xfixiate

R32 GTR I have just about finished assembly and have two small dowels left over! >ah crap< Been following workshop manual and Nissan Fast diagrams. They are the same size as the two that hold the throttle bar on top of hte collector/plenum. They are shorter than the ones the go between the throttle bodies and the plenum. I originally took the water pump off, and ended up disassembling the entire intake side down to the block - had some leaking gaskets and dodgy water hoses. Even took thermostat off. if anyone knows where these two suckers go please let me know. I dont want to undo everything to find out. Thanks John

Effin CVnts

The air bleed screw (for radiator water in the balance tubes, up above the injectors) got overtightened by the last grease monkey, so when I went to undo it I had the end in my hand and the bolt stuck in the balance tube. So after dismantling the entire inlet sided, I drilled the stud out (dremels are great), finally got an easy-out to bite and removed it. Only to discover I had drilled through the stud, through the small space behind the stud, and into the sealed chamber behind which I am guessing is Air. Drill bit is very small, maybe 1.5mm diameter. is there ANY way can this be repaired reliably, or am I f*ed and now need to purchase a second hand one. If I can find one? Anyone got one?

What about the shell? With front glass and rear right quarter glass.... And front right guard... Or is this a "race only" import?

Having disassembed the intake side, I'm glad I did so. Half of the throttle body gaskets were leaking, its quite thin paper. Now onto the rebuild: 1. anyone have recommendations or aversions to throttle body and plenum gasket manufacturers? There are a couple of cheapies on ebay that look a lot more attractive than the standard paper thin ones that came off and were blown.. 2. Should I get the throttle body to head alloy interface part machined? It looks like #6 is a little recessed... 3. Should I used copper coat or any other suggestions on reassembly. I'm running about 8 psi boost, plan on fitting the Power FC so 13psi would be tops. She's a little tired R32. Oh, any suggestions on a cheap quality parts supplier would be appreciated. There are so many damn hoses and orings down there, the thought of the bil to replace them all is scary!

This is what you need to do: 1. Ignore all the posts above. Using oil can mask valve issues as well. 2. Get a "Leakdown" test done. This is where they bring each cylinder to TDC, and take the spark plug out and put in compressed air. 3. Remove oil filler, radiator cap, all spark plugs. Handbrake up, out of gear. 4. Rotate engine to bring first cylinder to TDC firing and inject compressed air into sparkplug (continuously) using a compressor. 5. If air blows out the rocker vent / dipstick / you have f*ed cylinders/bores/rings 6. If air blows out of coolant, you have head gasket problems or a cracked head 7. If air blows out of inlet side, you have bent/worn inlet valves. 8. If air blows out of exhaust, you have bent/burnt exhaust valves. 9. If air blows out of an adjacent spark plug, you have blown gasket (or air is coming out from valves being burnt/bent, but u will hear it in the pipes as well). 10. repeat for all 6 cylinders. if the results are consistent, the you have a consistently worn engine. So go looking for fuel/electrical issues. if you have one pot with stuck valves, then that will create misfires. If al the above looks good, you should also look for a stuck PCV valve and blown gaskets around the throttle bodies. you should be able to hear a pfft pfft noise... Good luck. BTW I made my own leakdown test fitting. Brazed a compressor fitting onto the bottom half of a spark plug..

If the diagram is not correct, cna someone please amend it / edit post so it *is* correct? I have a similar plumbing problem... my GTR has been mucked with. Diagram is good for those of us with a pile of parts on the table

Gawd that was hard work..... and what a load of tubes!!!!!!!!!!

Have decided to take the inlet side out completely, just to make sure, and do a plenum repaint and tidy up the engine bay

Excellent pic, just what I needed to see. Given it is an o-ring, if its torn it should be pretty obvious if it leaks... Cheers, and thanks again John

I managed to shear off the air/water bleed screw in the Balance Tube at last service. Just redone the water pump so now have to fix this. Undid the 5 hex bolts off the Balance Tube then after wiggling it I realised that the big tubes that feed it from underneath are completely inaccessible unless I dismantle the entire inlet side (plenum, throttle bodies). I can't see underneath, so I'm worried I have disturbed a gasket feeding water down. Can anyone advise me on whether I can/should just put the bolts back in? Or does someone have an RB26 balance tube that is removed from the assembly so I can get a good picture of the underneath side? Thanks John

Thanks for the advice, Ill check out RBook

Yes, correct, I know that. What would a Garage Saurus powered R32 go for? Add in the extra gear stripped from the shell that is AOK for spares/sale. EG Seats, bonnet, guard, lights etc Add in a Power FC plus bits (not needed necessarily) Less the cost/time/effort to transplant the. ... ... somewhere above $14, Id say...

