tastyratz

I also require this information for some math I need to perform. Instead of starting a new thread I am going to give this a big fat back from the dead BUUUUUUMP

took me damn long enough to get these puppies back together note that I took some bad advice you should all avoid from some thread I think I read on here. After putting them together I tried baking the bezels alone at 350deg F to let the silicone steam out and not fill the headlights with condensation. well after about 10 minutes of that on one of them all the chrome plating began to crack and flake. Not a big deal since im painting it black right? WRONG... I had some serious earthquake cracks all around the surface that were extremely visible through the paint, and caused painted sections to come off since the chrome came off. It took many hours of sanding, filler primer, and more sanding to get them to look right blinker leds have been installed and are DAMN bright on this car. Looks GREAT if anyone cares ive also created custom shields to make it lhd instead of rhd (again a usa thing) and I converted them from h3c to h3... all in all its been great and they look 100x better. the shields from a kouki s14 actually did NOT work on this projector so I had to scrap them.

You can do it to any lights really, go for it. I have had a damper on the project lately because i followed some advice from people I will clear up now. my given advice: after paint and glue and such put it in the oven @ 300deg or so for 30 min to get the stuff that will evaporate out and not fog the lights up. fact: 12 minutes in the stove @ 310 degrees causes all the chrome to crack and flake off. Since this is what half the paint bonds to, that means a horrible deep cracked looking surface and a prettymuch RUINED piece. I am trying filler primer then sanding it to see if it doesnt look too bad (hopefully) Other whise I doubt I would be able to get my hands on that one chrome piece in the usa for a passenger r32 light.... and I doubt I wanna pay 43094583095834904308945$ for one shipped overseas. Wish me luck repairing!

actually im almost done with my lights. probabbly get them finished up this weekend if its gonna snow like they say it will.... they came out flawless and I love it. Ive got a bunch of pics from along the way, I just dont have any up The plastic WILL get soft and bend a little cooking these so you might have to push on other spots for a second but it shouldnt do any real damage really

I wish I could edit the name of this thread because I have some interesting Concepts and ideas on modifying the lights to do some more things. Im going to do an experiment on the projectors that will hopefully yield some hid level colorful cutoff cheap and easy.

damn man I didnt even see your thread, I wouldnt have done that whole writeup if I did, does looks like were aiming for very similar things. I went premade led for my drl spot (which will be what I will use for my blinkers in front) Id love to see what your row of leds will look like when installed, I worry that may not be bright enough or bright enough in a large enough area when the headlights are on and you may need to go back and put more. I guess atleast this is another viewpoint on it and shows what it would look like with gold or black :-P I didnt use a different projector, just used stock. it looks to me like nissan really parts binned these using the same projector on everything. This projector looks extremely similar to the silvia projector, as well as the kouki s14 projector.... So much so in fact I found a local who is selling me his kouki left hand drive cutoff shields to install on my lights and not blind oncoming traffic here. I plan on modifying it a bit though and moving it closer to the bulb to give some nice thick color. Heres a link to the guys thread showing what you can get from a reg nissan halogen projector just by moving the shields http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/viewtopic....b62d24ce1388548 I have some sylvania 100 watt h3s I will be using instead of HID's in this setup Both looking for something different, and taking different paths to get there but in the end we do have alot of similarities. I guess people can use both our writeups to conclude what they want to do with their own cars.

