dojobi

It's an art, isn't it? I've never been able to get a decent recording of an exhaust note that didn't sound like it was underwater, or tinny.

There's nothing wrong with Link ECUs. The tuner is the primary factor in how the car will run with an aftermarket ECU, not the ECU itself (unless it is a really limited one). They're used everywhere in NZ, so I'm sure the computer is fine. I'd head to Sydney.

Sorry, yeah I should have been a little clearer. I meant to say that it's very easy to get a dodgy kit, but there are good kitted cars out there that look like OEM setups. I'm sure yours is one of them.

I think the sedans have the same HIDs as the coupes. Both are available with halogens too. You really need the OEM lights as I've seen such terrible light patterns from kit upgrades on cars that weren't meant to have HIDs. I haven't seen one of these kits in an R34, but from what i've seen in Cefiros, Skylines and Supras, they look terrible and only give glare to oncoming traffic rather than decent lighting. I've got a pic somewhere on my computer of the light pattern from a kit. If I can find it I'll post it.

Yeah I also thought it'd be about twice the size. It's funny how we both got that impression from the pics.

Mine just arrived too. Thanks Shaun. Feedback coming your way. BTW what was the verdict on whether these cats are coated or not? That other thread has spooked me since I bought this to reduce emissions, not because I didn't want to get fined.

There's a group buy on for Magic Cats for $210 delivered right now. I bet you'd notice no performance difference whatsoever with the straight through pipe and this cat. Here's the link if you do decide to go for one - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=75711

Thanks for that disco. You've cleared up heaps for me. I never knew there was any actual logic in the numbers. I always just thought they were model numbers. The reason I asked for the next size down was, as you had guessed - because the number 30 scared me . I have always associated anything above 28 as a lag monster, but your post definitely has set me straight there. You certainly know your turbos inside and out, btw. Cheers, Michael

Here's a bit more info for you actually - http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/t...r%2F1jz_gte.htm

I couldn't find out the rod centre length, but the bore x stroke is 86.0×71.5. Thanks for the info on the 3071. I'm a little worried that it would be too big a turbo for what I'd want, though. What's the next size down, but not mismatched?

4100k is the brightest and is what all the OEMs fit. The closer to 4100k the better for light output. 4100k still looks blue when you pass them on the roads though, so don't think that you need high temperatures to get the cool look. Check out http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/ for info on HID retrofits/kits. They're generally pretty against kit upgrades on that site and more into retrofits btw.

Nice post disco. It'll take me a while to decode all that, but I'm sure it's worth it Very very slightly off topic, but would you recommend the same setup for a VVTi 1JZ? They're very similar to the RB25 Neo, but just thought I'd confirm. If I did go for an aftermarket turbo, I'd be after a maximum of 250rwkw or so with the least amount of lag possible.

I hadn't even considered the heat difference. I guess that's why we need our drainpipe sized exhausts then BTW $300 is a bargain for a Magic Cat. I think I might have to pick one up.

Maybe I'm not really too well versed in this sort of thing. Now that I think about it, I'd assume the hydrogen and carbon in the petrol would turn into gas form after being burnt, so you'd need quite a bit more flow area on the exhaust side.

Well I suppose if the air goes in, it has to go out.

Nice work on doing it. I know so many people who are too scared to try this kind of stuff. When I did it I loved it too. I think I must have had a blank spot in my memory (total fear / panic?) as the free fall bit was over so quickly. Then there was the long glide down to Earth where you're just thinking "I just jumped out of a plane!" .

That would be a problem with the stock ECU, but I'm pretty sure the Power FC can handle that. I know the SAFC can, so the PowerFC would too.

No idea actually. I've always been in the Nissan world, so haven't really seen many Toyota AFMs. My Chaser will really just be a fast family 4 door. I might go to the track one day, but no drifting for me. It's an auto though, so not really suited to track work. Celica - that's quite a rare car you've got there. Manual non-VVTi Soarers are hard enough to find! I can't see why the Q45 AFM should cause any problems, but it is worrying to hear that it isn't going so well. I just assumed if I went for high power I'd just get a bigger AFM like you did. The Q45 is the biggest I know of too, so even if the Z32 worked, it wouldn't be as good a solution as the Q45.

Yeah, that's going to be a bit of a challenge I think. I don't know if it will allow it or not, but a 90mm Q45 AFM might work. I'm not planning on going too big with my mods so that should work for me. When you run out of resolution on that I really don't know what you would do. I wonder why they changed from MAP in the TT 1JZ. Ahh32 - they're nice dynos, aren't they. Those pics are what made me like the VVTi 1JZ in the first place. So much potential.

Yeah. The red Traum one looks like it has a debadged Tourer S grille, and the gold one looks like a debadged Tourer V grille. The pics are pretty small though, so it's a bit hard to tell. The S has some horizontal chromed bars on it whereas the V doesn't.

It's such a shame your car isn't the dark green, as I've got a TRD grille on mine that I don't particularly want. I think the stock one suits it best (Everyone in Japan seems to disagree with me though ) I think I'll just buy one on Yahoo Japan. They go for next to nothing.

Ahh32 - Yeah, my km probably are accurate, it's just that I've seen so many wound back odometers that I don't know what to believe anymore. I know they use more public transport in the big cities, but not all the cars come from there. Also, if you get a car from a big city with low genuine km, then you can be pretty sure it's been sitting in traffic for the majority of them. I'd rather a higher number, but have a car that had been a highway cruiser most of its life. btw I'd be pretty happy with a measly 270rwkw from a GT-RS atticus - search for these words on Google to find stuff on chasers (or speak to Vindicare. He has seen every page ever created on JZXs ) I may have got the translations wrong as I don't speak Japanese, but they're good enough translations to find pages. Toyota = トヨタ Mark II = マークII Cresta = クレスタ Chaser = チェイサー (I think) Tourer = アラー JZX100 = always good for finding interesting pages 1JZ & 1JZ-GTE = good for engine related stuff I then run them all through http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/ I don't know if you use Firefox instead of IE or not, but I use an extension for that which lets you translate a page from the right click menu. Otherwise, you'll have to load the babelfish page up each time you want to translate. Also there's plenty of good stuff on Yahoo Auctions Japan. Cheers, Michael

hehe sorry about that. They're probably real km if it's close to 15,000 a year or so. I just checked mine - 73,000km. That seems a little low to me, but I'm so paranoid about import odometers

Those are quite good prices. I've never taken any notice of the mileage on imports, so I don't know what sort of impact it makes on the price. In fact, I wouldn't have a clue how many km my Chaser has done. I just don't trust Japanese odometers at all A 2835 is a good match for the VVTi 1JZ. I was considering a GT-RS for mine (WAAAY in the future though - I've got no money any more ). I'd say your power estimates are quite achievable though.

haha I've got the PFC, but I'm waiting for the car I got the boost control kit for it so it'll be interesting to see how your SBC i-D goes. I've got no idea how far you can turn the boost up on these cars. I read on some Japanese site that one guy was running 1.1 Bar, but I've got no idea if that is safe or not. BTW I bought mine by negotiating with the buyer after the auction had closed too.