Erop

Scott, how do you run your F-con, what options do you mean useful? do you have separate EGT and UEGO systems, or HKS ones, wired to F-con? i have camp2 installed already, so i don't want to have any gauge on panel, but want to run safely)

all the rest is in stock - it's not a problem, just pay)) pain is the only qualified tuner lives in 9000 km away from me)

i've just bought the rarest HKS NP5-15 F-con harness, used but tested! happy as crazy, looking for it almost 3 years!! got if for 320USD

thats right, i'll drill somt bulges)

they are different, shurely S2 one S1 so i do like S2 much more) will look for S2 AR-X one) i don't want to put AXIS one

very nice look! viewing your pics i've first time wondered- S2 M35 has another rear bumper than S1 does! have anyone fitted S2 AR-X rear bumper to S1? it seems to me it should sit in properly

i've got it as a present from my ebay buyer) here they are http://page3.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/c418036124 i like it looks with dolphin grille and face, stock doesn't fit this style

it is easy to remove - just use plastic tools like this : the fasteners have "locks", but i don't remember, should you put in from bottom. or from top, unfortunately use aerowarmer, it's best friend in such deals - never break once plactic is warmed. it you don't have garage's one, take wife's, until she doesn't know)))

so the best way is to combine cooling mod and swirl tank) i told to my mechanic, he told we will weld custom tank before the summer, to put it conviniently and high in room. now it's time for winter racing with no chance of overheating (-25 outdoors), engine is warmed with coat on top and carton around the interlooler (air goes only through it)

on NM35 doors there are lots of rectangle holes, 2 or 3 also have the front fender. so you have to weld em) i got them painted, but still want to remove

what diameter hose is used? are fittings AN10 or AN12 size?

thank you for the reply! few days ago i've seen nice shot- in the place of bleeding valve the breather tank is installed! with the cooling mod this should be very effective, won't it? on the cooling mod - the overheated water moves to cabin heater, is it? may be it would be effective to make Y-connection (water feed and block out on top, heater input in bottom), not T-one, like now, how do you think? i know, it's hard to place in engine room, do we need in it? this one is has VQ35DET, take a look at a whole car, it seems interesting to me http://injapan.ru/auction/e142404508.html#lot_images

Nice work! Inspired by this thread! Could you please tell, or show thread, what controlled the ignition and fuel before the F-con? i've read about e-manage, was it equipped with another AFM? do you run just MAP or MAF also? more info on ECU side. please! FYI, VQ30DET also have cooling mod parts for VQ25DET, ready-to-install, same as pathfinder's, may be it will help in looking for this parts)

it's an awful lack of dragstrips now - so we don't have proved times at all, also our community is times smaller than yours - so legal drag is just for rich men, illegal street racing is not my choice) i'm official in Russiam Drift Series, it is prohibited by our rules, to race on streets in any kind we have web-site with the only legal drag group - http://www.dragtimes.ru/en/results/allresults#quarterofmile there is one Stagea at the same time - our government almost prohibited to buy used cars abroad by huge taxes, so far away we will loose wonderful JDM cars at common uprev is good for vq35 - we have one CPV35 skyline on vq25det kit with bigger turbo, it is nicely driven with LHD oem later ecu from z33, and owner tells it is ultimatively versatile and reliable, your right

i still run oem-like IMPUL ECU. leks-auto(probably, you know him) runs F-con others run stock-like nismo, impul, mines now lookig for decision on this field, cause have lots of plans on the car. mechanical fabrication is easy with good team, but our ECU is a piece of hedache.. this affects M35's only we already have 2001 axis with vq35de swapped on stock vq25det loom&injectors&afm&ecu (hydravlical cam's controllers are re-pinned, and they are controlled almoust correctly), this car extremely needs in ecu, mine is also waiting in bigger turbo, but we are at loss in this question... may be there is a thread in ECU replacement? as for me, i plan to install Halteck platinum 2000 in piggy-back style, to save A/C and so on the main problem is in AT - once it loose AFM signal, it is going to be mad, loosing plate's pression, lack of clutch in it during recievig big torque from engine - overwear in minutes. i don't know what to do with this. may be you have already solved, how to trick it?

this switch is only marked with PS-20 the WAKO doesn't sell less than 1000 pcs now looking for byuing this switch, still no exact code, Scott's right BUT - you may take it from R32-R34, Laurels, Glorias - their ATTESSA is similar in such parts, and their used spares are cheaper in my mind - the reason is lack of changing of this fluid, which causes mechanical problems in winter, cause my one (350K on odo since 2001) still works, i replace the ET-S fluid every year

thanks a lot, found thread, but pics not avialble anymore( http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/422356-my-m35-stagea-build-thread/

you may be interested - in cold Russia the most suspicious part of ATTESSA is used to be the pressure control switch, which causes C1208 error reading this is one of this crap pieces it's not aviable to order from Nissan separately we have found the replacement one - http://wako-clinac.co.jp/product_en/ps-20_en/index.html the thread is metric M10*1.25 length of thread 10mm (2.5mm O-ring)

very, very nice car! do you have a build thread? i'm wondered how to install R35 seats into M35 (now riding on Z33 seats, was quiet hard to install driver's one)

used KINUGAWA flanges&clamp (with centering o-ring), autobahn88 O2sensor plug

i'd like to continue showing Russian fabrication if it is allowed to puplic such dirty cars (we have annoying dirt on all-the-road surface) finished with exhaust parts with V-band clamps flange during fitting

this car is not mine, it's owner is OlegARX (real name - Oleg =) ) my one wears unique front with original S1 headlights. We fitted AERO with AR-X http://www.drive2.ru/cars/nissan/stagea/stagea_m35/erop/

one enthusiast in Russia made a great job it's not close to you, because our oils are too different, even when they have same names but it's GREAT. use google translate and look at pics. take a pleasure at looking i found this one some months ago, and happy that run the Aimol 5-40 oil since 2008 on my third Stagea now. 240000 km on it on current car. http://bmwservice.livejournal.com/27699.html?page=8&cut_expand=1

Sorry for different pic size!

Hello, Guys!! reading this forum for years, would be pleased to help its habitants! here, i hope, i will show all about M35 S1 to S2 front conversion. First, we have nicely converted AR-X and AXIS now just AR-X: (owner - OlegARX, nismo-club.ru) video S2 bonnet on S1 car Result more photos here http://www.nismo-club.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=37609&view=findpost&p=1062191349 and here http://www.nismo-club.ru/forum/index.php?showtopic=94350&view=findpost&p=1062189182 The next part to change is front part of dust protector (we call it locker) The final point is difference in color and material of widebody parts also i'we seen pics of S1 headlights in S2 car hope you find it useful!