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Des anyone have any Skyline suitable rims for sale/rent? I want to get my car on the road and get the others sent to Adelaide for repair.

Don't care about tyres - got good ones on existing rims.

Looking for two standard R32 GTR rims (don't want tyres - mine are new). Two of my rims are badly bent - jumps all over the dyno at hi-tech. John

Compression is 168. Can't see how it can be this high with badly worn or cracked rings. Not using oil or smoke. When turbos were stuffed there was a lot of gunk generated so I suspect a blocked PCV or some other part/tube around it that would normally take air from the sump and inject it into the inlets. Where is the PCV and any other bits that could be the culprit? Is the PCV cleanable or replaceable? I can't find it in FAST or the manual. Personally I'm confused about the PCV vs AAC valve arrangement

After putting the new turbos into the car, the oil dipstick is blowing out of the hole. Before I put the new turbos in, I made sure the compression was OK and even in the engine (168psi when 171psi is the upper limit). Standard turbos, rebuilt to steel wheel and ball bearing specs. I'm wondering whether the Exhaust Gas Recirculation system might be blocked - a look through Nissan Fast has me confused about where the valves are and what might be happening. The AAC valves also sem to have soemthing to do with this - buggered if I can figure it out. Tuner reports the car is currently making about 170rwkw on 9psi boost, so I'd like to check that the crankcase ventlation system is OK before worrying about possible broken or rolled piston rings. Could someone please give me an idea on how to check this part of the system, and what parts might be gunked up or blocked?? Cheers, John

I would check your turbos. I had a blown turbo on my r32 GTR and had 10 types of crud in everything (and lots of smoke). Also sounds like your o2 sensors might not be working correctly. Have you connected up a dx computer to your ECU? The miss and carry on you are seeing is typical of a warped head. Only leaks when under pressure. Not bleeding the air out of the top of the head on radiator fill will cause this as well. Got air bublles coming up the radiator cap when revving engine? blown gasket. Get a leakdown test done. results will be: - bubbles in radiator - blown to water - air coming out of engine vent - bad pistons - air coming out of exhaust - burnt/bad exh valves - air out of inlet - bad/bent inlet valves - air coming out of neighbouring cyclinder - blown gasket.

For anyone that has had trouble finding a socket that will change the Oxygen Sensor on a Skyline, I think this one from Snapon might do the trick. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/pro_det.asp...ore&dir=catalog Seems to be the only 17mm one I can find. The standard ones from the shops etc are 22mm

Have new oxygen sensors for the R32 GTR - but I have no idea whether the square plug is the front or rear sensor. The manual on Page EN225 the top diagram says both sensors are "Exhaust gas sensor rear". Handy. The para underneath says that the one that goes to pin 29 of the ECU is the front. But in the consult display, pin 29 comes up as "EXH GAS SENS-R" Fer fecksake. :kick: PAGE en226 saysa that the square connector is the front. Page EN 239 says pin 29 goes to the front o2 sensor, and EN242 says pin 55 is the rear (making more sense). The diagram looks like square is the front, but I've got such a shitty photocopy of that page I can't tell. On balance, it looks like square is the front one, but I'd rather ask soemeone that has one than f*up the engine (and $400 in sensors). Could someone with an R32 GTR please confirm that the square connector is hooked up to the front o2 sensor, and the flat 3 pin one is the rear o2 sensor? John

If I was you I'd be putting a piece of mesh in front of that oil cooler. One decent rock..... Anyone had any joy with an R32 GTR fitting yet (Cooler only). with the HICAS pump (?) near the filter fitting I think it's going to be almost impossible to get on an early R32 GTR. Took me twenty minutes to get the filter on (and another 15 minutes of cursing for not fitting a remote kit at the time)

Bought 2nd hand EGT from from JMS Adelaide for $60 incl freight. Beats $400 for new. Screws are $1.50 each new - still probably need a few. Also need those slide-on clips that the 10mm bolts go into to hold up the plastic inner skirt. they are out of production - got a couple of pathfinder ones coming up to see if they will fit but if anyone has some around I could use a few

I'm after an working Exhaust Gas Temp sensor assembly and some odd screws etc ? I need the whole sensor from the cat to the plug inside the car. The EGT from any R32 is apparently OK (according to Nissan FAST). Seems to be any R32 RB20,26 engine, and the RB25 non turbo. R33 GTR has the same sensor, but not any of the other R33 engines. Also A31, K30 and C33. Dya know of anyone else up here that has wrecked an R32 and might have one? John

I checked my EGT sensor last night and discovered it has been cut off with a hacksaw and the cables hidden backup in the bodywork. Car is a 89 BNR32 GTR. Turbos were blown when it arrived and I haven't yet got it back on the road (this is the last thing holding me up). Is this a problem? What is the consequence of not having the sensor fitted? How does it interact with the standard ECU? John

So you are saying that you have a 1994 R32, with an engine number around 45400. And the motor appears to be be genuine? What month/year of build? These dates are critical to narrowing down variants in sensors etc. A guess of 1993 doesn't help me (much) as there were at least two variants in 93

Why is that? Where did you look? What info do you have?

