hybrid_eg

Boost controller sold, only item available is PFC with LED commander. Thanks!

Datalogit is sold, other items are still available.

R32/33 GTR PFC D-Jetro with LED Commander + PFC Boost Controller + FC DataLogit Testing waters Super Package deal :2f2f: fits R32/33 GTR Apexi Power FC D-Jetro (Dual MAP Sensors) - Apexi Part # GTR33D 020-0433 Apexi Power FC Boost controller Kit - Apexi Part # 415-A001 (comes with single map sensor) Apexi Power FC LED Commander -Apexi Part # 415-A030 FC DataLogit - Controller and Cables included Both boost controller kit and Commander have less than 100 miles on them. Comes with all sensors needed for plug and play installation. $1000 firm (Shipping will be approx $60)

I've posted this in a separate thread earlier this year. I do have to go back and retune again as brand new power FC boost controller did not work again so we ended up running it on manual boost controller. I will probably dump PFC altogether and try "Link G4 ECU" plus play with cams/gears--currently set at zero. My main question is, what are some general boost levels that many of you run on your cars? I plan on running this motor regularly at 22-25psi.. car will only be used for couple of monthly coffee meets and occasional evening night rider passes.. along with few drift events each year. Most importantly, I'm thinking of dumping the brand new GTX3582 for an EFR8374 rear 1/05 a/r divided housing in hopes for quicker spool and more power at the same boost level. Can anyone share their experience with 8374 in comparison to my set up? I hear 700whp should be no problem and that's my ultimate target goal. Any feedback is greatly appreciated! Set up is as follows in S13 chassis: Mildly built R33 (pistons, rods, upgraded oil pump, HG, head studs, tomei poncams type B ID1000cc injectors running power FC d-jetro e85 race gas all the misc bolt-on's you can think off running GTX3582R, .82 rear T4 undivided with two 50mm gates Here is what it made at 22-23psi..

gents! My appologies for brining this one up from the dead! Few years back i owned a set of 18X10+20 LM GP's (GTR model) which i sold.. now I want to go back to them again, however this time around i'm running larger brakes than stock S13. To be exact these are Wilwood 4 piston superlites, relatively small brakes in comparison to many BBK out there. If i had to compare them to something R34 brembo's would be very close to them but i dont have those to adequately determine this. I would like know for those who have +20 LM what is the distance from wheel hub to the spokes? I need 1.12" of clearance from what i've been able to find on Wilwood's website, or preciselly 28.4mm I would like to build custom LM's 3PC with new barrels and get biggest lip possible for my non-track wheels :-) Thank you for the feedback in advance!

I'm pretty sure it will hit close to 700 if not more at 26psi.. We will see once the new boost controller is in and dynoed again.. I also ran that filter condom which I hear robbed easy 10-15hp.. Overall I really can't even use the amount of power it's currently putting out let alone adding more, but good to know that it can.. Driveability I was never looking for fool boost at at 3K, car is mainly used for drifting and fun on the street so this band should work ok with some massive rubber.. It's running a brand new rb25 box and we will be putting a 4.6 final drive ring and pinion to make it even more fun I'll report back once she's all together

I honestly have no idea!! We've triple checked that everything is connected as per manual and still nothing.. i bought it brand new last year along with new LED commander.. i did read that many people had problems with getting it to work.. overall PFC is just prehistoric in my honest opinion.. works OK, but i will probably switch out to different standalone later this year... first time i went to dyno last year i had 1.02 rear housing which was just too big.. and soft springs in the 50mm gates so the car only made 10psi and it took forever to build 10lbs.. this time around i swapped stiffer springs in the gates and thought that PFC boost kit is now all working properly.. when we got there it wasn't.. however springs were good to make 17lbs.. so the we opted to connect manual boost controller hence how we got to 22psi and stopped there.. I'll be throwing on a good 'ol Greddy Profec A which i never had a problem with and do another session once the car is out of paint.. At this point I'm just happy to making some power! As the car had been sitting idle in garage for years being worked on as time permitted.

Thanks for the info gents!! I wanted to make sure that 22-25 is not excessive.. we can def run higher boost.. just decided to end it at 22psi as we were already sitting on the dyno for 4hrs setting up from scratch.. i guess we will have to hit 2 bar next time around! Max out that profec A, lol!

