sean133

Sorry I didn't understand the coil pack thing at all haha Oh ok good idea ill do that with the tps but I've still got a problem of running wrong as if its gone full retard haha

Yeah using the loop, been reading up on how to do it with the coil pack but not really sure what to do Didn't know about disconnecting tps, how come? Also idle is set to 750rpm won't go lower Yeah was alright before the belt change

hey guys got a timing issue after a bit of help constructive criticism welcome So recently just did water pump so I did a new timing belt at the same time as well as spark plugs Got the timing light on I and its 30 degrees advanced but before that I drove it up the street and it spools like crazy and goes nowhere, obviously it's running retarded as hell, cas at full retarded gives me 25 degrees advanced so something is clearly wrong By the way I've done timing belts before...... So took it all off to re check, and re did the belt incase i missed something, All lines up properly on the crank pulley, and intake and exhaust cam marks all line up Started it up again , sent photos of the timing belt marks to a mechanic who said all good Sounds like a wrx and timing light says like 50 degrees advanced ......anyone got any ideas? Also pulled the plug out and realised I got supplied rb25 plugs not rb20 so ill get rb20 sparkles in ASAP. Got a spare cas ill try, Obviously when cars under load the ecu is reading it knocking so its retarded the timing to keep it safe so I've got no power But I should be able to get base timing right..? Gonna check ecu codes ASAP too Any ideas are appreciated

Could figure out where the clutch sits inside the box by measuring then figure out where the face of the bearing will sit at the furthest point the pressure plate is inside the box , then if the fork angle is ok after setting it up I'll know it will work Just weird it ever happened, no one else seems to have had the issue

Yeah I thought of that after I posted

For anyone wondering, the pivot ball in the rb25 gearbox was too long Which is very weird because most people seem to just bolt the box up to a rb20 easy Pivot ball being too long burnt the clutch out hence the smelling/slipping Got a gktech sr20 one in there now just need to bolt it up and test it out , could possibly still be wrong just need to trial and error

Threw new water pump, and timing belt kit in New slave on, car still wouldn't move, would move at 5000rpm Pulled box out after a lot of diagnosing Seized slave wore down the clutch and warped it, and cracked my flywheel No drift prac on sat for me! Need to buy New clutch Flywheel/machine Flywheel bolts Spigot bush

I could smell something burning It all leads to a slipping clutch I suppose Only theory I could come up with is when the slave was seized and wouldn't fully engage the Clutch before , the clutch was basically worn down to nothing because of it, which kind of makes sense

Well I do, it means the clutch is slipping because its not under load off the ground, But it's impossible

Don't get how the wheels can spin more to match my revs when the car is off the ground, but on the ground it won't move

No Free play Can be pushed right back into it yeah

Nah there the same. Same part number

Are they different? Would they cause an issue? If the rb20 one is longer and I got supplied it then it'd be my issue

Unless I got supplied a rb20 thrust bearing not a 25....

Didn't use anything off the rb20 box, rb25 box has all rb25 parts

Got a clutch engaging issue lads Installed a good condition rb25 box that came out a car I wrecked Basically got it done and car could be put into all gears but it wouldn't move Sussed it out to be a stuck slave cylinder so replaced that with new oem item (everything seemed to lead to this) Because we took the slave out, fiddled with the pin and put it back in and the car would drive as it should for like 10 seconds then get stuck again So I bought a new slave but it didn't fix the issue .... We put the rear on jack stands and took the slave off and the wheels spun in first as they should, speeding up with the revs of the car going up Clutch slave back on and it'd do the same On the ground the car would move when you put it in gear, but when foot went on the throttle nothing happened At 4000ish rpm the car kinda moved a bit which seems like the clutch is slipping But I drove with this clutch before the box change, and it had plenty of meat left otherwise I would have replaced it New oem slave, new gktech braided clutch line, bled properly. Fiddled with the adjustment on the clutch pedal but it didn't change anything I understand that many people will just say " clutch is gone" But how? Basically the issue seems to be either the clutch is slipping which I don't believe Or the clutch fork isn't retracting properly , Is there a way the thrust bearing or carrier could not be going right back in ? Leaving the clutch still engaged a tiny bit so it won't go into gear fully? Could pivot ball be affecting this? Could it be a spigot bush issue? It has a new thrust bearing, pivot ball was good, and the fork wasn't cracked, and I checked it moved nicely and as it should before the box went in. Appreciate all help and constructive criticism or let me know if I should try something to diagnose further Thanks guys And yes I can just pull the box out but id like to diagnose as much as possible before I do it in case I don't need to. Because I'd like to do drift prac on Saturday

apparently the key ways could be messed up that's why it's jammed on

Lol the bolt is out

Oxy torch didn't work I've tried everything This is crazy! I've taken them off with ease before

I know, but I had to try. I have a spare pulley

So I need to remove my crank pulley, never had trouble before doing one until this one' R32 rb20 tried the usual way, bolts into the two threaded hole and push on the bolt trick Tried the crank removal tools , the ones that reached around the back , ended up snapping the welds on the removal tool Been hammering it, using wd40 to try loosen it up all the time constantly Anyone got any other tricks? Cheers

Cheers man

fk this car! nah , shes ok sometimes everytime i go to finish off the car with fluids, something goes wrong filled ps reservoir,a hicas line split filled and did a brake bleed brake line split filled clutch line and bled clutch, slave cylinder is seized so car wouldnt move filled coolant and did a coolant flush, thermostat opens, water pump spews it all out ! i have a new oem slave coming monday, need to source a water pump too but heres some pics and stuff to update it all full front end re wire fuse box behind dash rb25 gearbox in, tailshaft done interior back together abs brake lines ran through firewall also, began cage

yeah not bad nissan want around 180 brand new oem got a mate hooking me up with a brand new oem one for 75 through sprints so cheering comes in tomorrow