xfixiate

I could be persuaded Since I posted it I have had the front suspensions arms replaced, and its now tracking straight. The rear subframe lower control arm support bracket is shaped like an inverted U and is bent in approximately 8mm. I was going to get it pulled out by the panel repair guys then exchange the panels. The coil pack unit at the back of the rocker cover is dead so it wont start.

Had an accident a year and a bit back, After accident tried to start it, wouldn't even kick so left it. Took plugs out, dropped a little oil and fuel in, cranked motor till oil pressure came up. Left plugs out for two days so it would dry. Plugs back in, wont start or even kick. Compression is fine, "Start Ya Bastard" makes no difference. Removed cleaned plugs etc again. They looked wet. Got ECUtalk up adn running again, ECU reported "no faults". Everything seems to be working (throtlle sensor/ open/closed, AFM have the same readings, etc) Reset the ECU, now it says "Error Reading codes". Any suggestions, I've been stuffing around with this for a week and its doing my head in.

Of course you can, the whole "Write off" register was developed to stop poor schmucks from buying cars that had been poorly repaired. You can repair anything with enough time, parts and most importantly MONEY. I will get it certified by the local panelbeaters though, so there is a certificate that it was done properly and not bogged up. Yes it would have been a good buy, but thankfully I managed to beg enough money to pay my rates, so I'm going to fix it and sell it for $18k instead. Interior chassis is undamaged, slight dent from the side impact in a webbing area, easy fix with fingers Parts needed so far: - right rear bottom suspension mount - right front bottom suspension mount - right front steering arm (part of rack, only has a slight bow, rather replace it than straighten it and have issues later) - rear interior plastic window trim drivers and passengers side (clips are buggered badly both sides, more age than damage). - drivers B pillar top section needs a tug out 7mm, rest is good - drivers interior top door frame munted, need replacing. It looks like roof section will mostly come back, its being held under tension by the A pillar. Now if the effin thing would just start, no faults on ECU, everything looks OK, cranks evenly, compression is good, start ya bastard does nothing so maybe the coil control unit has packed up? - drivers A pillar down to chassis is munted obviously).

Best thing to do is remove seats, then soak with CT18 Truckwash, the pressure wash it until it runs clear, hang the seats up in the garage on an angle (so it drains to a corner)for 2 days. Just did that to 100,000km of Nissan Patrol outback dust, they look new. Yes i know its an old post but this might help the next person that searches.

Front Right lower suspension arm. Mine bent on a gutter Not sure what else is bent yet but that defeintely is Front right guard Drivers Door pillar down to the rivets half way down the door and up to the roof. Complete roof section Got anything?

I Front Right lower suspension arm. Mine bent on a gutter Not sure what else is bent yet but that defeintely is Got anything? Front right guard, drivers door bits, did u flog the shell?

Nope, but Ill post one here, so you can publicly state its not a write off.... as soon as I figure out hwo to do it

United has it in Canberra, so does Shell I think. I sold my other GTR, dont have the $ to keep it maintained, but Ill be buggered if Ill give this one away for peanuts.

At a guess early twenties, and they were bankrolling it apparently... ... so many effin tyre kickers. ... one guy telling me yesterday I must have been doing at least 80km/h to do that to the car. "Wild Ride hey" One of those people that likes answering his own questions rather than listen to yours. ... another one came with a trailersaid yeah "no worries sounds good" then turned up offered me $4 grand. "Best I can do buddy" ... another turned up offered me $3 grand "yeah mate all I can afford at the moment". I had another look under neath, front left bottom suspension arm is bent back a bit, steering and everything else looks straight, so going to swap that over and take it for a wheel alignment and get them to check it on the hoist, find out exactly what is bent and how much. Then I think Ill fix it and flog it for $18 grand. With 100 octane and 300 kw.

Sold it and then the buyer changed his mind when he fronted up with his parents ( !! FFS !! ) best offer I've had is $5,500 so will let it go for that. My new project car is arriving in two weeks (1963 Ford Falcon Wagon) and I need the space.

Yes insured through Shannons, and bought back, its not on the register at all. Hhad a panel beater look at it yesterday, he reckons front tie rod is bent (they are apparently soft), no front chassis damage, unsure about the cradle but probably no damage, there's a small dent in the rear sill chassis rail but is not a fold, so will pull out. A right rear GTR cut, drivers pillar, and new roof, door trim/window, and front side windows. Rear cradle looks OK as well but cant tell until you get it on a hoist and measure it properly.

Put 100 octane in it, that was on 98

Yes I would if I parted it out, would be sad, but I'm located in a rural area and not easy for people to pickup parts. How much would it cost you to make a reliable 300kw gtr? Anyway I have an offer, hopefully not another BS artist.

11k in parts?

UNDER OFFER

Or get a car with intact drivers door pillar/roof, drill the spotwelds, they were all machine assembled so welds are in exactly the same place. Otherwise I will do it myself on the rotisserie.

Wire restraining barrier. Didnt flip. Slid into it, cops reckon someone oiled the road near the corner. Had just changed into second, was stopped at a set of traffic lights at a T intersection.

Wire restraining barrier. As I said. Impact was around 15km/h. Nose went under it, the wire took the momentum and swivelled the car sideways. It is repairable, talked to a panelbeater also a few guys at Wakefield. Parts are available from Japan, around $1700 in new roof, right rear, door pillar panels, $450 for a secondhand door and guard, $200 in bonnet repairs. $2000 in caraligner and another $3.5k in paint. Its a 300kw car, not a stockie. Or part it out and get around $11k in parts.

Batemans Bay, abt two hours east of Canberra

R32 GTR Japanese Import. With Australian compliance plate. Previously registered in Canberra Huge Trust intercooler, Z32AFM, Rays Engineering wheels, two are f*ed but the tyres are good (scuffed from track day at Wakefield) Whiteline suspension. Upgraded custom front disks and calipers. Spare disks and coilovers (n Fibreglass bonnet is scuffed but not cracked. Front bar was off the car and is intact/undaamged Upgraded turbos - dont know what they are, but there's a Garage Saurus ECU that came with the car, HKS boost controller. SARD Hard piping. Upgraded radiator, Tower struts, Body brace. Lots of goodies. . IS REPAIRABLE, NOT A WRITE OFF. But you would need new front right guard, Door, glass, and roof section. I was going to repair it but circumstances have changed. This car was making 299KW reliably and was leaner on fuel than my stock R32 GTR (which I have sold). Used to run at Wakefield on club days, and was quick. Has a lot of nice features including red skyline lettering inserts on the boot. Had $8000 on it, will take $6 grand cash, not a penny less, and will deliver for the cost of diesel. Cheesewire restraining barrier at around 15 km/h. Nose went under it, the bruises are from the wire inside the car. Dangerous stuff...

What did I do today? Sold my R32 GTR. $11k. Sigh.

DOWN TO $12,000 - must go. Also has Greddy Oil Filter relocation Kit. Just flushed radiator, fitted new battery (SuperCharge batteries are crap), just flushed and put in fresh fuel. Pretty sure I have fixed the handbrake issue.

Flushed the radiator, gave her a quick wash, replaced the top screws on the radiator, cranked and not firing properly, checked the coil packs, used a lot of start ya bastard, put fresh fuel in, replaced the battery, then she was purrrrrrring. They really need their 12v to start properly. Tomorrow, I'll put the new coolant in, give her a proper wash, then TRY to find a buyer.

PRICE DROP $12,750

PRICE DROP - $12,750