Lazy-Bastard

Car Parts Series 1 wing - black in good condition - LED not working - $50 Factory intercooler - $50 Factory front+dump pipe - $50 HICAS motor - $20 Sony CD stacker (factory unit from boot) - $40 Misc Bits Pentium 200mmx PC, 128Mb RAM, 3.2Gb HDD, with KB, mouse and 15" monitor (a little dim) - $60 Inkel Power Amp - 300w RMS per side or 600w bridged - rack mountable - $100 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- all prices are ONO, prefer Brisbane buyers or shipping at buyers expense PM or call 0414 249 292

multigrips

I had the same problem with my S1 R33 I dismantled the AFM and resoldered the joints from the PCB to the plug pins and haven't had a problem since. I'm not saying that this will work for you, but it did for me. You will need to silicone it back up after you put it back together to make sure it is sealed from water etc.

Tyres, suspension and gear selection aren't your problem my friend......you just aren't running enought boost :kick:

Testify!!! On topic....I will attempt to attend :Paranoid:

Yes!.. the rear toe on mine was all over the place after I fitted the HICAS bar. So much so that the wheel alignment guy had to have about 4 goes backing it up onto the ramps because it was "steering" from the back wheels.

dodgy!.....VERY dodgy!....buyer beware

I'd go for a decent ratchet (eg: Sidchrome) with a 1/2" drive...stay away from 1/4" drives IMO. The most common socket sizes I have found on my R33 (yes, I know you have a Cefiro)are 10, 12, 14 and 17mm, but probably just get a semi-decent set (I think most sets range from 10 - 19mm). A ratchet extension is handy as well while were talking ratchets/sockets etc. Letting a guy loose in a tool shop is like letting a woman loose in a shoe shop so the list is kind of endless. I think the key is to pay a little bit extra and get something of decent quality. IMO if it's made in Germany, the U.S or Japan then as a general rule the quality is pretty good. edit: handy tools?!?!?...I want one of those 'magnets-on-a-stick with a bendy arm'. I am always dropping shit into the deepest darkest corners of my engine bay

I was sure there was an ECU pinout diagram on this site http://www.overflow.250x.com/ but I can't find it atm. Maybe download the "sky is the limit" doc. It might be in there

the factory bushes stay where they are and the pineapples are used to compress them to eliminate the movement that you get from them. This thread has some pictures I took when installing mine http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=61229

I think the Tomei ones use shims to stop the rear control arms from moving rather than remove the entire HICAS unit

No. When I removed the HICAS ECU under the rear parcel shelf I lost the power steering. It works fine withe the ECU plugged in but you get the warning light on the dash. This is in an R33. I have no idea about a 32.

Update on the HICAS ECU: I now have no power steering at all. I read in another HICAS thread something about the weight of the low speed steering being effected, but I have no power steering at ANY speed. Not sure whether I like it or not yet. The steering is quite heavy even in fast corners but it actually feels more direct and comunicative. I will have to take it for a decent run through some more demanding corners and see if I can deal with it long-term. I suppose I could just carry the ECU aroung and plug it back in when I was feeling tired/lazy

Thanks for the bar Geoff, sorry it's taken so long to get back to you. Just for peoples information regarding the HICAS warning light on the dash. I was stuffing around with some stereo stuff in the boot and thought...."I don't need that HICAS ECU anymore...I'll just pull it out", and so I did. Lo and behold....no more HICAS light I just presumed that someone else would have tried this before as a fix or removed it anyway, but I guess not. Anyway someone else with a lock bar give it a go and let us know if it works for you.

Well I have used araldite and gasket maker on my coils and still my missing problem persists. Next step is to swap the igniter and see if that helps :rolleyes:h

I had a very crap quality pic in my thread, but my ISP's homepage server is down atm, so no looky looky

The photo quality couldn't get much worse, but anyway... Cracked coil: Burn mark: Araldite: Gap - fill all the way around from both sides: Gasket maker: