Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guy,

I thought I would share this with you ppl

I bought a R32 GTR about 4 months ago, stock as a rock.

And not long after having it turbos let go on me, also corrosion on all plugs because the previous owner liked to wash his engine bay and some minor things as well.

After some mucking around with trying to get the turbos re-built under warranty,

Because the guy who I bought the car from had them re-built not long ago, but when they were re-built they only used 270 trust bearings not 360’s so they did not last long at all, only 500kms.

Long story short I ended up having to get new turbos because the mob up in Sydney did not want a bar of it.......

So after all that crap, I ended up buying some, Garret GT 2560R’s. Also I have fitted a 3 inch exhaust from dump pipes and a k&n panel filter. Just got it dyno today and she is getting 240rwkw with only 10 pound of boost. I am wrapped because my car has been off the road for 3 months and now I get it back tomorrow.

Has many ppl hear used the GT 2560R’s?

Next new coils, PFC and z32 air flow meters. See how that goes.

Ill post up the dyno sheet when I get access to a scanner.

Has many ppl here used the GT 2560R’s as I would like to know there results…?

Hear is the dyno sheet, Before and after i changed turbos.

post-20278-1137176510.jpg

Edited by Zardos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101646-finally-got-it-back-on-the-road/
Share on other sites

Where's Pete (pnblight) when you need him??? :) He's got some pretty big numbers out of his, about 529rwhp (394rwkws).

I've recently switched to these aswell, about 340rwkw, still need to fiddle with cam timing so there's more in it, awesome turbos, great response....

Which size did you get?? I'm using the 707160-5's...

Cheers

I am not sure ill find out tomorrow when i pick it up. Ill ask the tuner. but I know they are capable of 400hp each.... if that help’s

I think the 400hp ones are the 707160-10's, which are like 2540's... the 707160-5's are 350hp rated (each)...

Where's Pete (pnblight) when you need him??? :D  He's got some pretty big numbers out of his, about 529rwhp (394rwkws).

I've recently switched to these aswell, about 340rwkw, still need to fiddle with cam timing so there's more in it, awesome turbos, great response....

Which size did you get?? I'm using the 707160-5's...

Cheers

:lol: :lol:

HEHE the gt2560r 707-160-5 are the unit i'm using they also come in -7 -10 the easiest way to tell the difference with out seeing the name plate is the -5 is the only one with a 0.60 a/r compressor housing(where the -7 & -10 run 0.42 a/r housing). And if your making 240rwkw at 10psi wait till you get it 14psi plus as this is where they really start to wake up, Garret Australia state that there a good for 2 bar but are best run about 18psi. I'm a little concerned tho as mine setup for Turbotec would not run as low a 10psi the base setting (half a hole tension on waste gate control arm) run just under a bar.

pete

ps my advice on next steps would be a little different

i am still running std coils at 530rwhp and don't see the need to change them yet

1.APEXI PFC

2.rb20/25 afm are half the price and plug straight in (range to around 540rwhp)

z32 are good but $$ and unless your looking at big hp you will just better resultion with the rb20/25 afms. The std nismo 62mm afms unit cause more restriction that the 80 mm rb20/25 or z32 afms(plus i personally descreen mine to reduce restriction)

3.700cc injectors Sard are very well priced and easy to buy through greenline.jp or nenegun

4.Tomei poncams 260deg 9.15mm ex/inlet with adjustable wheels

=~480 to 500rwhp

pete

ps my advice on next steps would be a little different

i am still running std coils at 530rwhp and don't see the need to change them yet

1.APEXI PFC

2.rb20/25 afm are half the price and plug straight in (range to around 540rwhp)

z32 are good but $$ and unless your looking at big hp you will just better resultion with the rb20/25 afms. The std nismo 62mm afms unit cause more restriction that the 80 mm rb20/25 or z32 afms(plus i personally descreen mine to reduce restriction)

3.700cc injectors Sard are very well priced and easy to buy through greenline.jp or nenegun

4.Tomei poncams 260deg 9.15mm ex/inlet with adjustable wheels

=~480 to 500rwhp

1. One of my coils has a faulty plug that seams to cause a miss on the odd occasions, So I though I might as well change the lot as they are quite old and want to eliminate any further problems. :P

2. That a great suggestion about the rb20/25 afm as I will look into that and get some $$, How much of a restriction do you get by leaving the screen on?

3. I will get some injectors, fuel pump and some cams later on down the track.

What is your setup/power if you don't mine me asking?

How long would the standard bottom end last if you were make around 480 to 500rwhp, so to say I was going to nail it 50% percent of your driving?

Thanks for the advice much appreciated :P

1. One of my coils has a faulty plug that seams to cause a miss on the  odd occasions, So I though I might as well change the lot as they are quite old and want to eliminate any further problems. :P

2. That a great suggestion about the rb20/25 afm as I will look into that and get some $$, How much of a restriction do you get by leaving the screen on?

3. I will get some injectors, fuel pump and some cams later on down the track.

What is your setup/power if you don't mine me asking?

How long would the standard bottom end last if you were make around 480 to 500rwhp, so to say I was going to nail it 50% percent of your driving?

Thanks for the advice much appreciated :P

ok the rb20/25afms can normally be bought around $150ea but try and get a good set.

If your got a dodgy coil fair enough was just saying it not a necessary upgrade if there healthy.

If your got a strong motor in good shape it will run that level for quiet a while, mine ran for two year (at 520 to 530rwhp) and only started to show signs of getting tired after i had to leave my gtr with my brother and when i got back it wasn't the same, so i find it hard to blame the car for that. I have talk to Kier Wilson about the limitations on std engine and his opinion after putting a few through there passes is the still engine will surport round 700 to 750bhp (but i worn we are talking about new std components not a tired 15 year engine) R32 are a bit like a box chocolates hehee you never know as there get a bit old.

So if you want to run the gtr hard and live in std form you have adopt so habits like always let it warm up fully before thrashing it, service it regularly and run good products and it is best to adopt a lower boost setting for genernal every day driving .I run about 14psi every day (which is still around 460 to 470rwhp in my car)

pete

ok the rb20/25afms can normally be bought around $150ea but try and get a good set.

If your got a dodgy coil fair enough was just saying it not a necessary upgrade if there healthy.

If your got a strong motor in good shape it will run that level for quiet a while, mine ran for two year (at 520 to 530rwhp) and only started to show signs of getting tired after i had to leave my gtr with my brother and when i got back it wasn't the same, so i find it hard to blame the car for that. I have talk to Kier Wilson about the limitations on std engine and his opinion after putting a few through there passes is the still engine will surport round 700 to 750bhp (but i worn we are talking about new std components not a tired 15 year engine) R32 are a bit like a box chocolates hehee you never know as there get a bit old.

So if you want to run the gtr hard and live in std form you have adopt so habits like always let it warm up fully before thrashing it, service it regularly and run good products and it is best to adopt a lower boost setting for genernal every day driving .I run about 14psi every day (which is still around 460 to 470rwhp in my car)

pete

Thanks for that, I value your input as it helps a lot. ;) My coils arrived today and I slapped them in, seems that the problem with the miss has gone, I have been driving all day and night and not one problem :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...