Lazy-Bastard

Thanks to everyone for all the well wishes. Already learning what the sleepless nights are about...have had about 6 hours in the last three days, so training has begun. Jules and baby are still at the hospital but should be home in the next day or so. They have graciously thrown some cardboard and newspaper on the floor for me so I am staying there most of the time and just popping back home to "freshen up" every now and then. See you all in about 20 years And just for the record, the baby seat fits better in the 'line than in the WRX

I got mine from Queensland Diesel Spares

:Oops: *edits last post and hides in the corner* I'm pregnant remember

ummmm...nothing :confused:

Let me guess..... a Brock polariser?

I thought that cutting wire 53 caused problems exiting HICAS diagnostic mode once you had entered it, not put your ECU into HICAS diagnostic mode. :uhh:

glad to be of assistance

Yes the Wesley hospital No, not a daddy yet goddamnit, due date was the 13th Licence back on 2nd of October

Saw jlnewton on Corro drive today at around 3pm.....I was in "the blue car" (as a passenger of course). Tried to catch up but traffic was too heavy and we had to turn off to go to the Wesley.

dunno if this will suit your model, but...... http://www.greddy.com/tech/FATURBO_TIMER.pdf

at a guess, I would say something to do with the antenna, maybe an RF amplifier???

I read somewhere (maybe SAU) that Brasso would work....sounded just dodgey enough, so gave it a go and it works pretty well but they do fog over again after a few weeks. Might give toothpaste a try next time though...cause it sounds even dodgier

Hey Glenn Any idea if the R32 boss fits on an R33?

I have some pics of the job I did on my R33 here if anyone is interested. The final configuration has changed a little since the pictures were taken but you get the general idea. My advice is to use T-Bolt hose clamps not the crap ones with the hex head/flathead fastener, as I had some teething problems using the cheaper ones, where they would blow off the piping under high boost conditions (not much fun and rather embarassing when you're hard up it on a mountain run or halfway down the track at Willowbank :Oops: ) In the pictures shown here I have used a 2.5" donut for the 180 and 90 degree bends, but there isn't really enough "meat" left after the bend to clamp the silicone hose to, which is probably part of the reason the piping was blowing off. For the final incarnation I used the 180 degree bend shown in the picture and took it to an exhaust shop and had them weld an extra few inches onto each end so I had more straight pipe to clamp the silicone hose to. The 90 degree bends I swapped for proper prefabricated ones which have a decent amount of straight pipe on either side of the bend, again, to get more clamping area. The next door neighbour is getting a welder in the next couple of weeks, so like Dan, I am going to weld a couple of the joins shortly and then maybe get the pipes powdercoated. Excuse the pic size.....still haven't worked out the thumbnail thing

does that include my fund raiser idea?.....

fund raiser idea - the caldwell fund for skylines lacking mods

Between 5 - 6000 rpm? I think the general consensus for solving this problem is normally reducing the spark plug gap. I had the same problem after fitting a front/dump pipe, which in turn, raised the boost a little. At the moment I have standard copper plugs gapped at .6mm and the missing/stuttering has disappeared. Worth a shot and cost = free

no problemo.....thanks anyway, but I have solved the problem. Figured the AFM was farked anyway so bit the bullet this arvo and pulled it apart. Turns out the soldered connection from one of the pins (which the plug connects to) to the PCB had broken. Gave them all a dab of solder just to be sure and then siliconed the cover back on and she's as good as gold. Previously if I moved the AFM at all the car would splutter and eventually stall. Now I can shake the farker like a screaming child ( ....j/k) and it doesn't miss a beat. Whacked it all back together and took it for a spin over the bumpiest road I could find and it's all good It's taken a week and a half to finally track down the source of the problem, so I'm pretty stoked atm....just wish I hadn't bastardised the wiring in the first place, cause that could have saved me a lot of heartache to begin with.

do you still have the AFM and is it off a series 1 or series 2?

edit: just realised it is a SII AFM and was told it won't work with a SI

I am still having trouble with something to do with my AFM. I thought it was the wiring to begin with, but have rewired it and the same problem persists. Does someone have an AFM hanging around that I can borrow or buy? Would be much appreciated edit: And I think it needs to be from a series 1 (green sticker), cause series 1 and series 2 are different from what I've been told.....anyone who knows better, feel free to enlighten me...

does the AFM come with the wiring connector/plug?

I used Castrol VMX-80 for my gearbox with a large tube of Nulon G70 (think that's the stuff can't remember exactly) For the diff I used a Shell synthetic product...again, can't remember the exact type but any good synthetic diff oil designed for LSD's should be OK I know a lot of people recommend the Redline lightweight shockproof oil for the gearbox, but it is rather expensive, so depends on your budget I guess.

1. Correcto...me no touchy touch any other wiring apart from the AFM 2. I will try to track down a relay in the vicinity of the clicky noise 3. If I didn't have to I would never have touched anything electrical.....I'd rather have teeth pulled 4. Thanks for the help

I will take some pics of the ECU wiring for you on the weekend Adrian, but it's pretty messy in there....so I don't know if you'll really be able to tell from that