180 wanabe

My avg is 8.8 which is about right with a mixture of hwy/city driving Seems to be spot on as it usualy drops down to 8.7 after a hard day at the track and is back to 8.8 a couple days later

Just a quick question is there any major benifit on running a staged set of semis such as 245 on the front and 275 on the back when your car is making stock power? I was thinking that 245 all round shoud be fine and would be better due to being able to rotate

Are you suggesting that I cut away some of the glass composite stuff to try and bolt the radiator to something metal?

Ok guys last question you have both been super helpfull! So say I order this radiator which has the cap on the right side so I can heep my stock airbox setup. Its for a manual not an auto. So basically The rad shop then cuts the bottom tank off Jams in the heat exchange Cuts inlet and outlet holes in the end tank and adds barbs for the hoses to connect to Welds everything back together Pressure tests reinstalls

Well after a fair bit of looking around it seems the only radiator I can find with the rad cap on the right hand side is This one iamhe77 I can understand fitting the stock rads trans cooler thing to a rad with plastic end tanks but im not sure if this can be done with one that has alluminium ones? I guess the other thing I could do would be to fit a small oil cooler such as This one which should be better than the stock setup but not my much which would help keep the temps in the normal range whilst not taking forever to warm up?

Good point on the rad cap I didint think of that one! ill have to make sure I ask anyone I buy a new rad from what side the cap is on! About the in tank cooler, if I pick up a rad which is for the auto it should also be better at keeping the trans temp cool/@ the correct temp ? or could I simply just buy a cooler with a thermostat?

Looking @ the tyre ware on the front I’d say my car is running next to no negative camber at all, ware is very even from the inside to the outside Ill pay Jon Siddins a visit as per warps advice I’ve also decided after having a chat to Craig @ Hornibrook that im better off biting the bullet and shelling out for a full set of R compounds "yes I know you guys have all been telling me this from the start" but yeah everyone seems to say its the way to go. I guess if I really want to I can try out R compounds on the front anyway once I have a full set sorted out.

At the same time though the car is my daily and im not wanting to turn it into a hardcore track car. I figured I was on the right path with the Brakes/swaybars/diff Cant see myself buying coilovers/castor rods etc not for this car anyway Im happy to mask a problem which only happens once a month when for the other 98% of the time I dont have any issues As for my driving skills ill be the 1st one to put my hand up to say theres a lot of people out there who are a lot better than me, but at the same time theres also a lot out there that are worse than me

Could you please elaborate more on the wheel alignment? V35/350z are heavier cars than the R series skylines The car drives straight so I havent taken it in for an alignment yet but was going to get it checked anyway when I fitted new tyres to the front of the car which isint that far away

Also any oil cooler can be used for the transmission/engine oil there is no specific difference between the 2 just whatever they are hooked up to makes them the cooler for that part?

Actually now that I think about it, If I get a separate tranny cooler do I still have to get a radiator for an auto? or can I just buy one for a manual ? Considoring the AU$ is pretty strong I jumped on e-bay and found a couple of radiators Here and Here Iv never been a brand snob hence why I drive a V35 rather and a BMW ... ok ok the price also had something to do with it as well but I know some of you are going to say dont buy that junk from china. The thing is years ago I was one of the 1st people to buy one of those chinese hybrid intercooler copys and even though lots of people said I just bought a turd they pretty much are accepted now not to mention it worked fine on my 308rwkw 180sx @ 1.7 bar of boost After a bit more hunting I cam across This one from ASI did a quick google search and foud a few posts on various sites about them with 90% of it being positive. Id also sooner deal with someone in Australia they seem to be based in Sydney even though their products come from china. This one looks like its for a MT but if I get a cooler for the tranny that should fix that problem

Ok so if im hunthing for a larger radiator I can prety much get anything which is for G35/350z as long as its specified as a part for the auto?

Something else that happened on last weeks track day was that my engine temp went up, it was 30deg outside according to the car. This is the 1st time that iv seen the temp go above the normal position. Lucky I noticed it and took it easy straight way. Now I’m wondering if the V35 auto has a proper tranny cooler or if it just uses the radiator to cool the transmission fluid? I’m also wondering if there’s an oil cooler? If I’m going to keep on doing sprint days in the summer I’m going to need to get or upgrade these

haha only a couple of times

Now that I think about it I dont think the cars understeering that much, the VDC is however going hyper and constantly grabbing the front left brake which is making the car feel like its understeering more than it is. I like VDC because no matter how stupid you go through a corner its pretty hard to come off. However it slows the car down so thats the other reason why I want R compound on the front so I can have VDC off and have a better chance of keeping the car on the track.

Picked my 03 V35 up with 55k allmost 2 years ago which was considored high Just ticked over 80k Yesterday

The LSD im getting is Quafie so its Helical and acts as a 1 way LSD, the V35 is my daily and I didint want a clunky 1.5/2 way mech diff still using stock struts/springs so cant change the ride height Dont have any plans on turning the car into a serious track/time attack car but I do want to be able to get around quickly enough given what the car is, wednesday arvo sprints for me is just a fun day out. Hence the band aid solution

Unfortunatly I ditched the stock swaybars so im stuck with the whiteline ones, im kicking myself for this now. The reason I did this was because I kept my swaybars for my old 180sx and ended up throwing them in the bin after I sold the car as the whiteline ones were way better. Unfortunatly this dosent seem to be the case on the V35 or more so the VDC system is based around the stock swaybar and goes into overdrive with the stiffer swaybar. VDC is good because it keeps the car on the black stuff no matter how stupid you try to drive the car. On the other hand turning it off = a faster time but if you push too hard you can come off the track

dont be surprised if the poms join them next, eventually paying off their debts by simply printing more money.... = US$ / eventually Pound will go down

Strange given that interest rates in Japan are close to 0% and the country has some pretty huge debts

At the same time though its not like the cars understeering when im driving it around town or anything, its only when im pushing it to the limit that im having issues. To give you an idea of how hard im pushing it im lapping 2 seconds slower than a 350z thats supercharged 220rwkw~ + r compound all round + brembos if you read my 1st post ull see that my cars stock apart from DS2500 pads on the front a catback and the swaybars I dont even have a LSD yet LOL

And as I stated I am running whiteline 350z swaybars

Yes Iv turned vdc off and the car was 2seconds quicker however the lack of front end grip was a pain in the ass and contributed to me coming off the track a couple of times. Not sure how u mean running r compound on the front is such a bad idea. The federal 595 Rpm are pretty dam sticky for a raod tyre treadware is 160 and I didn't have any Issues with the back kicking out unless I wanted it to which only happend on the hairpin

ok looks like the best choice is going to be a 245 40 R18 anyone know where the best place to pick some up on the Gold Coast/Brisbane is? something R compound

Im keen to send whiteline a e-mail to find out if their black box VDC controller can be made to work with our V35s, from what iv read it works for the 350z track which is a 6 speed I'v also decided to buy a pair of 18"s for the front and to get some R compound tyres, im thinking that 245 40R 18 should do the trick Im rather happy with the way the Federal 595 RPMs behaved so at the moment im not going to bother getting a pair of 18's for the rear, The RPMs seemed to grip rather well although I could still kick the back end out if I wanted to but it required me to floor it and was only realy possible on the hairpin before the front straight. With the old KU19s it didint take much to get the inside wheel to light up around any corner. When I get the quaife diff installed this should help the rear end even more