sadr33

Will post pics tomorrow. Its missing one of the metal clamps/hinges that locks it shut when you place the filter A bit of plastic is chipped off where the snorkeler joins up to it where the V shape is on others I have seen (It should not affect operation as the plastic where the snorkel lines up is still complete) $65

Heres what I know for a fact, needless to say from my perceptive. There definitely is a whine that was not there before. Its not on a few other stock turbo skylines I've heard. Its not down to me not knowing the difference between intake induction and turbo spool (I recognize the difference). The problem started days if not a week after I fitted the new airbox not right away (the airbox be a coincidence in this) I also coincidentally happened to comment on exactly that in my OP on the other thread so I know exactly what you are talking about/ "First few days the car drove fine. No more loud induction sound and no loss of performance, all I could hear is comparatively subtle turbo spool which was mostly masked by induction noise in the past." www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/413033-turbo-now-sounds-like-a-supercharger-and-a-hissing-sound-in-engine-bay Heres a sound recording. http://picosong.com/33X8/ Go to about 30 seconds. There is a indisputable whine. As I said it doesn't always happen mostly when the car is warm. About the stock Side mount intercooler vs a front mount. I don't push the car for extended periods. I have "spirited drivings" stints but only for a minute or so before giving it a break. I generally try to go easy on the car and not overwork it. On top of this I have a nismo 400r kit with no mesh in the side ports so I assume the smic is getting very good airflow. I've seen people run the smic running 15psi and making good power about 220+rwkw. Both in real life and some SAU members. Whether this is a good idea or I dont know. I was looking at upgrading to a r34 smic. What sort of power is the R34 SMIC good up to? Id love to go a fmic they arent too much about $400 as you said or so for a kit but it seems its one of the first things the cops see and defect you for?

No I'm not guessing. I made sure I asked him if its the same turbo from the same seller.. I'm not going off looks. There are many variables to whether something is considered to be seeling like hotcakes as you can see whether it is good or not. Maybe this is the case. Is there any way to test for it or re tighten bolts? It seems to happen more when the car is warmed up though. Anyway. Turbo whine my car http://tinypic.com/r/eqshhc/6 Another R33 GTS-T completely stock No turbo whine http://tinypic.com/p...p?v=33o6vcg&s=6 and it does sound like every other turbo whine out there. Also my oil pressure guage is reading just above 0 many times at idle and barely kreep up under accel. Many times I restart the car and it reads normal. Im guessing its the guage and not some oil pressure problem that has blown the turbo.

In case this is usefull to anyone here are some Bolt in options I persnally came accross from cheapest to most expensive 1. Ali express turbo -$254 incl shipping to AUS (shipping used to be cheaper and with log in discounts can get down to about $210) http://www.aliexpress.com/item/turbo-charger-for-nissan-skyline-RB20-25-engine/533424942.html 2. Ebay turbo from maxspeedingrods- $400 incl shipping http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Skyline-RB20-RB25-directly-bolt-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-/150572177522?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item230ecd1872 I have had a few SAU members tell me it works good up to 18psi they ran it to. Feedback on ebay seems to be all positive for this turbo. But once you leave feedback you cant change it so its unknown if it is all trouble free down the line. 3.Ebay turbo from maxspeedingrods wastegate rated to 21.4psi- $450 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R32-R33-R34-RB25-RB20-2-0-2-5-S2-bolt-on-Turbo-Turbocharger-/200745050295?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ebd5660b7 I think this is the exact same unit with a smaller wastegate bore. KLS turbo from 99autoshop -~$800 inc shipping http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230873216714?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Hyper gear ATR43- Starting from $900 http://www.digi-hardware.com/atr43.html Good reputation can make around 300rkw with supporting mods, You can also get your current turbo rebuilt for less or hi flowed for more. contact them for more details. Garrett Turbocharger 3" GT3071R HKS GT2835 w/ T25 .64 Hsg & Adjustable Actuator - $1450