I have NFI what they are worth at the moment. With the transplant in place, the good car would probably go for $25k plus strip the other for parts. But i dont have the time, so will take the best offer in the next 2 weeks. Or Ebay it with no reserve

Oh, they have both been stored in the garage, i rolled the damaged one out to dispose of furniture in the back (hence the mattress on the roof) the timber is fully sealed with silicon, no water has gotten into the car.

I have both my GT-Rs for sale. #1 Is a lightly modded 1989 model, I imported it from Japan. Has rebuilt turbos (steel wheel ball bearing) from Croydon Autosport. Stock except for cat back exhaust and HK pods. I think it has a dual plate clutch, its always been pretty grabby to use. The water pump is leaking, have purchased a new one, stock rims, tyres are getting low. One flat tyre (from sitting in the garage). It had around 180kw ATW. #2 is a Garage Saurus 1989 model. No idea what the turbos are. Garage Saurus ECU, Trust intercooler, SARD piping, Z32 AFM, bigger injectors, Full Whteline suspension, had 299kw ATW. Mid brace, front strut brace, HKS boost controller, finned diff, fibveglass bonnet, lots of things that are customised about this car. It unfortuantely met up with a cheesewire restraining barrier on Ginninderra/Coulter drive, which went up the bonnet and nearly cut me in half (at only 40km/h). Blundstone boots should not be worn when changing gears - sole came off and got caught under acc pedal. Anyway, it is rolling, two rims damaged, but is not repairable. Plan was to donor it into the first car, and sell the remainder. Some spares, disks, suspension. I also have, in the box, a brand new unused full power FC unit including hand controller and boost controller. Unfortunately I have to go overseas urgently, and it is totally uneconomic to store them. $250 a month, in the rain. Happy to answer any questions. Would prefer to sell as one unit, Im happy to take offers. If i dont get a reasonable ofer thens its probably ebay.; not a lot of time.

That will do nicely, send me an sms with address/contact details to 0410625834

That will do nicely, send me an sms with address/contact details to 0410625834

I need to shift my bent GTR from the storage place ASAP. I need at least one and preferably two wheels/tyres so I can get it on the tilt tray and roll into the garage. Since I have had no luck finding Standard R32 GTR rims Ill take anything including the stupid yellow narrow spare. Im in Canberra Cheers, john

I need a few rims to get the bent car on a tilt-tray. Had an unfortunate discussion with a cheese-wire restraining barrier. Either two stock rims for R32 GTR, or a set of 4 that will do the job (16,17or 18). I dont have deep pockets so no dreamers please. Im in Canberra, so local would be good...

Hi I want to get a measurement done on the chassis, and if its repairable then get the major straightening done before shipping the car back up to Darwin. Not worried about panel work/painting as there's plenty of time for that. I'm in Belconnen, local would be much easier. Please let me know your experiences (positive and neg). Thanks John

Hi Skyline went into a kerb, most of the front suspension is slightly bent (not hugely, but enough that its not salvageable). Occurred to me that installing adjustable suspension so if there are any hidden chassis gremlins they could be adjusted out. Its for a road car, so needs to be ADR approved. Can anyone recommend brands/setups/options? I don't have a huge budget. Cheers, John

I have just bought another R32 GTR, with some serious side damage. I just want to get it to the point where I can wheel it around and get it on a trailer. So I'm looking for any rim/tyres that will fit. The stud spacings are 5*114.3 which means mitsub falcon etc spacing is the same, but I have NFI whether the offsets/size etc will go on. It's just for moving around the garage, getting it on trailer etc, not for rego. If anyone has any suitable rims/tyres (even the yellow crappy spare) or if anyone knows what will fit and rotate please let me know ASAP Cheers, John

WTB R32 GTR front right guard, gunmetal would save some stuffing around. I'm in/around Canberra and South Coast of NSW. PM or reply. Cheers John

Any chance of a pic? (there was a part change in 1990)