Booki

To all those who were also curious and wondering, I called up Castrol. They said you are better off putting in LSX90, due to them not being 100% sure if that oil is ok for use in the GTR diff. So looks like i am going back to the store and grab some LSX90!

Cheers moodles. Lots of people seem to use LSX90. Whats the downside of using that, being it is not a multigrade oil? I just want to put int he correct stuff, but it seems hard to find ont he shelves. Here is a pdf for EPX http://www.eternaplc.com/downloads/Castrol%20EPX_Gear_Oils.pdf

No worries, Looks like i will be taking it back and swapping it over for something else. Would rather just keep the same oil's in both. Question though, what does actually happen if you put in the wrong type of oil in a LSD. Ie if i did put in the EPX in my rear diff?

Btw does anybody have a link to that service manual...? The ones i have only give me information about the engine, nothing about the drivetrain in mine

I am just more worried about the oil, because it doesn't state its for LSD's (which i assume my GTR has). LSX90 and SAF both state they are good for use with LSD. Though EPX80-90 says its ok for Hypoid Diff's, which i assume means its ok? Just looking for some more clarifacation, I don't want my diffs to shit itself because i put in this oil... :\

So nobody knows...?

Hey fellas, Before i go putting this stuff in my diff's. Just wondering if its all good? Supercheap ran out of stock on the Castrol SAF-XA Limited Slip Rear Axle Oil - 80W-140 that everybody else seems to use. I have heard the LSX90 is ok to use, but not being a multigrade oil i figured i should get the EPX. Is it safe to use? On Castrol's website and in the book it says to use it, unless "If operating consistently above 30 deg. C, use CASTROL EPX 85W-140." Would that be ambient temp or oil temp? Not sure if diff oil's get hot or not...Considering its pretty cold down here in Melb, I figured it would be ok? Thanks in advance, Otherwise will just take it back and swap it over when they have some stock..!

I have read through this thread several times, and still end up confused on what product of oil i need to put in my GTR's rear/front diff's and transfer case... Can somebody just tell me exactly what i need to buy from my local supercheap auto/auto barn/repco! I did my Gearbox oil the other week, and used Castrol VMX-M. Seems all good to far, and shifts a bit smoother then the old oil that was in there! Please. Somebody, just tell me what i need to buy......!

I believe the wire you are referring too is commonly called the "illumination" wire, it has to be connected to something that illuminates when the parkers/headlights come on. Its not necessary to use this wire, just gives the unit additional lighting properties. But if anybody actually knows where this is ment to plug into on a r33 let me know!

So the gearbox oil change went on without a hitch. I bought a little pump from supercheap auto, There were a few pumps around $10, but i opted to go for the $20 pump. I highly recommend it, didn't take long at all to pump the 4L of Castrol VMX-M into the gearbox. For some reason the last person who changed the gearbox oil had put some gasket goop around the sump, i opted not to this time. So far it hasn't leaked. Is this common/best practice to do so for diff, gearbox, transfer case sumps? First time i have ever seen it. Also for the record, the sump/fill plug sizes are 1/2". I used a 1/2" ratched to do them up. Used a breaker bar to get them off. What do you guys put in the Diff's (Front and rear) and transfer case? Also found out i have a "Ganador" exhaust. Thoughts? Any good?

Ah thanks!!! Little too late though, Already done and dusted... Took some pics too so will post up a bit of a DIY/Thoughts. I ended up just throwing in Castrol VMX-M. Shifts pretty much the same as it did before, going into first is smoother thats all i noticed. The old oil smelt like ass and was black as, and the magnetic sump was full of filings so i think it was still worth while to change it out.

...Fair point ha ha, I'm just a REAL fussy owner.

It is a GTR, and from my knowledge its still all factory. No mods. So stock box. What is nissans service intervals for the diff's, gearbox and transfer case oils? Guess i will be shelling out the big bux for the redline shockproof...eeep

Also the workshop manual I have for the GTR has nothing about the Diffs or Gearbox's in it. Can somebody point me in the right direction on where to grab a manual stating the weight required and a guide? Mainly for Torque specs

I am using the car as my daily for the moment. Won't be tracking the car. At least not in the near future anyway. So pretty much get something that is within the manufactures weight recommendation's is what i am after?

Hey everyone, I have read the stickies that are posted up about which oils people use for there gearbox/diff's and transfer cases. After reading the 6 pages of opinion's, to be honest i am still confused on what exactly to put in my R33 GTR, and where to buy them, Supercheap? I am wanting to drop the gearbox/diff oils this weekend. Is there any other oils i should consider while the car is up? (Already done engine oil and filter) Some people have said they love and use the redline lightweight shockproof stuff, others say don't use it as it has a changed formula. So sorry in advance for the common question, but I am just balls to the wall confused about what oils to put in the GTR!

Any updates happening?

Does the stock box still get that wicked intake noise? Been looking for a stock box, but man they are pricey.

On a completely unrelated note to this thread. I checked my power steering fluid (least i think it is, the container near one of the AFM plugs), is a bit low. Should this be changed out or just topped up? if so does the GTR take a particular type of fluid? Or can i just grab the generic stuff from super cheap. If it needs to be changed, is it hard to do?

I am actually interested to know why you think that. I have read it alot, but havn't really seen any hard evidence on why they are bad. Only reason i can think of is because they are "dry"

Yeah definitely. Cleaning the AFM's will now be part of my sched. Seeing as i have only had the car for about 20 days, i figured it would be a good idea to start checking things out and seeing what needs to be done. Looked like the prev owner had never cleaned them. I have nice spread sheets for all my maintenance records for all the bikes/cars i own I know alot of people over oil there filters, hence them throwing off afm sensor's. I think i might give them a very thin oil coat and a wash and just keep my eyes on it to see if it lets any oil through. I have over oiled my air filters on dirt bikes before when i was new to them. But you get a good idea on how much is too much and how much is enough after you have done them enough times.

I do have AFM's, the GTR is pretty much stock other then a hiflow cat/quiet exhaust and the hks pods. I cleaned my AFM's on Sunday, who would have thought they are ment to be red and not black? haha. I understand oil can get through the foam, but wouldn't that be if you over oil it? I am only thinking about oiling them because of the bad rep the HKS filter's have...hence the third post on this thread

I have a set of HKS foam filter's on my GTR. Being used to dirt bikes, i always wash, clean and reoil my foam filters. But apparently these have a "dry" type filter element/foam. How the hell can a "dry" piece of foam filter out all the dust? Doesn't it need oil? Before i just go out and clean my hks foam filters and oil them. Is there any particular reason why i should not? Obviously don't over oil them... I just spray a light coating on a nice clean air filter and thats it (dirt bikes). Just having a dry foam filter in my car makes me feel so uneasy.

I also have a similar noise in my GTR. I only got it about a week or two ago, so still learning as much as i can about it. My one makes a noise while I am in netural, once i press the clutch in. It goes quiet. Take it out, the "whirring" "whine" noise comes back. A friend said its a thrust bearing, but from reading the replies in this thread i am confused and not sure. Anybody know if it will do my car any harm? General consensus says you need to take out the gearbox to fix it, so i may as well wait till i need a clutch as long as it isn't damaging anything by waiting.

Budget would be around $300-$400 on a set of front coaxial's.