First of all abuse in this thread? Lol what? Like I said, I DO appreciate all input even if I seem to protest to it i take it onboard, but I will come out and point out if something doesn't make sense to me. If I buy the stock replacement what guarantees do I have it will be in good condition? It could be the same as mine. Not to mention they go for a similar same price range as the ebay one as well. Nah m8 the stock turbo is still spooling. It doesn't seem to be acting much differently aside from the noise since this started. However I am afraid to push it consistently in case debris is making it into the intake. Here is the stock turbo, about half throttle, about 1pm on 25c day. View My Video Here its a bit colder at night, 10 psi. About half throttle at first then kreeping to 3/4 throttle. I wassnt going for a 0-100, just normal pulling away but it turned out that way. View My Video Note: the speeding is reading lower than actual speed by about 5% Thats what I figure too.I was having a look at ebay feedback and contacted some members and they seem to be running the ebay replacement on stock cars with no dramas. This is what makes me think I should soend $800 or so on a proper hi flow job. But the ebay turbo people ehave been running on 18pis for years and there is another one for $50 more than can handle 22psi apparently. Surely Running one at 14 psi max or whatever the ECU shits out at will be ok? Lol @ homosexual advice.. Yes stock turbo 14psi =problem because the stock turbo blades cant handle it. A 3076 with the same boost =blown engine because it is not the same dimensions or flow as the stanard one and the engine is probably getting way too much air and not enough fuel. Running lean =blown motor. but I am not really fitting a non stock turbo in the true sense of the word. I think the ebay unit is bassicaly the same dimensions with steel blades instead of cermaic and this might mean it can hanlde some extra psi but it wont neccesarily force majour changes? And even if I do find for some reason its flowing/pulling much better than the stock one, I can back of a bit on boost and stay behind what the stock parts can handle. Im not making serious power here. In the future if I do decide to upp the psi on the ebay turbo to see if it can really handle 15+ psi yes I wil be needing new AFM and ECU at the least.

Thanks for the advice. I think most recommendations are out of my price range and my options are limited only to what I always knew and that is a cheap ebay or ali baba turbo with a good rep (which is easier said than done). Thanks jatsta and that number guy. Thats at least two members who have had success with the turbo i posted in OP. I know this likely to make me unpopular but this has never stopped me in the past. Many seem blind to the existence of cheaper options because its not reputable or cool and refuse to acknowledge it. I just want to know what works. I hate poor quality knock offs at heart. Many times they simply cause more pain than they are worth. Etc you buy a cheap turbo, spend time or money to fit and and if it fails you that money is down the drain AND you need another turbo again AND you may damage your engine. But this is different to what many people in the enthusiast scene are doing. Just blindly writing off anything that is not popular and expensive or making fun of it. I'm not a tight ass, I just plain dead don't have the money to be afford anything better. Id rather drive a cheap skyline and have a chance at being happy with it than not at all. I love to be able to support companies that are enthusiastic about quality and performance like hypergear, instead of mass produced low quality items. I never asked or expected to make 600kw with a $400 ebay turbo. Just something to work at least as well as a stock one, something better is a bonus If it wasnt for the ebay turbos I would have to drive my car with the whine barely boosting so the turbo doesn't shatter. I also found this turbo http://www.aliexpress.com/item/turbo-charger-for-nissan-skyline-RB20-25-engine/533424942.html If you sign in 14 days in a row on the website you get a $30 voucher, Plus $5 discount when you pay with mastercard. That makes this a direct bolt in turbo roughly $200 AU delivered. How well it works I have no idea. The ebay one I now do know works well thanks to two SAU memebrs.

Anway here is a video.Ther is a lot of wind noise hitting the microphone, but mainly during the second pard and its clearly distinguishable. Sounds like somoene is blowing into the mic vs the clear hiss at the beggining of the video View My Video

Thanks for the repies guys. I think the whine is from the turbo the hiss not so sure. Ive decided to try a new turbo ill have a look for the hiss or get somonene to when doing turbo Inatke manifold isnt in perfect condition but I dont hear the noise from there If Im taking the turbo out with the help of a friend I better have a new turbo ready to go in. Not the mecanicall gifted enough to be able to pop stuff in and out on my own. They seem firm Its possible, but car is boosting normally just new sound appeared. Oringial turbo 210km You talking about the nissan consiult video yea? Its all over the place isnt it... Engine is Rb25DEt on an ECR33 Auto Nope its tight.

