180 wanabe

Running a Nismo, although not sure if its from the Y pipe back or cat back anyway sounds good but theres a little bit of rasp when its cold. Dont think id want it much louder but it dosent drone @ 100kph which is good

Never bothered with these before, my 180sx busted its engine mounts when it was throwing out 308rwkw but a set of nismo ones fixed that doubt the VQ35 in its NA form is going to give the stock mounts any problems

Wondering about how many Ks what went wrong for those of you who have been unlucky enough for one of the above or something else to go bust on you, would be interesting to see if this is a age of the part or an amount of use "ks" related thing. As my car has somewhat higher ks than other V35s out there yet im only starting to have issues now The reason Im asking is because my car now has 84k, I purchased it with 50k. Up until a couple of weeks ago I had never had a problem with the car until the drivers side window motor decided to give up Sure enough as some of you may have read I ended up fixing the problem by cleaning the motor and putting everything back together Now the last couple of days I have noticed that my drivers side door has not been locking/unlocking all the time when using the remote on the key I pulled the door apart again today to see if any of the lock cables had come undone but everything was in its place Iv read up on the net and again like the window this seems to be yet another common problem for G35/V35s

I have randomly decided to come Might try and talk some of you into coming out to some QR sprints sessions

What aftermarket front camber arms did you install? Been thinking of getting a set for the front of my car as Queensland raceway has lots of high speed right hand turns which cause the tyres on the left side of my car to ware excessivley on the outside. Dialing in some camber would even out the treadware

Guess im just that lucky, will b interesting to see how long it lasts. Got the new one on order anyway

Its not all that hard, check out the step by step guide in the link that I posted Im by no means savvy when it comes to pulling cars apart but if youv got an afternoon off, some cotton bud tips and some metho/brake cleaner youv got nothing to loose by cleaning the old motor. If your lucky it will come back to life for you. Iv still got the new motor coming as I dont know how much life a revived old one will have. In the meantime I can @ least drive my car without the hassel of having the window glass being too high to close the door unless someone helps from the outside. I dont think you will need a regulator Oh and BTW for anyone else reading. My window started to go on the fritz about 2 weeks before it completley died "as in would work sometimes and then other times not at all" so be ready if this is happening to you now On a side note the revived motor now goes up and down faster than the live passanger side

Hi guys My drivers side power window motor packed it in last week Window was all the way up which I guess was good only bad thing is closing the door had to be done from outside the car as the glass is too high to close the door without it scraping the plastic trim Anyhow I called up the local nissan dealer who wanted $600 RRP or $510 trade I promptly went on ebay and bought a new motor for $179 + 23 postage I had a look on google and found a good DIY guide on how to change the window motor at G35 driver here Problem with buying stuff from the states is that it takes at least a week to get here I decided to try the DIY guide and clean the motor with some brake cleaner and some cotton bud tips After about 3 hours... "please note that im not mechanically minded, should take anyone with 1/2 an idea no more than 1 1/2 to 2" I had the motor out, cleaned up and everything back together working! When the new motor comes from the states ill hold onto it until the cleaned up one gives up again

I hope your compliance workshop actually changed the oil.... Im pretty sure that the one who did my car didint drop the oil

I know my V35 coupe has one fitted from the factory

You could use regular ulp if you wanted to, im sure the ecu would just retard the timing to compensate. Iv run 95 with no problems in the past, although I normaly put in 98. I have also put in 98E10 out of desperation once and the car ran fine on that

They did make the car a bit stiffer... but it was nothing compared to the change in stiffness I noticed when going whiteline swaybars in my S13 Have them set on soft front and med on the read, any stiffer on the front and I think understeer would become a pain in the ass The diff has made the car a lot more fun to drive, going around corners in the wet has become a pleasure rather than a pain! also no more lighting up one wheel when taking off at the lights Havent been to a dry track day yet with the new diff but when taking it somewhat easy in the wet I was lapping what I what I used to lap in the dry when giving it everything I had, Im hopeing for a 1 to 2 second improvement in times around the QR sprint track in 2011

Had whiteline swaybars fitted front and back on my V35, didint notice a huge difference in body roll with the stock springs/shocks I did find that the VDC would kick in earlier than it used to when going around corners with a bit of pace

I use 19" as my street rims and 18" as my track

no idea of my offset but im running 19 x 10 on the back with no issues not sure on the fronts think they are the same or 19 x 9.5 but they come dam close to the suspension whilst allmost filling out the guard I know that my 18 x 9.5 +20 track rims stick out a the front just a tiny bit

No idea check out my avatar for an idea LOL from outside the windows look the same colour so the tints dark

Been through the booz/drug bus before but the cops never paid any attention to the car, just blew in the bag and then on my way My cars got tint on the windows which matches the privacy glass in the back

What did u do? springs specs? Look a bit like my track rims only mine have a silver polished outside lip BTW iv allways liked black rims on silver V35s I think they would look even better with centre caps

I dont see what the problem is as the other shaft is the same size as the now cut down long shaft, also has the same amount of surface area for the splines I could have purchased a shaft that was the size I required from a wrecked 350z but I could not see the point as it was going to look exactly the same as the cut down one The other thing to mention is that my cars throwing down 170rwkw not 300rwkw Ill be sure to post up if something pops but I doubt it will particually when quaife themselves give instructions saying to do it

