clubracer

Running 2 businesses and tried to build a race car is hard.... so I've enlisted the help of a great young bloke at UTS who has started to help me. So the project had been paused while I was working out how to work less at the end of last year, but in the last 2 weeks I've found a complete dry sump setup (off a DR30 so it will bolt in). I have also purchased a Painless Wiring kit - which will be painful, but I can't afford to have it done professionally so this is my next best option. I've also completely stripped the car of all the unnecessary parts (air con, headlight washers etc) and next week we'll be laying out the new wiring. Before Christmas I also purchased some coilovers, steering wheel, seat, harness, seat mounts as well as a heap of heat shielding stuff (DEI Reflect-a-gold, exhaust wrap etc) Happy days!

How much do you want for the whole dry sump setup?

Yeah thought so... glad I was right because I've bought everything I need... and what else am I supposed to do over the Xmas break??

IP regs state uprights are free, so I can run anything as long as I don't run spherical bearings etc.

Why would you have to change to R&P? I know there are some bump steer issues to sort out but with a new tie rod end to suit the S13 upright it will all just bolt in. Or is there something I'm missing here??

Hey mate I sell FRP and carbon universal flares. FRP are $240 for the set. Dry carbon are $480. I was actually going to fit a set to my DR but haven't got the wheels I'm after yet so not sure that I'll need them.

Hey guys I also sell these kits and there are a heap of pads available. I actually have Project Mu pads made up for them in either the DC09 clubracer or the HC+ and the stopping is unbelievable. Highly recommended.

28mm thick discs too

they were for the 286/304mm kits - am sure they would take up to a 315mm disc though.

Hey guys thought I'd post this in here. Have the following for sale: 1. Complete wiring harness - $100 - Great condition 2. Standard FJ20ET computer - $100 3. Fully working air conditioning (degassed) - $100 4. Standard suspension struts - $80 5. Front brakes (discs and callipers) - $50 Before work commences on the cage we'll be fully rewiring the car and stripping at least another 30kg in wiring out and having a Adaptronic computer installed (which will also mean removing a lot of the pollution gear - another 5kg). All up I think we've removed in the region of 100kg out of the car.

Stewy are you out there? Sump needed!

Hi guys, After an FJ20 sump that I can modify for the race car. Don't mind if it's dented or whatever, as long as the flange is okay - it's going to be heavily modified anyway.

It's been a while since I have worked on the car but we're coming up to some nice updates. I spoke to the guys at AGI Precision Engineering and without a doubt these guys will be building the cage. Not only are they really well priced but the level of professionalism is second to none. It's a nice change to see such a spotless workshop - The guy was an engineer/mechanic at Williams F1 so would sort of expect it. Anyway it will be a nice 6 point weld in cage with hopefully a few extra features to add a bit more rigidity. If you want a cage tell them Peter from AUTOsports sent you! They also do a huge range of bolt in half and full cages fully CAMS compliant. Anyway, enough of that. So the car should be going in there in about a fortnight and then after that the fun can start. The cage is the main part I couldn't do so as soon as it's back it will be full steam ahead. Picked up these little AP beauties. Was originally going to run with the D2 calipers I had but they don't quite clear the wheels I want to run. By the way the D2 6 spot calipers are for sale. $400 no offers.

Okay so it's been a while so time for some updates. Work has been crazy and I've been concentrating on building the biz rather than the car but we've completely stripped out the sound deadener using dry ice and a timber mallet. The bets move even. The stuff literally shatters. All up for 16kg out of the passenger compartment and boot. Have spoken to some guys regarding a basic 6 point bolt in cage which should be the next step. With a bit of luck next month will see the cage, race seat, steering wheel, etc all done, so the inside will be pretty much ready to go. Have also lined up wheel, brakes and suspension so hopefully by the end of the year we'll get an initial test session in.

I also have a set front and rear. Stock as far as I'm aware.

Hey guys, After a sump that I can baffle and modify for the DR30. Anyone got an old one? Will be modified to not too concerned about the condition. Cheers

Hey guys, Well I got the interior stripped out and sold and hoping this weekend will get some dry ice in there to help get the sound deadener out. Still tossing up about the cage... looks like I'll be going steel though. Have spoken to Bonds about getting a kit to weld in myself although not sure yet. Been a little while since I rigged anything but might just do a bit of practice before jump onto anything serious like a roll cage. The price difference is huge, but then again the hours spent installing one will probably have me change my mind at the end of it all! Can't believe how much stuff came out of the interior though, and the amount of 80s heavy electronics and boxes... still more to come but the bulk of it is gone. Check out more of the build at http://autosports.com.au/index.php/news-a-projects/17-project-dr30

Thanks Matty, a kind member already got onto it and supplied me a copy but greatly appreciated. Cheers

Hey guys, This came with my DR30 and I have no need for it. Was asking $250 for it but if someone on here wants it for $200 they can take it. It has all the stuff with it and instruction etc can be downloaded from the Greddy website. Anyone?

Thanks guys, much appreciated. Please let me know what else I can remove, there seems to be so much of it!!

Hey guys, Quick question. I am building the DR for circuit racing (on a budget) so I'll be running the car with a standard engine for the moment. The car will not be registered. There is a hell of a lot of pollution gear under the bonnet and back in the day on a carboy car you could just disconnect it all and plug up all the air leaks and she'd run fine. What I want to know is if I do this with the FJ will it still run okay? If not are there any tricks (other than going to an aftermarket computer)? Help definitely appreciated. Cheers

I have a good freight guy. Does regular trips to Vic with cars and I'm sure for an extra couple hundred bucks he'd take it all with him. If you want the entire interior I'm happy to let it go but just need the door cards and rear cards - require the standard ones for racing. As long as they're not terrible!

Yep, Geoff is my brother's mate.

Hey guys, As my DR is getting turned into a circuit car I am getting rid of the interior which is in great condition. Everything other than the dash shell and the door cards (unless someone can supply me with some rough items to replace them with). One seat appears to have been retrimmed but the overall condition is pretty good for a 26 year old car. See for yourself. Open to offers! Will also separate if I can't sell the lot. Contact Peter for more details 0403306440

DR30 front and rear seats in good condition (driver has been retrimmed at some point), plus carpet and centre console with electric windows. Also have all boot lining and headlining. $250 the lot. Contact me [email protected] and I'll send you some photos.