Thanks for your replies so far. MY chassis is an R32 so the HICAS suff will be under the engine. Mind you something powers up under the car's rear when ignition is turned on (not fuel pump) so I might have a look tonight. An oil filler cap can be changed and isn't a reliable piece of information. Still looking for solid information : This will help me narrow down the engine range. It could have been bare-blocked for all I know, so Engine Number to build date comparison is the only way to go

No pictures handy. It's not a red cover, so not R34. Nissan Fast doesn't cover Engine Numbers (AFAIK - I've got it).

I've got a problem with my GTR which a quick poll with some other GTR owners might help narrow down the answer. My car is an August 89 R32 model, which is apparently running an ECU from the Feb 93 R32 (using PLMS and Nissan Data Scan). My chassis number is around the BNR-002600 mark, but the Engine Number is in the low 37700 range (eg RB26 037700A). I'd really like to know what car (r32, R33 R34) this particular motor is out of, so I can work out some funky wiring, ECU voltages, and the sensors I shoudl have vs do have. I've got detonation going, dead o2 sensors and and exhaust and AAC valves that lock up the scanning software. I need to get it working correctly, and to do that I need to know what my car is likely to be and what I can look for (comapre part numbers etc). If you own a GTR, and you're pretty sure your engine is genuine, would like to hear your: - Build date as YYMM (eg 9302) - Approx Engine number (rounded up or down to the nearest 10 will do) - Car series (r32, R33 etc) This will help me narrow down when my engine was built, and in turn will help me make sure I buy the correct sensors for my car. I don't really want to bugger another set of turbines. Unless of course anyone can reverse lookup an engine number and trace it back to a car? Cheers, and TIA John

$137 including the Nissan Data Scan sw. There is a "Conzult_freeware" version that is free so you could save $25. You are asked to pay using PAYPAL which means converting to USD and adding $6USD for the paypal fee. No direct deposit. See http://www.plmsdevelopments.com It's either that or about $400 for the other version, or you can build up your own for free. For $100 with a serial cable, It's pretty good. For me, it's given me enough to work out a few other problems. If I need new AFMs I'll probably just buy the Apexi power fc as it adapts to the Z32 meters and lets me control other variables (like stopping test pilots at every workshop).

I got the PLMS interface with the Nissan Data Scan . Plugged in and worked with no mucking around as advertised. 2nd AFM on the BNR32 may not be working correctly - Tom from Nissan Data Scan is looking into it and I'll be testing it again on the weekend. Confirmed I had two dead o2 sensors (one shorted, one open circuit). All I need now is something to compare the outputs to!

I've bought one from PLMS - will let you know how it goes

Anyone in Darwin got a Consult interface i can check my car with? The ECU wiring has been mucked with and several sensors are disconnected so want to work out wtf is going on....

I'm confused about the Power FC and which Apexi Boost Controller to interface to it. I read that the PFC will "learn" how shard and when it can boost the engine , but then I hear that all of this has to be configured manually through the controller. With a couple of different Apexi boost control units available and most of the info in Japanese I'm now totally confused. Anyone *know* what the configuration and options are? I'm looking at installin the PFC on an R32 GTR but don't want to waste time/money on the upmarket boost controller if it is not required....... is there an Idiot's guide around? I've put in some strong turbos and want to get more out of them, but not at the expense of damage to engine... Cheers, John

Universal EL Falcon $100 new each from Petrojet. But since no-one can seems to know the mapping between them, then how dya know that the voltage going back from the EL isn't read by the GTR CPU as too rich and the mixture is leaned up? Burn your valves out or blow a piston to save a couple of hundred bucks? I'd use them if I could get the data, or be able to talk to someone that has dynoed the EL Falcon ones on an R32 GTR and looked at the results.... Matts would be 2nd hand? Since they are supposed to be replaced every 40kkm I think I'll be buying new ($400 for both)

I need a couple of steering feed pipes from a HNR32 (GTS4 Rb20DET Turbo) or BNR32 (R32GTR). Mine has been bashed to bu*gery. Anyone got one?

Car is back together and running quite well. (WOOT!) I've put Helix Synth in it to give it a rinse, and will junk it in favour of MOTUL or redline. Also need to change the diffs gearboxes etc. Anyone know where I can get either Redline or MOTUL in Darwin? Also discovered that the front left towhook is separated from the chassis rail. I need to get the chassis checked. Anyone recommend a workshop that will do a good price / good quality for non-insurance work? John