Finally got it all together and did first dyno session putting down some decent numbers.. I do have to go back and retune again as brand new power FC boost controller did not work again so we ended up running it on manual boost controller. I will be getting an electronic one so i'll re-tune again and likely play with cams/gears--currently set at zero. My main question is, what are some general boost levels that many of you run on your cars? I plan on running this motor regularly at 22-25psi.. car will only be used for couple of monthly coffee meets and occasional evening night rider passes.. along with few drift events each year. Any feedback is greatly appreciated! Set up is as follows in S13 chassis Mildly built R33 (pistons, rods, upgraded oil pump, HG, head studs, tomei poncams type B 1000cc injectors running power FC d-jetro e85 race gas all the misc bolt-on's you can think off running GTX3582R, .82 rear Here is what it made at 22psi..

i saw your original thread where some people mentioned a bad batch of shockproof? My gear box was freshly rebuilt couple years back and was just sitting until recently.. prior to that it had bad syncros which shockproof heavy took good care of. Once it was put back together i put heavy back in there but on cold starts it was hard to shift, so went with light version.. since then we had only put some 200 miles on the car since its not a daily and noticed spitting of fluid out of breather.. without hard driving conditions.. I have not tried changing the fulid to non-shock proof but seems like i should try this plastic fuel filter thing for solution?

just found this one in the states, 23300-AA300, looks just like the 23300-20P05, however since this is a large wholesaler they were unable to send me front picture of the unit to see if its exact same as mine, looking at photo comparison looks almost identical, fingers crossed that this works!!

Thanks mate! The label on my starter is old so the numbers wore off but I'm happy you verified correct part # -20P050 Also if direct cross reference is part # 23300-aa300 I have seen those float on eBay from some U.S. Sellers 2nd hand and will give them a shot as my unit is completely toast This part # 23300-08U15, would this fit also or it's totally different? Thanks for the referrals where to obtain them I'll try them out in event I cannot locate them stateside. Tons of thanks for the info!!

Gents I would gladly buy a starter out of the country as long as I know of a reliable unit that will actually fit, if no part numbers are musing from my label (first picture) it makes 23300-20p050 does anyone have an actual year/make/model that this ties to? Google came up with nothing It def has to be the same dimension as the part of rb25 wont accommodate anything longer, such as ka24 I attempted to install today. Thanks for everyone's input!

here are some comparison photos of the starter i tried today, looks like its from KA24 possibly but as mentioned above does not fit.

I'm having an issue finding out what starter i have. This starter came with the motor set when i bought it years ago, since then starter had been giving me problems, had it rebuilt but its still acting up. I'm trying to find what other starter i can use that will match this starters dimension since i'm in the USA, if unable to locate id gladly locate it internationally as well so i can get the car back on the road. Motor R33 RB26, Trans RB25 Today i had an electrical repair shop give me this starter to try however the nose is way too big and hits the trans housing. Here are some pics, what i have been able to identify on old starter part number is 23300-20P05 (i think its missing numbers after 5, perhaps 51 or 52?)

Hello, I wanted to see what cam gear settings are you guys using? Basically trying to find a good starting point or overall suggested setting for Pon cams b? Motor is fully built, gtx3582

Was this painted or powdercoated? I dont see any powder coats in either JW0 Millennium Jade or EY0 Silica Breath.. Any thoughts anyone? Tks in advance!!

Fixed :-) it was a mysterious wavey washers that somehow was placed between spring and the tensioner which made the tensioner sit incorrectly thus resulting in the incorect belt position. Thanks to all once again for the feedback!!

I'm taking it apart on Thursday to check spring, and measure everything to see what gives.. also keep in mind originally I had the belt flpped the wrong way ( didnt see the mark on the Tbelt) and really thought that could have been it, when belt was reintalled it was put in the correct position, however when motor starts it moves forward.. and stays in that position.. it doesnt walk like you would see on a stretched belt..

I didnt get a chance to take it all apart but took some more pics to share.. From what I can see on the manual instructions on tensioner there is only a spring in front of it.. od idler, nothing.. So i'm not sure why everyone is advising it could be a washer when its not pictured in the manual? There is a washer in front of the bolt that wil not offset distance between pulley and block. This is weird..

Tks again gents! Which washer are we referring to exactly?

When the belt was installed, it was even with the cam gears.. however, the motor was run, the belt centered itself in the position where it seems to be off.. (original pictures). The washers from the FSM are all there.. so i'm not sure what gives..

As i remember everything was installed correctly reusing the washers.. the belt is not walking its just sitting in that position. Does anyone have a picture with same set up installed to see the position? Both cams and cam gears?

Hello gents, I wanted to get some feedback related to the pics.. so just recently completed a full R33 rebuilding.. i've included Tomei cam gears and poncams.. the only problem visually I appear to have is the fact that Timing belt is about 1mm off the cam gears closer to the radiator. Tbelt does not appear to be walking as i've taken it all apart again to check the bottom pulleys and all is in check.. belt is in-line with all the side covers and doest move around, it just that it sits a nudge past the edge. Anyone else encounter this? Prob is i never took a pic with OEM cam gears to see how it sat and measure the gears for comparison purpose. All feedback is appreciated! Tks!

As the title says, it appears that tbelt is walking but it's really not moving. It appears that it sits a nudge pass the cam gears edge something I didn't notice with Oem gears.. Has anyone run into this? Cams are poncam b's.. Tks to all in advance