Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anybody know where the auto door lock (at 20kms p/hour) is? Is it another box under that dash near the 105km chime?

I want to take mine out as it is playing up and trying to lock the doors when ur over 20km all the time ......sometimes when ur driving along it just keeps trying top lock em ...when they are already locked !.........anyway it must die !

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100905-auto-door-lock/
Share on other sites

I wired up my doors to central lock, so when it locks the driver's door when you start moving, it locks all the doors. Most of my passengers find it annoying... I call it the "kidnapper option".

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100905-auto-door-lock/#findComment-1844219
Share on other sites

oh... that's wierd... its only supposed to fire once. Even if the lock is jammed it should only try once.

yea thats wats it used to do but over the last few months it has started going retarted.....it doesnt always do it ...

i think there is a faulty connection somewhere where it thinks the doors arent locked when they are.. or something like that

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100905-auto-door-lock/#findComment-1844913
Share on other sites

ok well lots of fiddling and trial and error and still have the problem but i think i know what is causing it.

Firstly the other two boxes under the steering wheel (to the right of the chime box seem to do nothing ....well i couldnt figure out what they did)

I realised it might be a earthing wire ....maybe worn and shorting? against the car or soemhting like that (i have had it before witht the stereo)

So i moved on to the drivers door. Through trial and error of unplugging connections and driving. I have found it to be somehting to do with the main power window box in particular the connections that drives the rear windows up and down ( i have also had issue with these ......they wind down fine with the drivers door but wont go up - i have to wind em up using the button on the door and if that doesnt work i have to press the buttons on both the drivers door and the passanger door!)

When i removed that coonection the constant locking stopped.

Also today the motor for the drivers door burnt out (probably to do with the problem i am having)

Any way thats how far i got ...and will keep looking during the week

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100905-auto-door-lock/#findComment-1845999
Share on other sites

My car does this too. I call it the Schitzo-fighting-feature. Basically something says you're "going over 10kmh .. quick lock the door." Sometime after something else says "the driver door just got unlocked, the rest of the car should be too" so it unlocks the car,.. at which point it says to itself "I'm going over 10kmh, quick .. lock the doors".. and it goes over and over.

You have 2 options -

1- buy a new central locking/power window controller console box thing

2- lock the drivers door

I went with options 2. Since you've got trouble with your windows go option 1... also get some silicone grease and give your window rubbers a quick spray (then wipe excess off the window). It'll feel like new :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100905-auto-door-lock/#findComment-1852575
Share on other sites

you guys should use a better electrician to install your alarms/central locking actuators.

Have you guys got actuators in your driver doors? I had to install one in mine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100905-auto-door-lock/#findComment-1854684
Share on other sites

  • 6 years later...

After taking the Ceff for a quick spin around the block, i noticed that the doors auto lock at 20kmh, figured that it wouldn't be to safe to have this happening on the track.

So once again the dash came out and the drivers door card came off. I quickly worked out that the power window control thing in the door also controls the central locking.

20121119_006.jpg?w=1024

trans.gif

20121119_007.jpg?w=1024

both plugs are needed for both the power windows and central locking to work. After a quick inspection of the black plug, which had some wires running off to one of the door locks,

i noticed that there was one wire coloured in the same manner as a wire coming out of the back of the speedo behind the dash cluster. A quick multimeter test revealed that the yellow wire with a green stripe runs out of the back of the dash, to the ecm for speed cut as well as to the central door lock controller for the 20kmh auto lock feature. My sat between the purple, and blue with white wire on my loom. Yours may be different.

20121119_008.jpg?w=1024

now there are 2 option to potential fix this issue, one is to cut the offending wire, the other is to de-pin it from the plug.

first the 2 push lock needed to be bent out and the locking flap comes straight up. then you need to inset a thin flathead screwdriver into the large opening on the face of the plug and pry out the plastic clip that hold the pin inside the plug, i got frustrated and just snapped the f**ker out.

20121119_010.jpg?w=1024

Don't know if this will stop the door from locking automatically at 20 kmh as i can not get the car out of the driveway.

after the weekend i will know if this is it, and update this post.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100905-auto-door-lock/#findComment-6630820
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Scenic roads, stunning skylines, and Chickos to finish it off! Join SAU NSW as we cruise through the Royal National Park and along Lawrence Hargrave Drive to Figtree! Sunday 26th October 2025 4:30PM Meeting Waterfall Station Parking 5:00PM Cruise Departure Royal National Park > Lawrence Hargrave Dr > Memorial Dr > Sid Parrish Park 6:15PM Arrival at Sid Parrish Park Figtree Meet Location: Waterfall Station Parking Final Destination: Sid Parrish Park RSVP: https://forms.gle/E4s5SiRKQfDdypky8 *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • It's funny, as Ive seen plenty of people use them in cheap builds on YT. And they actually go okay, even though a lot of other maxspeedingrods stuff is terrible. Those turbos seem reliable enough, the only part being, a good quality turbo that is "identical" to it, will out perform it day in and day out. In both a lower boost threshold, and the ability to flow more air at the same boost pressure. As a cheap cheap replacement, not a terrible choice. For cheap and shouldn't blow in a day, not terrible (like other eBay/Temu turbos) for low cost and still decent performance, that's where the question comes in to play from the results I've seen. I'd actually find it hilarious to buy one, and strap it to a paddock basher or some other cheap as POS originally NA car, and send it to the moon!
    • The maxpeedingrods turbo is cheap and bolts on to stock parts. I think you just need a bigger silicone coupler for the intake. Its a cheap china turbo, but it's been running on mine for almost 3 years at 16-19 psi.
    • What do they look like right after you've tried to start it with everything connected? Also post photos of what they actually look like.
    • Also wanted to say, my new spark plugs are blackened looks like it's very rich. I have splitfire coilpacks but stock coilpack loom and ignitor. I tried directly grounding the ignitor ground to body as well. 
×
×
  • Create New...