pomnz

I know this to be true, I did mine DIY style a bit ago. I ended up lowering the car off the jack so that my breaker bar was on the ground to give me the leverage, there's a groove in the concrete floor of my garage now...........

Ouch, what else did you have done?

I've got a fault Code reader you can use if u r in akld?

I have the whole service manual if that's what u were after? Let me know what section (s) and I'll upload it. I tried to buy a consult iv reader from China but ended up being messed about for ages and was then told it wouldn't work. Who knows if that was true

Had to split the document as it was too bigCAN wiring diagrams 1.docxCAN wiring diagrams 3.docxCAN wiring diagrams 2.docx

I'm in Auckland and sent you a pm, I just realised I uploaded the wrong doc as well, Doh! See attached for a full breakdown of the Can Bus system wiring and modules.

Finally got the dreaded U1000 Can Com Error code fixed, it turned out to be a faulty atessa computer. The worlds sh*test garage charged me $1750 and it still wasn't working until I ordered a second hand computer off yahoo and gave it to them. Not sure what the policy on naming names around here is but those bloody cowboys are the worst ever! I have also uploaded some notes on the Can Bus Communication system which I had to teach myself, and the so called professionals at the garage, about. See attached, hopeful my experiences may help someone else in the future. Stagea Can Wiring Diagram.doc

The service manual says Matic J in the gearbox (10.3 litres) but Matic D (1.8 litres) in the Transfer case. Something I'm not clear on though is the atessa fluid, is this the transfer case oil or separate to it? I'm having the same shudder problems as the OP.

I had this issue on a non-stagea vehicle and ended up cutting the plug off the new ballast and soldering it to the wires going into the headlight for the factory fitted hids. I then used the original Hid connector that was fitted in the headlight assembly. This is of course assuming you have factory Hid fittings?

My 250t rs four has them

You could try getting your battery tested I know that these cars seem to start acting strange when the battery starts to go. Otherwise I would try the multimeter tests mentioned in the service manual.

Hmm not really clear, if you look in the attachment for pressure switch 圧力SW or 圧力スイッチ There are a few references but it's more about testing the functionality rather than where it is located. Try and find out the code and that will probably help otherwise if you have a multimeter and know what you are doing there are a few voltage and continuity tests you could do, let me know if you need more help. There is also this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/402973-m35-attesa-ets-pressure-switch-problems/ What symptoms are you having?

What code did u get?

Go to page 20 in the attachment, in the picture marked A the smaller item on the left labeled "E-TS アクチュエーターリレ" is the E-TS actuator relay. It's basically just beside the 4wd ecu, below the attesa fluid reservoir which is all in the boot wall behind the storage thingo on the drivers side. I Google translate. TF - Transfer.pdf

And? Can you feel the difference? any chance u can make me one?

Well I've ordered so i guess we'll find out soon enough. Fingers crossed.....

I looking at about $300 delivered but have asked whether it works on our cars, if i can get money back if it doesn't etc so will have to see what they say first. I am also in the process of "acquiring" some related software to play with. I'm having no luck getting my nm35 repaired so am looking to go fully self sufficient if I can get set-up at home. I already got one of those memoscan N607 things http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/389627-a-cheap-scan-tool/page__p__6207895__hl__consult__fromsearch__1#entry6207895 which is good but not fully functioned like this consult 4 thing is meant to be.

I would love to know how those Consult 4 CS300 scanners work as well, I have found a supplier that sells them direct from china for a fairly reasonable price. Has anyone on here used one? I have emailed them a few questions. If it does what is says on the tin it would be an awesome tool to have but I guess one of us will have to put their money on the line.........It may well be me.

Yeah I get the same

There are other references as well just search for 圧力SW in the attachment.TF - Transfer.pdf

The Service Manual talks a lot about the 圧力SW this being the pressure switch, says the below about testing it: (Bing) E-TS actuator Pressure switch Unplug the connector, 3 to 6 to check the continuity between the terminals No.. When the accumulator pressure in vacuum Less than approximately 2.6 MPa {27.0 kg / cm 2}: continuity and When the accumulator pressure increase pressure Approximately 3.8 MPa {39.0 kg / cm 2} below: continuity and See also: • E-TS actuator motor stops immediately after is the アキュームレー THA pressure is high, no conduction. • Increased pressure when is the actuator motor when the decompression And when the actuator motor when. E-TS motor • Unplug the connector, plus the battery voltage between pin 2-1 Check out or the motor drive. Note: to prevent motor overheating not voltage more than 5 seconds It. (Google translate) E-TS actuator Pressure switch Remove the connector, check for continuity between pin 3 to 6. Reduced pressure when the pressure in the accumulator Continuity: In the following about 2.6MPa {27.0kg/cm2} 圧時 increased pressure in the accumulator Continuity: In the following about 3.8MPa {39.0kg/cm2} Note: Immediately after stopping the motor actuator Akyumure • E-TS There is no high pressure conduction target. • and an increase 圧時 is when motor actuator operation, decompression And stop time is when the actuator motor. E-TS motor • Remove the connector, when the battery voltage is applied between pin 1-2 Check whether the drive motor. CAUTION: To prevent heating of the motor, no voltage is applied to at least 5 seconds Thing.

Well I got me one of those Memoscan N607 tools and have been running through various tests to see if that helps ID the problem for me. So far the ABS speed sensors are all confirmed to be working as are all the solenoids in each wheel for the abs activation. The ABS motor will turn on to continuous and responds to turning off again but when I select the "down" test it says "communication error". I dunno if this is normal or not? Can Circuit 3 & 5 shows as "unknown" where as 1,2,&4 all shows as "OK" - again dunno if this is normal but I suspect not. Somewhat bizarrely Can Comm shows as "OK" even though the only code I get out of the abs computer is U1000 can comm error. My spare ABS controller/computer arrived and I plugged it in only to find that it too shows the same U1000 code. I haven't connected the brake lines or anything but I would think this means that the abs unit is not at fault. The scanner cannot communicate with the hicas and says "impossible proceed". This is different to the BCM and AT modules which it cannot communicate with either and just returns to the previous menu when you attempt it. Ideas/thoughts welcome.

I'd be surprised if the parts were interchangeable given the different part numbers although maybe someone with a copy of Nissan FAST will be able to help? I ended up ordering the abs computer from nengun.com for 150 bucks delivered way better than the 500 plus a local breaker wanted or the 1200 from the stealership. Maybe look there or import monster?

Do you have the Jap service manuals? Where can I get a copy?

Scott, I thought the abs control unit and the actuator were a combined unit? I have checked the fuses in front of the battery and those in the drivers footwell, I didn't know there was a third box somewhere? I'm located in Auckland. Symptoms are that ABS light is on, ABS does not function, Attessa does not function so car is RWD only. Code is U1000 pulled from ABS unit not ECU. There are no other issues/symptoms or codes. Code has been reset and appears again 15 seconds or so after you tun the ignition on so the problem is persistent. I have removed all four speed sensors and cleaned them, they were not even dirty to be fair but thought I'd try it anyway, I couldn't seen anything wrong with the connecting cables or the teeth on the metal wheel thing that they scan. I have cleaned the two ground connectors behind the dash and the battery connectors suggested in the TSB http://engine-codes.com/uploads/nissan/NTB06-009a.pdf I have read http://www.jdmgallery.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/BRC.pdf page 66 where it says that U1000 is either a break in the communication line itself or the ABS actuator and control unit which is what is making me think to change that part out.