Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i found the fan blades to be one of the hardest jobs to do i rekon.... I didnt know what to use to i used side cutters and a hack saw blade... what an effort.... pretty dam bodgy but it worked....

how do other people do them out of interest??

for the pipe going over the engine and down into a hole which needs to be made....... will 3.5" hole be adequete, or should i make a 3" hole/4" hole instead???

Is just that i have a 3.5" hole saw that i can use, no other sizes available to me apart from 3.5" (89mm), unless i buy one of course, and i'll the instrctions to mark out the centerline

instructions say 3" and AL says 4"??? so confused lol

My 4" was not a measurement but an approximation, as i did not have a holesaw handy. But i placed a rubber "grommet" around the hole to make it look neat, so the hole was made bigger, and also to account for engine movement, etc.

3.5" should be a good size.

To cut the fan blades i used my "Dremmel" tool, it's great for those tight places :).

done it today, 3.5" was indeed too big lol, but i will try and find a rubber grommet to use to make it look neat as well.

Al what needed trimming on your type m front???, ive plastic welded mine and everything, i'll be taking it to the panel beater tommorow...ummm i tested it out, and it seems the only thing hitting the reinforcement bar is the headlights, which will probably need trimming, other than that, i think the bar will fit onto the reo w/o having to trim the the depth of the trimmed area (crossing fingers), letting me keep alot of depth, as the cooler sits behind the reo as i trimmed the reo bar.

Type M has fog lamps near indicator, the fog lamps make the assy deeper and will hit the fmic. The std indicators are not as deep and should not touch the fmic. I changed mine from a Type M indicator to a std type (never really liked the fog lamp anyway)

3.5" too big :). What is the diametre of the pipe, 2.5"?

Don't have a pic and my car is at the mechanic's. Using the far passenger side vent, in the front bar, i made a duct (using 4" drain pipe) to direct air directly to the unused "std ic" hole. The hole was enlarged to 4" to allow the pipe to enter the air box. I used a small 90deg to support the pipe in the box and a simi bendable metal strap to support the pipe at the front bar vent. I also lined the hole with a made up rubber grommet to hold the pipe firmly. I am pretty sure i used two 45deg bends and a few short straight pipes to make the duct.

post-1811-1138621402.jpg

post-1811-1138621766.jpg

Another quick question AL, we fitted the bumper today, to check how much clearance weare going to get, it seems the old blinkers do the trick, but i have about 5-10cm gap between the bottom of the trimmed bumper and intercooler?does this sound right??? i told them to mesh it up, but the gap looks bad or it it just me???

thanks man, heaps of help, so a 90degree bend will do the job, did you mesh up both ends of the pipes for the intake???

You can use a 90deg but it is not as good.

Using a short pipe, then a 45, then a short pipe and another 45, would make a smoother air flow.

Another quick question AL, we fitted the bumper today, to check how much clearance weare going to get, it seems the old blinkers do the trick, but i have about 5-10cm gap between the bottom of the trimmed bumper and intercooler?does this sound right??? i told them to mesh it up, but the gap looks bad or it it just me???

when you trimmed the bottom, did you trim around the little support in the middle or the bar, then welded a small piece to fill cut out (thus maintaining maximum depth)? Or did you trim just behind this mould, to not require any welding on the lower lip? When bar is fitted what is the distance between the lower lip and the fmic?

Pics would definately help...........

PS: have a close look at my pics on the first page. If you trimmed the bar for maximum depth, it should look like mine. The Hybrid installs i did for my mates look identical to mine

well the top part wasnt trimmed at all, and i got the welder to keep it that depth the whole way through, so i think i may have lost some DEPTT to the bumper???

im going to go see the welder tommrow as my car is at his garage right now, and before preppin i mite jst get him to weld more plastic as hell know exactly how much is needed now

cheers

hey, yeh its definitely the lower lip that hasnt got the depth im after!, theyve already started respray on the bumper today, and it wll be ready for pickup tommorow.

Do you think i'll be able to add more depth to the bumper later on, and have only that part resprayed? or will it look odd, and instead a full bumper respray will be needed!

one thing thats really odd AL, is that ive got the same amount of depth that you have on your trim? maybe you have your cooler mounted more infront?

Ive just thought about it, and it'd be easier to just mount the cooler more infront, instead of adding depth to the bumper, as theres already alot there...........whats the easiest way to mount the cooler more infront, longer silicon hoseS?

Edited by nsta

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...