ok I'm from the usa and I drive a us 240sx that I am in the middle of putting an r32 gts nose on. I had all my parts arrive but I wanted to do as much different custom things as possible: Materials: small skinny flathead screwdriver medium sized flathead small head philips screwdriver. cup to hold all the screws oven oven mitts aluminum foil Krylon bbq and stove black satin paint (or other HIGH HEAT ONLY paint) balls of steel First: prep the lights. There should be a few metal clips holding the front on. Pry those off with a screw driver FROM THE SIDE WHERE THE PLASTIC IS. I managed to chip my glass on one prying from the center. Also remove the bulbs and any extra rubber pieces, vent hoses, etc that may be damaged. Turn your oven to about 400 degrees and let it preheat. Depending on the oven and how close the middle tray will be to the heat source (use your discretion) You may want to shut the oven off before inserting the lights. I did the fog lights and the headlights in my case. Put a few sheets of aluminum foil down over a tray as centered as possible. (note if your doing fog lights the glue is different and takes about 10-11 min to soften, nothing special after that really) Place the lights 1 at a time in the center of the oven and shut the door. The glue in the headlights requires about 6 minutes to become free, maybe 7. Pry them apart slowly from the corners with a screw driver. It will be a good amount of pressure to seperate but it wont be something to strongarm. You have only a few min before it cools off and you have to put it back in the oven. After seperation you will see the chrome bezel is held on by only 2 screws and 2 ball joints. Un screw the 2 screws and pop it out of the ball joints. Make sure to tape off the inside of the drl reflector because you need that to remain chrome, dont touch the reflectors beyond the bezel... those will be needed obviously for light but the bezel is just that, a bezel. This shouldnt affect light output as far as I can gather. Now you have it apart and masked the way you want, hit the pieces with a piece of scotch bright to scuff the surface real quick, then make sure to wipe it completely clean of dust with a towel and solvent. Afterwards you paint it nice and even hitting it from all different angles and inspecting it as you go, its real easy to miss or light spray a spot on these. I used the krylon bbq paint here and it dried in a fairly cold environment in under 10 min. Re-assembly is very simple and work backwards. Make sure the lights appear sealed and if they dont then try going over them with a bead of silicone afterwards so no water gets in. heres a few pics: After I dont have any pics of it fully re-assembled because its not yet, this is the tip of my project. I plan on taking that small drl reflector in the picture and turning it into my front blinker. I picked up on ebay last night an amber power tower 3156 superflux 20 led bulb that I am going to stuff into there and modify the housing to make it fit having a hella bright blinker. also picked up a 5 led wedge bulb to go in the corners as my side blinker. On top of that I am going to either swap the shields with a DOT spec shield in the projector or modify these to be LHD not RHD. While this is apart you will notice the shield placement can be adjusted. If you slide them closer to the bulb you may get an HID blue cutoff line effect without having HID. Any questions? feel free to post them

Hey, Ive got the r32 front halfway installed on my nissan 240sx but I was curious... can someone take a picture for me on what the oem headlight bracket looks like, as well as maybe the radiator support, where things attach in that area, etc? I want to make as clean and perfect of an install as I possibly can. Im in the usa and its a bit hard for me to get ahold of that type of shot ;-)

Thanks for the picture post. I think it would be great if we could get people to post an attached picture of their car (which best shows an accurate representation of the color its painted) while mentioning what paint code their car is. This would be a great help to the community when repainting and deciding on a color :-)

back from the dead because your pics dont work! any chance you could get em back online for me?

would gts fog lights fit in the ducts from a gtr bumper?

another question came up as well, sorry to be bothering you guys with all this but its really helpful. factory fog lights.... are they any different for gts/gtr bumpers? I may be able to come across a set somewhere and I wanted to see if I should just pounce on them or if it matters if they are gts/gtr? thanks

actually the r32 front is about 350$ USD cheaper for me to do than a silvia front, and going strawberry face is several thousand usd more! the r32 front is seen alot less, putting the s15 front on your s13 over here is common practice, the r32 front is more affordable for me, imho sexy, and something a little more challenging/different. Alot of the people who have done the front end have done a piss poor job on it, but my father owns a bodyshop and ive got aaaaallllll winter to get it perfect :-). The skyline front is ALMOST a bolt on affair, only thing with it is that it is wider than the stock s13 front when bolted on in gts-t AND gtr form so you have to try to tuck things in a bit so it doesnt look out of place. Other than that redrill the fender holes and make a headlight mounting bracket. thats 90% of getting it on, the rest is really finess to make it mint. Over in the us we have different slang. Let me know if what it sounds like im seeing is correct indicators=corner lamps bonnet = hood bar= front bumper lower lip/add on ground fx? this is the one I have the most trouble with. as far as the hood/fenders. how much weight does it save going with a gtr hood? is it worth going with a carbon fiber hood or should I save the money and just use a gtr one? the grill in the front I believe I read attaches to the gtr headlights so I know thats different, does anyone have any pictures of where it meets? Maybe I can fabricate a bracket. how does the latch differ on the gtr vs the gtst? relocated/different type? Thanks everyone for humoring me and helping me out on this. I want to be well informed and prepared on this so I can do a proper job. xrhettx Im from massachusetts Maybe I will go with a gts-t bumper and gtr hood-grill-headlights-fenders if I can get ahold of them. aluminum doesnt rust which is a very good thing on a car in my area. yea this isnt gonna be a show car for me at all, its a daily driver/auto-x that will never see a show. oh and for the curious heres one persons conversion job done right. You can see however that he used gtr parts and it made the front hang down a bit too low not matching the already lowering bodywork from the kit.

