Jump to content
SAU Community

Lightened Flywheels On R33 Skylines

insu
 Share

Recommended Posts

insu Rising Star

insu

Posted
Posted

Hi, firstly I apologise if this is in the wrong section, as I wasn't sure if it should go in General, Handling etc. Secondl apologies if this has been posted before, I did run several searches looking for this information but couldnt find everything I wanted.

No doubt having said that, someone's going to post about three or four search strings proving me wrong, so apologies in advance.

Basically i'm after two bits of information.

1) Does anyone know of any places or sites that have lightweight flywheels of good quality. If physical stores, in the queensland region.

I know of Nengun and Modyourcar. Nengun have an ORC for around $550. Is this a good price?

2) My second question is for those who have taken the lightened flywheel route, for an everyday driver, what is a good weight to go for on the car? I see the majority around the 4.8-5Kg range.

I know that the lightened flywheel affects that ability of the car to provide torque, (in a sense) thus when the car has to carry more load it must work harder than normal. I was just wondering of any other side effects that are evident with a lightened flywheel. IE: Fuel usage, idle quality, highway cruising quality etc.

3) This is my last question I promise. What is a good price for a lightened flywheel, and is it better to have a stock one ground down/balanced and machined. Or buy a chrome-molly lightened one etc?

Thanks for your patience and thanks in advance to any input or advice.

-Tom

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100600-lightened-flywheels-on-r33-skylines/
Share on other sites
Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Lightened flywheels have been covered many many times before on this board.

I found the car to accelerate easier from a standing start, gear changes at wot felt quicker and much less likely to crunch, overall there was zero negatives, zero difference in fuel consumption, zero difference in vibration.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted (edited)

yer the search function can be a bit of a pain in the arse some times. Practice makes perfect. :(

I'm soon to grab a lightened flywheel, this time around I will grab one witha replaceable insert. Ceramic clutch's hammer them.

Edited by Cubes
sproosy Grand Master

sproosy

Posted
Posted
I'm soon to grab a lightened flywheel, this time around I will grab one witha  replaceable insert. Ceramic clutch's hammer them.

i second that! i had some mild wear and tear marks on my flywheel when i changed my clutch, at the time i couldnt spare the cash or have the car off the road for another week to do the flywheel properly so ye olde emmery paper had suffice as a temp thing. 10 months down the track ive noticed if im lazy with the gear changes it shudders like no tomorrow. Gearbox is on its last legs at the moment so ill do it properly this time round and get a new flywheel when the gearbox is done.

Thanks for the reminder cubes! After the box is done maybe i can join the RB30 club. I dont wanna do the motor if my gearbox is cactus. I might even try to grandpa the car round for an extra couple of months so i can do box and motor at the same time. That way the old man is happy because i wont be using his precious garage space.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...