sean133

$50 ain't badly priced either

Cheers for your help man I appreciate it Took the slave out and wheels spun in gear as they should, fiddled with the slave and got it to retract properly and threw it back in, and car drove right for a minute before the slave got stuck again Ordering a new slave today May aswell just get a new one I suppose

Also box and slave have been sitting doing nothing for about 2 years, could be a contributing factor to a seized slave

But I lik your suggestions and help, it all makes it easier for me to figure it out!

100% not a clutch issue (as in pressure plate clutch plate flywheel etc) Definitely not a diff issue One thing I noticed, when my rb20 was out, I could attach the box then the slave after, With the rb25 gearbox on, I can't attach the slave cylinder after as its too stiff, which makes me believe it hasn't retracted all the way So I believe th slave is stuffed If that makes sense

Clutch was good I've been driving with it for a year Box came out a car I wrecked If the slave pin isn't releasing all the way then it'll give me the issue what I'm having That's a good idea about taking the slave of and driving it in first (or reverse for me as its in the shed..)

So basically tailshaft spins but very weakly, not enough to move the car So it's clearly a clutch engagement issue I would say Isn't a diff issue as there's no noises and the wheels spin fine

And yeah haha I actually wrote in my first post I did that, Thinking it may now be the slave cylinder, the pin is seized and isn't fully de compressing, leaving the thrust bearing pushing on the clutch still when the clutch pedal is disengaged Being like that the clutch slips, so it grabs slightly but very weakly, which is my problem

I wrote that out just for reference sake, in case someone asked can I slide it into gear while running without using the clutch

So I just finished putting a rb25 gearbox in my r32 Got the custom tailshaft to suite But basically, I can put the car into all gears, while the car is on, and my revs don't change, it doesn't stall, it doesn't move at all. But I need to use the clutch to put it into gear It moves ever so slightly then just nothing My mate said my tail shaft is too short, but it splines onto the gearbox which I can easily tell, and I ran the car on jack stands with no tailshaft in, and the spline on the back of the gearbox spins Does any one have any ideas

Cheers man. Can't go wrong with bayside blue! Best colour

paint came up sooooo nice! 3 coats of bayside blue down and 9 coats of clear so smooth, dropping tools dont damage it, it doesnt peel, its baked on nicely. now i have the confidence to do the whole car so started putting stuff back together. new fuel filter, lines and hose clamps. HEL braided clutch line HEL abs delete kit wiring is gonna be fun ....... not

yeah probably haha. is yours the blue one with 4 stud ? gtr wing ssr's etc. halfway through engine bay first coat of paint bayside blue mmmmmmm best colour

Thanks buddy

Ahh but r33 ps reservoirs are half the size of r32s man. Cheers though, got any close up pics of the 90 degree bit though?

Sorry if wrong area Google hasn't showed me much, I want to move my r32 ps reservoir to where the charcoal canister is, I can mount it fine , but does the bottom of the ps reservoir need to be highe than the pump? Or does the bottom orthr fluid level in the resi have to be higher? When I mount it the resi bottom is roughly in line with the top of the pump, but the main hose going to the pump is on a slight up angle Would rather not cook a ps pump if I can Any links or info/ pics is appreciated, I may have missed it on google/forums, not sure though, most were useless

spent about 15 hours this weekend cleaning and preparing the engine bay. a lot of time involved but it paid off in the end. fuse box is now behind the cd player and easily accessible. i didnt even have to cut any wires to move it relocated a few other random boxes behind the dash too. again easily accessible. fitted a solid steering shaft spacer. ordered a HEL abs delete kit, so i stripped the abs out. entire front end was stripped bare, degreased, pressure cleaned, sanded and then primed. threw in the motor last thing while i give the primer a few days to dry, so i can dummy up a new PS reservoir mount and lines, run new vac lines, wiring etc. while the primer is drying i need to re wire about 10 plugs in total i think, which will be run through the guard, eliminating electrical issues if i get a hit on the front guard. i also re did my cam cover seals (leaking) fitted my rb25 gearbox with new thrust bearing. drilled out a snapped turbo stud looped heater lines, replaced all hoses with new clamps etc. few pics more soon, for now, i need a beer, or 7 before after

after a r32 engine mount and if anyones wrecking a r32 can you please pm me

rb20 gearbox with shifter and x member good condition will offer start up warranty $400 r32 4 door vanquish roof spoiler $120 paid 200 not long ago for it rb25det manual turbo ecu $50 r32 hicas unit with tie rods, no tie rod ends. $80 any hicas parts like lines solenoids etc i have but they will be binned soon if no one wants them?

feb drift prac few pics car performed flawlessly as usual diff was awesome

Pair 32 gtr wheels

Anyone after a rb20 gearbox? $400 firm Still in car, happy to let you drive up n down the driveway to test it out if you show me the money. Comes with shifter Smoothest rb20 box I've ever driven with Rb20 crossover pipe with bov $40

few more pics and slight update got a set of 32 gtrs for skidders good sizes, light, fit a lot of sizes of tyres, perfect, chasing another set too bought another rb20 dissassembled it today sending it off to lewis engines for block machining and head work, crack testing chemical wash etc. also cleaned the rb25 box today, so good working with parts that are so clean! big plans for this car once the motor is built, a big make over is in the works

yeah i know haha but i swear theres no such thing as a neat gtst , one day i want to own another r32 gtr again. my old one was too perfect. i originally welded a r33 diff to go in, but bailed in the end, still have it as a backup diff. but the shimmed locks up well, it loosens up a bit after time , so a welded is prefered if you want it to be predictable every time. but i think the shim is predictable enough. maybe every 6 months or so ill chuck a fresh shim in there. cheers man, hope your car is going ok??