Dont know of any times for them personaly but this site has a heap of times on lots of cars http://www.timeattack.com.au/about/about/sprint-track.html slower evos from that link are in the 106s the fastest one is 53.96! that thing must bloody fly quickest R35 GTR is 57.12

My spedo is a nismo 280kph cluster by the start of turn one after coming down the straight it says Im doing 180 however i think that my wheel/tyres make it read faster than im going, I know from my Iphone GPS/speed app that @ 120 im doing 110kph so Id say that 180 would be more like 170ish Id love to pull a flat 60 some day, but I dont think that theres much of a way of me getting there without getting more power or drasticaly reducing weight also forgot to mention in the mods list I run a nismo cat back

Ok had somewhat of a win today Got the guys to cut off the excess stub axel and get the diff in the car, the other option was to get a stub axel from a wrecked 350z "was quoted 200 wrecker in bris" ill post a link to a complete guide on how to install the diff, mind you this is for a G35 with the viscous diff http://www.tune2win.com/index.php/diy_tech...r_installation/ The above picture shows what needed to be cut to make it all fit Anyhow after everything that went on over the last 24 hours I managed to throw on my race rims/tyres and make it to QR @ 2:30, just to kick sand in my face the rain started to piss down on the way. Fortunately my Toyo R888s are still fairly new and had plenty of depth in the grooves so I didint end up aquaplaning the whole way there. The track day was 1/2 over but I still managed to get 2 sessions out on the track before the end of the day On the 1st session the track was 80% dry however I didint go all out like I would on a normal sunny day, my 1st couple of laps were fine then I started to get fuel surge issues around turn 1 and 2 on my 3rd lap. My petrol gauge must have been playing silly buggers with me as it was half way between 1/2 and 1/4 when I went out but was telling me it was empty by the time I pulled in. I quickly went off to the newman down the road and reluctantly put 25L of E10 98 octane as the only other petrol they had was regular unleaded. By the time I got back and was about to roll up for my 2nd run the rain started to piss down and the track was drenched. I took it super easy as I watched a couple of cars in front of me spin out or slide off the track. This run however was not all in vein. With the track slippery as, and my tyres not exactly being the best ones given the conditions. I got to at least see how the new diff made the car behave in low grip situations Unlike the open diff which would easily light up one of the rear wheels in the dry let alone the wet I definitely had more traction. Going sideways around corners is much easier to control now as throttle input has a much more direct effect on where the car is going when drifting. The 1st run netted me times in the low 103s however the fuel surge issue forced me to exit just as the tyres were starting to come up to temp. Anyway given that I was only driving at 75% of what I normally would because the track was partially wet I’m pretty happy. Im sure on a nice sunny day times in the 102s will be easy enough. Still aiming for a low 101

After getting dicked around for close to 2 months I finaly got my diff! with the last sprint day of the year on 2morow I thought I would give my workshop a call and see if I could bribe them with a carton of beer to stay back and install it for me so I could try it out 2morow well my so called drop in replacement isint quite that I ordered a QDL10L which states it is a drop in replacement for 350Z autos with open diff. Well my V35 should be mechanicaly the same as a US spec poverty pac 350Z auto running an open diff Anyhow I picked up the diff and went to the workshop and waited around 3 hours as they finished off a job that didint go according to plan but finished it none the less. Now it was my turn the old diff came out everything seemed to be going to plan The new diff centre was put into the diff housing everything bolted back in with things looking normal... and then dasiaster struck One of the drive shafts was too long to go back in!!! IM THINKING WTF THIS IS THE DROP IN REPLACEMENT After lots of banging and screwing around I told the guys to call it a night. One of them suggested cutting the longer drive shaft down in the morning which should do the trick after scouring the net when I got home I came across an install guide for a G35 with a viscous diff, the guide states that the longer drive shaft needs to be cut down 1.7" The instructions that came with the diff were minimal to say the best, basicaly just saying to install the diff as you would the OEM one now the thing I dont get is my car has an open diff being an auto so WHY THE HELL is one drive shaft too long just like in the viscous install guide which is going to require a chop down of 1.7" so angry Worst of all there are no part numbers on the box that I got so I have no idea what diff I have recieved although it looks the same as the QFD10L which also looks the same as the QDD13L which is the replacement for the viscous diff

I did a post a few months back when I was going to the track but no one replied so I thought everyone on here was either far far away from SE QLD or just a bunch of soft cocks Theres one one 2morow "wednesday 1/12/10 if anyones keen for a last minuet run make sure your at QR before 1230

Cheers mate, we should go do a sprint day 2gether in the future Toyo R888s 245 40 R18 all round Not many mods nothing hardcore anyway whiteline swaybars front and back "front soft, rear med" Ferodo DS2500 pads + DBA 4000 slotted fronts "non brembo" - pretty much maxing these out now keeping my eyes out for an upgrade if a bargin comes along DBA blanks rear with Hawk ceramic pads Z tube "not that I think this did all that much" Tranny cooler Everything else on my car is stock, im actually pretty happy how the car handels with the stock springs/struts I just got a card in the mail today to tell me that my diff has FINALY arrived, however I wont get a chance to test the car with the diff installed untill next year as the last sprint session is on Wednesday and I wont have time to get it fitted I have a plenum spacer waiting to go on the car but ill get this done at the same time the diff gets put in. I'll also get the plugs changed as they are the factory ones with 80k on them The only other thing im thinking of doing is getting some camber arms as QR likes to munch the outside of your left tyres Is your 4 door a 6 speed ? 105 is about what I was doing with regular road tyres