Hello, Im from the USA. I drive a 240sx (known as the 180sx or 200sx over there to you guys) I want to do a front end conversion on my car with r32 parts. Fenders, Hood, Headlights, OEM bumper, etc. I did a search and scanned about 150 posts by now.... ive not really come up with good solid answers. Has there been any modifications through the years of the r32 styling wise? I know the gt-r had the motorized front lip, otherwhise is the bumper different at all? I hear people talk about the different headlights gtr, etc. What exactly is the difference between the different headlights? did all r32s come with projectors? is there a difference between the h3c/h1 projectors? Is there any difference with the fenders? (besides the logo on the side) What about cross fitment collecting parts? (i.e. will I be able to use gtr headlights with a gts-t hood/fenders/bumper other way around etc. with no difference or some modification?) I appreciate any and all constructive replies. Alot of people either love it or hate it and I dont want to debate that here, I like the look, its fairly simple and fairly inexpensive, its also my choice and my car. please respect that. Thank you for your help...

dont you mean ff instead of fr? yea dude ive been told before that the rb25det has the same maf as a 300zx (fairlady z) but DONT QUOTE ME ON THIS. its very possible im wrong but its not a bad direction to research in for a replacement, thats an easier afm to find over here in the states. you could always do the afm correction and make this an excuse to get a q45 afm

if you want to do the swap in the 180 (which is prettymuch the same as the us spec 240sx) its prettymuch the same as an rb25 swap. I am doing an rb25det swap into my 240sx over in the u.s. and its not really that hard. Im sure you can find some things of reference on the 240sxforums.com rb section theres a few good faqs there. You are going to need a custom driveshaft made and the wirings a little bit of work but the end result is fun :-) You can use the crossmembers off the skyline if you redrill them but its HIGHLY recommended you use custom mounts. you will need the rb25det gearbox which bolts up perfectly and has been done several times before. I dont know how it will be affected with a rhd car if you hit anything but in the lhd car swap we hit the steering shaft with the stock twins. You may need the downpipe section of your exhaust done custom which isnt expensive anyways. Theres plenty on this subject out there just do some searching on lots of forums...

these things are things that interest me. I was doing a little bit of reading on them but i was still somewhat sceptical. Im in the usa so our gas isnt so great in comparison and i can only get 93 octane (ron/mon method) at the pumps here at best. you were saying though however that the knock level went down with the pfc... could you look into that a little bit more? if it can make the car have less knock (which essentially is a large percentage of what its supposed to do) then its a worthwhile thing to have in the states. there are also less expensive alternatives for only a couple hundred dollars US. Running a higher octane fuel doesnt really do anything for a car unless you change the tune. maybe thats the road you should go down for your testing and see what you can get out of the same fuel with and without the units...

hello, would someone educate me on this? i always see all different kinds of turbos and sizes. i see people using t3/t4s, etc. and all different wheels. what is the benefit for using a larger exhaust wheel? if you wanted power why wouldnt you just run a much smaller sized ex. wheel and a big giant intake wheel? wouldnt that spool better, produce much less heat from much lower shaft speed, etc.? why do they only vary so much and what determines the level of variance?