Ebay ones are all I can afford. I have heard some of them last fine if not thrashed, I am not planning on being too harsh on the replacement turbo. Ill be happy if it can handle 10psi. But since you mention all those upgrades. Yup I realise there are MANY things to upgrade before you upgrade the turbo normally. But since I'm in need of a a new turbo it changed my priority. And isn't worst case scenario if you fit a better turbo without all those upgrades slightly less power down low and more lag? I'm ok with that in the meantime. Only Current mods are 2 stage electronic boost controller. 255lph fuel pump Nismo FUel pressure regulator Yellow jacket coils with Bcpr6es. I haven't really experienced knocking or fuel cut. I don't think I am running rich or lean. So if I haven't hit a limit on these I dont see the point of upgrading them for low boost applications especially since I need a new turbo first. Ill have a look around. I had a look at some high flow prices they seem to be about 1.5k. Wouldn't mind a second hand turbo off somoene who is upgrading but id prefer to hear it running in a car first otherwise what guarantee do you have it wont be blown? At least with an ebay turbo you have a 1 year warranty, or so it says. Anyway, I know many sau members hate ebay turbos but humor me and tell me how much modification do you need to fit a non standard turbo such as a kkr480 into a r33 gts For example this http://www.aliexpress.com/item/KKR480-T480-Nissan-Silvia-RB25DET-RB30ET-2-5-4-0L-T3-A-R-50-A-R/617283830.html

I'm looking at changing my R33 gtst Turbo soon (mine is sounding whiny). I figure while I'm at it I can try to get something better than stock turbo but I doubt it is possible on very tight budget? What are my options, If prefer to keep it close to $500. The Cheaper the better. If an upgrade is not possible I'll settle for a similarly performing replacement unit There are a few $200-$400 dollar turbos online that suit rb25. But I'm a little confused how aftermarket turbos compare to a stock one. I see a lot of turbos saying they are rated up to 430hp etc or 550hp but they dont all tell you how much PSI they can handle safely I know 10psi is the safe limit for a stock turbo but how does it compare to some cheap ebay turbos? Has anyone had any experience with this one? http://www.ebay.com....#ht_4720wt_1141

thr trouble is even if you get new coils the wiring loom abd other components aren't necessarily. on top of this most people do run higher than stock 5 psi boost by a long shot. if you run too high a gap consequences are engine damage, too low just less fuel economy. some run 0.6. but imo 0.8 is good midleground for most.

Yea I am in syd. Sounds good I'll take you up on that offer. Maybe you can figure out why I cant outpace a Kio Rio till about 120kph even on 12psi

Will do but I really couldn't see anything broken. Does everything look ok on the nissan consult. Powered by VideoBam - Free Video Hosting

I used bcpr6es and car ran much better. I wouldn't get 1.1mm even with new coils.

I've got the same problem sometimes also. A lot of on/off click clacks that dont seem to be related to temperature eg it will switch off when its hot but stay on when its cold. Its definitely electrical related. Putting new or more gas would just make the on states cool better. I'm a bit pissed manufacturers dont allow control over an always on a/c state For example you have 18 degrees and then pressing the down arrow again for temp sets it to "Cool" which is always on. That way we can take any sensors out of affecting anything. I wonder if there is a way to modify anything to disable the sensors or report an always hot state.

yellowjackets are perfect. Great quality. I wouldn't say its rolling a dice.

Try cleaning your aac valvle and add some injector cleaner. Solved most of my issues. I had the same thing.

I got a working set too. In syd

I'd like zombie33

If hes diagnosing misfire issues going 1.1mm goes against narrowing down the problem. In less than ideal conditions 1.1mm gapped plugs can cause misfiring even if there is no other issues. Why make troubleshooting harder for yourself. Bcpr6es are great for avoiding misfires as far as plugs are concerned IMO. Avoid anything -11. Or gap them yourself.

the worst thing he can do now is go 1.1. stay at 0.8 or lower to keep that variable off the table

Simple to find out go a different brand and fit them. Too bad you guys are in melb I have a tested working set of coils and ngk-r plugs you could have tried.

Do you have $400 to burn on new yellow jacket coils? I have these and they work silky smooth with lots of room to spare. Also hate to say it but you have never poured anything other than 98 RON fuel in there? I reccmend shell V power. Have you replaced you fuel filter? Check your fuel pressures. It may be your pump your your fuel pressure regulator gone bad as well. If I were you I would fit a new fuel filter, change to thicker oil like full syntetic 15w-50, 6 new yellow jacket coil packs and new plugs bcpr6es are good but try 7es as well. Fill up with Shell V Power. Reset ECU. Thats a good start imo.

