180 wanabe

+ 1 for the A1RM Use these on the front of my V35, work perfectly when cold and keep on working when they get hot As good as the Ferodo DS2500 which I have also used in the past without the price If you ever think that there is even a slim chance that you may take your car to the track get the A1RM you wont be sorry

Even if you turn off VDC your going to have a hard time doing a burnout in an auto V35 Reason being is as a safety feature When you press the accelerator and the break pedal at the same time, the the engine has its power cut to about 20%. Why you ask? well remember not so long ago all those people in Toyotas in the US who had their cars accelerator jam and then ended up driving along at 100mph+ to their deaths as they were too stupid to turn the key to the off position or move the gear stick into neutral. Most cars these days have engines powerful enough to overpower the brakes and as the brakes get hotter unless your running high temp pads the less they work. The whole idea is that if your pedal gets jammed as soon as you press the break pedal the engine has its power reduced to a level that the brakes are able to deal with and slow the car down Now you wonder how dose one bypass this in order to do a burnout? Pull off the fuse box kick panel in the car and remove the brake light fuse, now this may take some trial and error if you cant read Japanese Once the fuse is removed the car wont know that you are pressing the break pedal and allow 100% of the cars power to be used As you may notice by my avatar I may have had some experience doing this myself

On a cold start 1st thing in the morning mine will fire up to 2000 rpm and then drop straight down to 1500 rpm, in gear it will be idling around 1000rpm, the click you guys are taking about is a common thing with V35s just do a search on it

Hey guys I just realized that I will be going to trance wars on Friday night which means I wont be waking up until somewhere around midday on Saturday so Im sorry but I wont be able to come

They don't sound like CD's, pretty ordinary sound quality especially when you don't have an FM expander which limits what stations you can use I found that one of those old school tape adapters that plugs into your 3.5m jack on whatever your device is gives practically the same sound quality as if you were using an AUX input. Will save you a bit of dosh as well as they cost less than the FM transmitter

Will see you guys at BP yatala

Be prepared to get ripped $1000 for a stock 350z from a wrecker also i dont think the 250gt is the same diff as the vq35 equipped car

Thanks for the post Nismo I found niss4x4 last night didn't know they had V35's until I had a look just then. I paid for and asked them to send me the short stub axle out of one of the 350zs at about 4pm today. Hopefully they haven't pulled it out of the 350 as I'm still not 100% sure if its even the part that I need Have quickly shot them an e-mail and asked them to pull out the shorter stub axle from one of the VQ35 powered V35s instead. Will give them a call in the morning to follow up the e-mail I sent In other news I got a call today from my mother telling me that the auto box in her S13 had gone BOOM! whilst driving 500m away from her house. The workshop she went to wanted $1500 to replace it what a joke! 2nd hand auto SR boxes go for free to $500

As some of you may know I've been having lots of fun with my car lately To get my car back on the road I need a replacement stub axle, to be precise I need the shorter of the 2 stub axles, anyone got one I could buy or know where I could get one as I'm not having any luck with the wreckers that I have called so far I'm sightly baffled as to how I have ended up in this situation to begin with Now to recap why I am baffled My cars an auto V35 which "should" have been running an open diff just like every other V35 auto out there. Im pretty sure that my old diff was an open one because of the way it behaved around corners and how it seemed to light up one of my rear tyres when I took off quickly from a standstill With that in mind I ordered a Quaife diff that was suited to the US base spec 350z which runs an open diff just like my car or so I thought When the diff arrived and the install went ahead I ran into a problem where the longer stub axle was too long to fit into the new Quaife center and after searching the net came across Quaifs own solution of chopping off part of the longer axle to make it fit. Which up until now has worked fine With more research it seems that the US base spec 350z which runs an open diff uses 2 equal length stub axles that fit perfectly into the quaife diff that I ordered to be a drop in replacement The VLSD models run 2 different length stub axles in which case you order the diff for the VLSD equipped car and it bolts right up with the different length axles or you get the diff for the open diff 350z and do the chop on the longer stub axle like I ended up doing or you buy a shorter stub axle from a open diff 350z and replace the longer stub axle with the shorter one Whats got me scratching my head is why has my auto V35 got the same stub axles as a VLSD equipped car ? Anyone else got an auto V35 and pulled out the diff and noticed what the stub axle situation is?