What different types of manuals in english are available for the skyline? im over in the states and we have books on our cars made by brands like haynes, chiltons, etc. with general information about maintenaince, technical specs, etc for our cars. what ones do you guys have over there for the skyline and what would you recommend? i plan on putting an rb25 into my s13 over here and id like something to reference to on the motor. thanks

i had no idea that the rotaries had a thermostat on the oil coolers that did that! is there any way to hook up an rx-7 cooler with the thermostat as being functional? im over in the states and climates vary alot so this wouldnt be bad. EDIT: sidenote; whats the thread pattern and-length on an rb25det oil filter? i want to put the remote filter w/ oil cooler on but i need to know the pitch etc. to find a compatible one over here.

see i plan on running an rb25det in my 240sx over here in the states. i like the idea of keeping the 9:1 which makes it hard in the usa when running big boost. this is going to be a daily driver for me which probabbly wouldnt be taken to the limits at all points, but water injection is a very cheap alternative for me since i cant afford to be dumping massive amounts of tuluene in my tank every fill. if you guys want an intercooler sprayer or just cooler of sorts, it might be worth looking into the nitrous express Ntercooler system. this can run off of nitrous or co2. i have access to 92 and 93 octane gas over here ( r+m/2 method. im not sure how octane is figured there i heard it was different) the water will allow me to have a more "streetable" tune without compromising off boost driveability for my bigger boost. i for one have seen the effects of water when in large quantities, you can ask my 3 month old after install h22a swap sitting in the backyard with a hole in the side of the block as big as a soda can top. i found this out when it downpored a cold air intake doesnt agree with me. waters really nasty stuff, and right it doesnt compress as ive noticed. it does however yield big benefits. if you really want to learn more about water injection, the first place to hit up would be usa forums for owners of buick grand nationals. thats a car that will NOT take big boost without water injection, due to the way its designed i think after like (14??) psi water/ alky becomes almost mandatory.

assembling your own kit not only ensures quality components, but it can be custom tailored to your own liking. you can build a 500$ setup for 1/3 the price. unless its computer controlled its not worth blowing all that money on a kit.

ive thought up of an idea the other day on how to run an excellent water injection system. alright, we all know what the benefits of water injection are; it lowers the cumbustion chamber temperature to help prevent detonation. water before the turbo WILL destroy your turbo like nothing, so its a good idea to run after intercooler setup due to also the fact that water will sit in the intercooler which is no good. what are the weaknesses of watercooling?: 1. it takes up valuable space, most of us which cannot afford to lose, making you either give up your windshield squirters, or relocate it to the trunk which in most cases equals... 2. poor response. the farther away it gets the less responsive the system gets, because most systems involve some sort of activation which activates the pump, which takes a second to get the water going which means boom if it takes too long. 3. different forms of activation. 4. leaking what can be done to remedy this? thats all on a returnless system, but what about an always on returning system? heres my idea: power the pump, which you can use just a fuel pump, by a relay into the stock fuel pump. when theres fuel pressure theres water pressure. you can run this pump out of a few gallon tank in your trunk now. run a line from the pump all the way under the car to the engine bay. over by the throttle body split the line with a "T" connector. on one end of the connector goes a open close solenoid, which is activated by a boost pressure switch. attach a pressure stop valve (i have no idea what they are called i just guessed but they go inline and wont let any fluid through unless there is x psi of pressure on the valve) after that is the aquamist nozzle (or whatever you choose) into your intake piping. one end complete now we go from the other end of the t. that line just runs all the way back into the water tank you built. now you have a constantly under pressure system that instantaneously responds because of that being what it is. this eliminates any lack of response and ensures a quick on water injection system. the pressure stop valve thing ensures that there will be no leaking of water when the car is powered off as a safety, and will also ensure that there will be absolutely no leaking of water during solenoid opening. theres also no problems on location because now you can easily put your water supply where it counts and is out of the way. the only problem ive come into is where and what kind of solenoid should be used in this setup? it cant be something too expensive, and preferable if anyone sees one can you give me a USA friendly part #? im not from aus.

dont forget too, that its much better to use water injection post intercooler, because as a heat exchanger your intercooler will function better having first dibs at the hot air because of temperature differentials from outside/inside IC.