maccattack

Yeah - other people using suitable rotors. :laughing-smiley-014:

4000's are definitely NOT recommended for track. DBA won't stand by them if they are used for track - I know because we fronted them after my 4000's shattered. They ONLY recommend the 5000's for track work.

I have sent 6 emails now from 17/7/2007 up till yesterday and have yet to receive a response from them. Is anyone else having difficulty getting a response?? Does anyone have a contact number for them at all?? Thanks Peter

I tried the 4000's on the front - shattered both first outing at the track. 5000's seem to hold up OK - so far.

Andrew, Probably about 375awkw at the moment. I'll shoot john an email today. Hopefully that will be a nice start to cooling them down. Looked at you photos - S H I T. Now that what I call rooted rotors. They must have felt like crap while you were driving.

Saw this on the "Show us your racing machines" thread and thought - this sums it up nicely. Good on ya Russ - Kick Ass ps. Has Mark started on that diet yet???

I had been reading the reviews on here for the G4's / D2's / KSports and they all seem pretty good for the money. I had been looking at the AP Racing big brake kit from UAS which I know is good stuff. I also know it aint cheap. My only concern with the cheaper sets is longevity. It would appear that there is no probs initially with their stopping power, but being a lower quality alloy, is overflexing a problem and what effect will this have on the callipers long term?

Thanks so far guys - great feedback. I am running 255 semi's (RE55's) all round with Work Emotion Cr Kai wheels for the track. Pretty sure the fluid has been top of the line Motul as we (ie: the mechanic) changed me over to the better fluid approx 12 months ago (after the brake loss incident). I haven't ever rebuilt or serviced the brakes since I have had the car. Maybe that is part of it????

Thanks Harry, I'll definitely look into it. I have in the interim got a price on Mu Secret rotors ($900-00) for fronts and Endless ($1950-00) for fronts - FARK!!!! Spoke with UAS who swears the only way to go is an upgrade - of course they are selling me their merchandise. Still a little bemused but think I will do the staged approach and see how it goes. Fluid- ducting - rotors - 62 piston calipers.

Thanks for the fast replies so far guys. Currently I am using the Hawk Race pads. Moved to these after Endless changed compounds and prices. Find they are very good at holding up - fairly savage on rotors though. Fluid is Motul Dot 5. They car has a reasonable amount of mumbo so it takes a fair bit of pulling up. Stone guards are gone, but still gets pretty hot at around 7-10 laps (spongy). I have lost brakes previously by not letting them cool down enough between sessions. Only ducting at the moment is standard. My initial thoughts are to increase this fairly substantially before going to a bigger brake set (cheaper too). Hadn't thought too much about the rotors before now. I'll have to have a look into them. Thanks

I have been finding I am running out of brakes on track days in my 33 GTR - spongy pedal heading towards boiled fluid. At this stage I have standard Brembo calipers and lines running with DBA 5000 series rotors. I need some advice from those in the know regards upgrades. Now from what I have read, thermal capacity is the key here - (please correct me if I am wrong). My question is this - should I be looking at changing lines to braid and increasing my air ducting to the brakes before I look at larger brakes? Are standard Brembos up to the task if the airflow to them is increased? Thanks Peter

You weren't too slow yourself. How did your car pull up - noticed you had a prob in the end.

On Saturday morning I went out to QR to watch Russ and Mark test a few bits and pieces on their R32 which is being prepared for the Tsukuba Time Attack at the end of the year. Even though they haven't got the race donk or suspension in the car yet, it is going like a bullet. Looks awesome in the flesh - black on black - carbon doors and 10"rims all round running 285/18's. For a car that has to runs semi's it is farken quick -really impressive to watch. Mark is quite a wheel man - coming through the inside corner on the national circuit and rounding 6 onto the straight were a sight to behold. Good on ya guys. Farken awesome.

I've had front and back window seals replaced with aftermarket ones. Sure they are not the Skyline ones, but they look a whole lot better than the originals which have gone all tatty from age. Quite cheap too. Don't waste your money. Unless you are going for the "100% original" thing, go aftermarket.

Hi Paul, Yes you can identify these cars from the VIN number. Do a search for VIN or FAST software and you should find what you are after. The question would be moreso why you are specifically after a V-Spec or V-Spec II GTR. If you believe they are somehow either more sought after or perform better than non-V-Spec models you would be mistaken. Plenty of people have sought advice as to the best models to buy and the answer ALWAYS comes back the same - buy the car which is in the best condition for the money. While there are differences between the models, in a performance sense, us mere mortals would not be able to tell the difference, no matter how hard you drive them. Search is your friend on these forums - you will find plenty of good information to help with your purchase. Good luck. Peter

Don't think you could go past the Evo X. Golf is a nice car - relatively quick but also relatively tame. Not known for "high" performance. You'd be happy on the road but not on the track. R34 as previously stated - 5 years old and getting older. As with any GTR, want a lot out of it - open your wallet. Don't get me wrong - I love them but if my GTR is any guide, $$$$$. Porsche boxter - has come down in price so much because they are a bit of a dog. Under powered ladies car. Evo X - even in stock form is very quick. This is a new car so you have the added advantage of warranty. Doesn't need a lot of mods to be a lot quicker. Good on both road and track.

Thanks for the feedback so far, Yeah I'm aware of the difference in gearset types. The reason I was asking is for information on which may be best for the 90/10 usage of the car. Are dogboxes too noisy and clumsy for daily driving - should I be using helical cut for my application?? As far as breaking synchros - this usually is a result of track work. Generally it is 3-4. You can get around it by double clutching - but this doesn't help lap times. Ultimately my questions are should I use, straight, helical, combo gearsets for 90/10 driving? Are the OS Giken units any good or should I be looking at ther PPG which is reputably one of the strongest around?? Peter

Just looking for a bit of feedback from those who have tried various close ratio boxes. I have a GTR which is fairly heavily modified. I have a habit of breaking synchros and am looking for a gearbox that will be used primarily for road use and about 10% for track work. Should I be going to mission (helical) gearset as opposed to dog gears? Are dog gears (straight cut) driveable on the street? I like the price of the OS Giken gearsets however I have heard that I should be looking at PPG's gearsets as they are far stronger. Those who have either of these or can shed a bit more "user knowledge" on these it would be appreciated.

Happy Birthday Jase - best wishes

Easier just to buy a Cryo2 product http://designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=3

Wouldn't want to try that one with anything standing in front of the car when you give it some on the dyno

Yes, I've had a similar problem only my bad fuel blew my engine on the track. Leaned out and melted 2 pistons which ended up putting the bearings through the turbos. Made a complaint to the fuel company. They have a third party company who look after all complaints. There had been an issue at the time whereby plugs were being destroyed by certain batches of fuel containing a contaminant. With my case they had the fuel tested and came back with "all levels within tolerances". Either way I ended up with a $10k bill out of it. Worth a complaint - don't know how far you will get though.

Looking for the factory (or replica in plastic) front lip for a series 1 R33 GTR. Also after a GTR gearbox. Either PM me or phone 0419 641 071. Cheers Peter

Looking for the original black plastic front lip for a R33 GTR. Either PM or call me on 0419 641 071 Cheers Peter

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;hl=maccattack