Pretty close except I ordered the diff for the US poverty spec 350z which has an open diff so in theory it should have just bolted in given my car is an auto and also runs an open dif from the factory. However for one reason or another my drop in replacement needed to have the right stub axle chopped down as it was too long. After scouring the net it seemed to be a pretty normal thing that a lot of people had ran into. From what I can make out it looks like the axle has "poped" out when the install was happening the better option would have been to get a axle from a 350z wreck and use it instead Anyhow over the next few days i'll find out one way or another. I told the diff shop about the install and the chop down/350z axle etc Its been about 30k after the install happened with a few track days and a couple of large skids laid down

well cars been dropped off at Aussie Diffs in Currumbin, now to wait n see

Found the culprit Jacked the car up by the diff turned on the engine put into drive and tailshaft is moving which means gearbox is ok - shame about the times its had to grind when going into park though :S checked out the diff and found the culprit

Ok so after a day of thinking and talking to a couple of customer at work who were mechanics im thinking that the problem may be related to my diff install. I had to get one of the stub axles chopped down when the new diff center was installed. I have the day off work tomorrow so I will jack the car up from the diff and put jack stands under the rear to see if the tail shaft is moving when the car is in gear. If it is then I know that the box is ok the problem is with the diff.

No clunks or bangs, the car just smoothly disengage into no gear at all was doing 100 on the hwy cruising along just noticed the revs rise and the car slowing down. Only noises are when i go to put it into park after I have tried drive and reverse is a mechanical grinding noise like gears grinding for 1 second then it's silent

hmm yellowpages brought up these guys http://www.yellowpages.com.au/qld/burleigh-heads/burleigh-automatics-11975654-listing.html?context=businessTypeSearch&referredBy=www.yellowpages.com.au anout 4ks from where I live and also looks like they offer free local towing. Just paid $170 to get from springwood to palm beach This is prob more a QLD thing but anyone heard anything about them?

There is a "general" workshop about 5 mins drive away from where I live, might ride my moto there and see if they have a scan tool and how much they would want for someone from the shop to quickly pop around to my house plug it into the car and see what codes/any come up

Hmm u think most gearbox shops would have a scan tool these days ?

Was on my way back to the Gold Coast this morning after spending the night at my girlfriends place in Brisbane. Got to about where the old ikea is on the hwy and I noticed that the car felt like into shifted into neutral. Revs lifted and speed was going down. I pulled over on the side of the hwy to find that I had no gears at all. Put the car into park and it made a bit of a grinding noise. Park dosent seem to work as the car would roll back without the hand break on. Any gear that the car is put in feels like neutral with no movement. Before this happened the car had been running fine, no problems downshifting or going into reverse. There was no unusual noises or vibrations when the incident happened Car is the 5 speed auto not the 8 speed cvt The car runs a seperiate tranny cooler rather than going through the radiator I had the trans fluid changed at 65k and topped up with Nissan trans fluid when I had the cooler fitted at about 80k car now has 110k on the clock Any ideas ?

Didn't look that had did you http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/335579-open-diff-be-gone/page__p__5558228__hl__quaife__fromsearch__1#entry5558228 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/346100-f*king-diff/page__p__5576886__hl__quaife__fromsearch__1#entry5576886

I usually get between 500-600ks from a tank depending on how much hwy driving I do

what brakes are on the car?

Well I not sure why your having that problem, Im thinking that I might pay a visit to Gavin wood in the not too distant future as he has all the fancy scan tools to work out what exactly is going on Im thinking that you might have to do the same or go to a willing Nissan dealer and have them plug in whatever their tool is "consolt" I think is what its called

Might swap the sensors around and see if it makes any difference

Well guys as some of you may have read from another post I created I have been having issued with my cars ABS SLIP VDC lights coming on the dash The problem is intermittent in that sometimes "rarely" I could do a whole drive to Brisbane from the Gold Coast without the lights coming on. Where as other times when the ABS dose its self check usually once the car has been turned on and gotten up to 10kph it will then start pumping the pedal and make lots of noises from the front drivers side whilst at the same time the speedo wont be moving or is not displaying the proper speed. The problem has become progressively worse over time I was told by the local brake shop who hooked up a scan tool to the car that the front drivers side ABS speed sensor was throwing a fault code. So I got a 2nd hand one off a 350Z from a wrecking yard posted up to me, I switched the sensor over last night and took the car for a 400M drive around the block and everything seemed to be going perfect, ABS was working and no funny noises Anyhow in the morning when I went to work I got no further than the end of the street "100m" before the lights came back on as the pedal started making its funny noises I noticed when I changed the sensor last night that it might read the speed of the wheel by magnetic fields or something as there was no COG/gear just a flat bit of metal that sits close to the inside of the wheel hub/baring I also noticed it looked rather rusty/dirty where the wheel hub/thing was spinning near the sensor so I am going to pull it off again in the next day or to and try and scrape/clean some of the crap off and see if that fixes the problem I was so pissed off after having switched the parts and thinking that everything was going to be FINALLY sorted particularly after the drive around the block. If I didint install the sensor properly one would think that the warning lights would come on straight away when the car was turned on/driven around the block

Your going to want to put a LSD in the car if your going to have that sort of power, unless you enjoying frying one wheel when you hammer it on take off