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alexj

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  1. Googling it, it looks like penrite do both a GL5 and a GL4 version. Apparently the GL4 is the one you want.
  2. Wow that makes a huge difference. The wire labelling is so much clearer, makes everything easier to follow. I'll be printing these out to replace my dogeared prints of the old pdf/scan. Thanks for sharing.
  3. Better quality scans of the wiring pages would be brilliant if you ever had some time on your hands! I have sent myself cross-eyed a few times trying to decipher the "normal" scan.
  4. Thanks BK. That millers stuff was what my workshop chose. I should have researched it myself. Thinking about it I had similar issue ages ago when I put Mobile 1 SHC in my old RB20 box - that's GL4/5 oil too. So how much work is it to strip this suspect box the the point where I could see if the synchros where actually OK? Does it make any difference that its a series 3 spec box?
  5. Small update. Had a track day on Monday after swapping back to the old box running heavy shockproof. Good as gold. So it's not the clutch mechanism or hydraulics at least. I can't seem to see any difference in the gear change speed going back in the logs but i need to look at it a bit more methodically.
  6. alexj

    Accusump

    I may be wrong but i did some maths recently; at high rpm an upgraded oil pump is moving around a quart a second. So you can size the accusump for the length of protection you need. A long corner on track might make for a few seconds of oil surge to make up for.
  7. Thanks Duncan, that's some good experience-based advice, I really appreciate it. Not many genuine specialists left in the UK sadly. Driving style is in the back of my mind as a cause. I generally shift fairly slow and I have a fair amount of mechanical sympathy. I don't religiously heeltoe though, and might have started to get a bit quicker shifting recently, with a bigger turbo now, trying to keep it on boost. I have logs going back a few years I could see if I've got a bit keener over time. What would you look for in the data logs? I dont log the clutch switch but maybe could look at the time it takes for the revs to drop for the next gear? I actually have a sequential on order, long lead time though, so the 5 speed will need to see me through at least the next few months.
  8. I'd like to hear opinions on this (cross post from the end of a different thread) I ran a standard r32 gtr 1991 5 speed on track for years. it had heavy shockproof in it that whole period. No problems at all. I bought a brand new series 3 box from nissan via rhdjapan and my garage put "normal" Millers CRX 75w90 NT oil in it. It ran fine for a few track days and changed the oil. now after around 5-10 days on track (so 10-20hrs of hard use) it crunches on all upshifts over 4500rpm or so. Only double de-clutching stops the crunch on high rev changes. Downshifts are ok. When it started crunching I got the garage to inspect the clutch (os twin plate) and bleed the master and slave cylinders. They couldn't see anything wrong. They feel if the clutch wasn't fully disengaging (which was my first diagnosis) it would have problems at low speed, which it doesn't. They feel the synchros are toast and it needs a rebuild. What killed the new box so quick? Was it the wrong oil? The first fill on the new box and the oil change were both Millers CRX 75w90 NT which are described as for "Manual transmissions, synchromesh ... which require API GL4 or GL5 performance"... I'm going to throw the old high mile box back in, with heavyshockproof as before. But I'd rather not ruin the synchros my old box too, so what would you suggest as diagnostic steps to make sure it isnt an issue with the clutch or something else that is the root cause?
  9. So here's an odd one that I'd like to hear opinions on. I ran a standard r32 gtr 1991 5 speed on track for years. it had heavy shockproof in it that whole period. No problems at all. I bought a brand new series 3 box from rhd and my garage put "normal" oil in it. It ran fine for a few track days and changed the oil. now after around 5-10 days on track it crunches on all upshifts over 4500rpm or so. Only double de-clutching stops the crunch on high rev changes. When it started crunching I got the garage to inspect the clutch (os twin plate) and bleed the master and slave cylinders. They couldn't see anything wrong. What killed the new box, wrong oil? The first fill on the new box and the oil change were both Millers CRX 75w90 NT which are described as for "Manual transmissions, synchromesh ... which require API GL4 or GL5 performance"
  10. My gtst has nismo bushes in the standard fucas. This is just an attempt to fit something that could have longer life than the standard bushes which wear out fairly fast. There isn't any adjustment for camber with just the nismo bushes but the drop in ride height from the teins adds a useful little bit of negative camber, which was a good enough for my needs. The whiteline tension rod bushes have an eccentric adjuster to add a little bit of caster. Nismo also do a kit for the gtr which moves the holes in the inner mount bracket of the fucas. Which helps a bit with the bad geometry. That bracket would work on a gtst. I can't remember if the rest of the kit is gtr specific. I think it is as it also has a longer lower arm iirc. Sounds like gtsboy had a particularly bad time with poly bushes, I didn't, but that was with very different conditions and usage, and your situation will be more like his than mine. I'm not sure you need adjustable fucas for you application anyway tbh.
  11. And just to concur with what gtsboy say about the capital I style adjustable fucas. They are not great. I tried these style on the gtr to replace the superpro polybushes, when i wanted more camber. They kept going loose and out of adjustment (because the clamps on the centre threaded section have to fight the twisting forces and eventually lose) and then after a year or two the ball bearings wore out. I actually put a second set on after that which faired a bit better tbh but that was just a stop gap, that was back when gktech were developing their arms which i was hoping to use but when i saw there were some teething issues with the gktechs i went with ikeya.
  12. Ah bugger just remembered we are talking gtst here. My ikeya arms are on my gtr; all rose jointed. The fucas you do need to calculate the length you need and then use the lower arm to set the camber precisely, so the ikeya fucas only really work if you have adjustable lower arms. Nvh isn't something i can comment on, it is a track car, high spring rates, with no interior. Regardless of nvh, just because of the maintenance effort i wouldn't go rose joints on a road car tbh. Superpro make adjustable inner and outer fucas bushes and that's what i had. And they do adjustable upper rear inner bushes and that's what i have on the gtst and had on the gtr until very recently. The gtst has nismo fucas bushes and whiteline tension rod bushes. Standard arms and bushes everywhere else. Hicas is locked with big thick washers on the inner ends of the tie rods. I have whiteline arbs front and rear on the gtst and they are great. On the gtr i had them too, but I went back to a standard front arb just because that worked better on most tracks for me on the gtr.
  13. I used the offset poly bushes in my fucas for a couple of years of track days. And they were fine, still good when they came off the car, they didn't go out of adjustment. They do need grease nipples tapping into the fucas to allow them to be regreased. I also had eccentric poly bush cast rods back then. just couldn't get enough camber for serious track business, running all ikeya arms now.
  14. You can get offset poly bushes for the top arms. They can give you a degree or so eitherway.
  15. I have a thousand or so trackday laps on my r32 running redline heavyweight shockproof. The box shifts the same as when i started.
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