I had a normal Pod filter setup in my R33 Gts-t. Just hanging in engine bay no heat shield. Instead of routing a CAI I decided to try a stock air filter and intake setup. First few days the car drove fine. No more loud induction sound and no loss of performance, all I could hear is comparatively subtle turbo spool which was mostly masked by induction noise in the past. Now a few days later I hear a turbo spool in addition to a uncanny supercharger noise whine The only thing Ive done is took out the pod filter, cleaned the air flow sensor, and fitted the stock intake. I also let someone drive my car unattended out of sight for about 10 minutes which I normally never do. The car is still boosting what I ask of it according to my guage, which is 6psi stage 1 and 10-11psi stage 2 but it seems a loss of power is becoming more and more prominent in addition to staggered performance. I cant be sure though as this car seems to be very temperamental and is sometimes fast and sometimes barely fast enough to move up a few kph given many seconds ( I think my nismo fuel pressure regulator is not adjusted correctly as well), but I think my turbo is going?.... I have recently did spark plugs and put in new yellowjacket coils. I also just noticed there is a vaccum leak hissing type sound when you stand over the engine bay as well when the engine is idling. I am very sure this is new. I checked the hoses and vacuums I can and its annoying I cant find where its coming from. Anyway Here is a sound clip from inside the cabin, windows closed. Boosting 10psi full throttle, 2 times before 38 second mark, about 65-110kph At the 38 sec mark popped the car in neutral doing 40 and revved it so you can hear the whine with less road noise http://picosong.com/33X8/ If got a poor vid of the hissing sound in the engine bay which I'll try post but Im moving all over the place because I was trying to find a good spot. Anywhere in syd I can get the car casually looked at/advice given without paying for an inspection, Or any friendly members that do it for the hell of it and a pizza + beer like mazda/eunos enthusiasts cos they are such rare breeds ( damn those solenoids and vacuum hoses)

Ok some developments on the issue. First I'll reply to some posts. I think the guy doing the first 2 alignments just parks the car with the wheels straight and hopes the wheel doesn't move during adjustment. This was a reputable recommended place and the guy has 30 years experience I was told. I have the original caster rods, but I've had white line Poly bushes put in a few weeks ago. Big improvement to stability after that. While the mechanic was doing the bushes he said my tie rod boots were worn so I decided to change them too which resulted in the problems of this thread. I should have stopped after caster bushes car was driving great. The new tie rods brought me nothing but pain and lost money, and probably damage to hubs etc, Yup, I figured as much but wasn't 100%. The reason I asked about ackerman is because the car felt so funny not just on straights but on corners as well. I now know why though its because the alignment was skewed, and in varying amounts on each wheel. I asked for 0 0 toe because I haven't found a alignment place I have confidence in and I prefer a more neutral alignment setup. I figured with 0 0 the likelihood of getting too much out of whack is lower. The three places in my life i have taken my car for a wheel alignment the car has always been worse of and protested driving effortlessly afterwards. The 4 wheel steering on a eunos 800 I had broke a day after getting it aligned at bob jane at their recommendation and my expense after 4 new tyre set fitting and the whole car was crabbing like crazy and steering wheel about 10 degrees off. Went back 3 times and they told me its an old car it cant keep alignment This was back in 2005 and it was a near mint highway driven car that drive like a tron bike before the alignment. After that it went to a tortoise with 3 legs and a tumor and I never resolved the issue because it would have cost $1000s. Believe it or not I had a look around shops and ebay for the tie end rods and I decided on those by a long shot just by looking at the pictures. In the pics they looked top notch, looked like high grade steel, great casting, really good manufacture all round. I wasnt disappointed when they arrived. One thing I did not do is ask the mechanic to compare sizes with the old ones though. Dohh.... I'm in nsw. Shame if you were in syd would've loved to have a look at how ur wheels are sitting. Take a few pics from above the wheel guards like i have. Anyway above is the alignment after the alignment shop. Whats that like a few mm of toe out on the front left wheel and a lot of toe in on the front right? What kind of alignment is that if a customer asks for 0 0. I realise this is far from ideal way to check alignment but I'm sure the panels do not vary that much from one side to another. Car hasn't been in a accident and panels look very straight. So using this crude method to check alignment my uncle got under the car while I told him which direction to turn the tie rods. On the first go the alignment is now 90% back to how it was, the car doesnt feel like a truck without power steering or summersaults in a random direction mid corner. And this is just trying to get the tyres straight by eye! I still prefer to go somewhere but only to a place that has electronic machine and they show you the readouts, recommend settings and ask you what you want instead of just asking for the keys.