Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As you come off the throttle it uses load points that have most probably not been tuned, as a result slightly detonating.

This is very hard to replicate on the dyno, one good reason the car must be taken for a street run to ensure everything is a.o.k.

One easy fix is to rip out 5degree's. If it does it thenyou know she's running a little too much ign. timing in the cells above the cells that wot uses.

Edited by Cubes

as cubes said when you back off the throttle and clutch in theres a brief moment where the airflow meter "load" will drop but revs will at the same range so youll be in cell area say 15 across ish and 4 or 5 down which wont be tuned. a map trace would easily show you which cells and then you could just take out a few degrees there

as cubes said when you back off the throttle and clutch in theres a brief moment where the airflow meter "load" will drop but revs will at the same range so youll be in cell area say 15 across ish and 4 or 5 down which wont be tuned. a map trace would easily show you which cells and then you could just take out a few degrees there

No i am not hitting rev limiter, and it is slightly rectified when i quick shift, yes.

So obviously my tuner hasnt done a proper job? He should fix this free of charge? i just got the PFC n tune on friday...

As I said earlier.. its pretty hard to get it spot on unless you take it for a good road test, which many tuners don't. Even then under some rare circumstances such as brisk hills driving you may find your self using a load point that isn't usually used as a result it may have a slightly higher detonation reading.

Its hard to get it spot on. Takes time and tweaking.

As I said earlier.. its pretty hard to get it spot on unless you take it for a good road test, which many tuners don't. Even then under some rare circumstances such as brisk hills driving you may find your self using a load point that isn't usually used as a result it may have a slightly higher detonation reading.

Its hard to get it spot on. Takes time and tweaking.

Fair enough, we took it for a road test though with the laptop connected doing a map trace, no green highlighted sections... at one stage knock went up to 88 (not while tuning this was last night)

Edited by Suspense
When changing gears i get a KNock spike on my PFC of about 60~80 sometimes...

Is this spike in between gear changes normal, or is something wrong?

Knock with throttle closed is irrelevant, no engine damage possible. Move on.

:D cheers :D

and it is slightly rectified when i quick shift, yes.

Most off us roll off the throttle quickly, we don't simply jump off it having it completely closed within a couple ms, I had to drop 2 degree's from the 2 load points above the load points used at WOT, around 3000-3500rpm from memory.

If I were to change and slap the gears quick i would not experience high knock readings. At first I suspected fuel injectors but it wasn't.

Edited by Cubes

hey got a queston simlair topic any replies appricates with my power fc when running down through the gear ie engin breaking i get quite high knock ratings ie 40 withc is much highte then even when ime on it hard i get readings of like 15 thanks guys for your replys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...