ClassOne

Hey mate - ive got an S13 rolling shell. located in sydney got everything bar drivers seat and drive line. Pm if interested.

The stupid things have 3 or 4 micro switches... Can bet one of them is the issue.

I'll see if I can dig up the pics. I'll try explain the main things. 1st remove the inner tail gate. (Carpeted lower section) And the plastic outer, your gonna need a flat blade to lever it.. I thought I was going to break it. It's stubborn! Peal back the plastic so you can look inside. Take the (4 or 6) bolts out of the boot latch/mech It's all one piece. Un clip the wiring, and I think I moved the control box which is on the left hand side (viewed looking at the latch) The motor/mech assembly is a bitch to remove.. It's so tight! I dropped in down into the cavity and moved it to the right of its mount bracket. It pretty much has to do a complete 360 to remove it and you remove it from the left of where it was bolted in.. So it drops down moves to the right, goes around the mount bracket while starting the 360' turn and exits a hole to the left of its original mount position. The pain is the latch! It's size! Once it's out and moved to the right, push the thinner section (with the motor) up as far as you can get it into the tight cavity (towards the glass). Then rotate it clockwise while trying to get the fat latch past it's mounting points.. I can't stress how tight this is, you don't need physical force, it's like there is only 1 way it works, period! After you get the latch past the mount bracket, Keep rotating until you get the latch pointing towards the glass, If you look now into the boot from the left side of the latch mount, you can see another cavity, Push the fat latch up into it, You then should be able to rotate it clockwise while pulling it down and to the left to complete its 360' rotation and end up with the latch facing you. You will need your flat blade again to slightly bend the plastic to get the latch thru the cutout and out it comes, Do the opposite to get it back in. That gives you an idea. I'll try and find the pics I took. Don't have the stagea anymore, took on 2 kangaroos... Write off!

Take it to jet wreck ...I'm sure he will reply soon. I don't know if hills Motorsport have changed owners.. But a good 6 years ago they were rubbish. Don't know what you were quoted or what your box needs.. But a service at JAX, flush and new oil with me providing the oil was $130

M35 turbos always fail... Has nothing to do with the engine.

Why not ey?

Hey blokes, Noticed one bank is leaking oil from the rocker cover gasket.. Passenger side. I did a search but showed no results. Has anyone got the part number for them? Ps - anyone know if there is any of those plenum spacer kits going around? Cheers

Technically it has not failed, the component is still in tact and has not lost any partial component of its primary construction or warn out to the point that it has failed. Yes it is warn but it technically has not failed. Just like a wheel bearing, just because its making a racket does not mean it has failed, it is just at the upper limit of its life span. A failure would be indicated by a permenant non repairable failure of an integral component. They are right by saying it is ware and Tare, But Nissan identified this as a component failure as such. You could also argue the term failure. Does that mean complete failure to function OR partial failure to function Which the latter is true. And you have a supported claim by the manufacturer. Your dealing with an insurance company, they don't want to pay you. So you need to be smart with terminology and build yourself a solid case. I would use the term "failure" as your primary argument, because if it doesn't say complete failure, then it can also partially fail so technically it has failed.

Mine was diff pump

Will also need a fuel system clean and flush. And ideally you would want to replace any rubber line with a comparable material.

What was the damage to get it done Scotty?

Can anyone give me some tips on servicing this box? I've never done an auto box before, I just want to make sure I get all the old oil out. Has anyone done a DIY on this before with success ? Any help would be appreciated

Usually 3 bolts and a C clip, fiddly biatch

It should have a + and - on the rotatable knob. And if you have to re install it, the flow can only happen one way thru the T for it to work. What gasket was broken? It's either you had a massive boost leak or you have installed the T backwards.

what oil viscosity do you guys run? i thought the recommendation was a 5w40? or was that 10w40?