on a Dynapack)