Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

I have a choice between the Pirelli Dragons or the Falken FK451's.

The Pirellis being $100 more for a set of 4.

The only problem I see is that the Pirellis are an asymmetrical tread, meaning I wont be able to rotate the tyres.

Has anyone any experience or knowledge about either of these tyres?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101792-pirelli-dragon-or-falken-fk451/
Share on other sites

I was under the impression that the Falken are directional so you will only be able to go front to back (not side to side)

The Dragon's are non-directional so you can move them anywhere - the outside of the tyre will always remain the outside of the tyre so the asymetry doesn't matter.

But I have no experiance driving on either tyre. I've been looking recently and decided on the Pilot Preceda from Michelin for my S13.

Cheers

Adrian

The falken fk451 are the best road tyres I have driven on they are great.

I've never tried the pirellis, but I would be amazed if a well established brand can do better tyres at around the same price :P

The dragons I believe are asymmetrical as describe dby their site.

In other words, the outer side of the tyre must remain on the outside. So tyres cannot be rotated diagonally, only from front to back.

Have read a few threads about the 451s and people seem to think they are on par with the Azeni ST115 if not better.

How much are a set of 451 in 18"?

assymetrical tyres can be moved to any wheel as long as they are not directional as well.

The outside of the wheel is always the outside no matter which way the wheel is turning. Just need the tyre shop to put them on properly. This is a main reason we use assymetric tyres at targa the spare will fit on any wheel 245/45/17 all round

Then are these directional?

http://www.au.pirelli.com/en_AU/tyres/cata...productid=17126

So which tyres can I rotate? both the Falken 451s and the Pirelli Dragons?

Very confused. So asymmetrical doesnt mean anything with regards to rotating, but directional does?

Edited by nuffsaid

According to Pirellie website Dragon are assymetric not directional.

Its pretty straightforward, with assymetrical the tyre can only be fitted on the rim one way ie there is an inside and an outside of the tyre. But no matter which corner you put the wheel on inside is always inside and outside is always outside.

With directional tyres they are only designed to roll one way, it is marked on the tyre. When the tyre place puts them on the rim they are either mounted for left or right side of the car. You will be able to see by the arrow on the sidewall which way it turns.

You can only swap directional tyres from side to side if they take them right off the rim and put them back on the other way around.

Thats the best I can explain without pics.

All good I understand now.

So with pure asymmetrical, I can rotate diagonally without taking nthe rubber of the wheel. Whereas with directional you have to in order to swap sides or leave em on if u want to swap back to front etc.

Would anyone choose the Pirellis over the Falkens? If so why?

And are asymmetrical better than directional?

You can rotate any tyre, as long as you pay someone to peel it off the rim. I do that, since my front and rear rims are different sizes and I tend to get directional tyres.

Anyway, Pirellis always seem to do badly on Motor and Wheels' annual tyre tests. Not just for their exorbitant price; they do badly in general. Last year, the brand new P Zeros tested on the XR6T got pwned by the 15,000km old (and we're talking journo k's, so none of them were gentle) OEM tyres.

You can rotate any tyre, as long as you pay someone to peel it off the rim. I do that, since my front and rear rims are different sizes and I tend to get directional tyres.

Not so dude , symetrical tyres can only be fitted left or right you cant swap the tyre on the wheel as it has an inner and an out fitting and they are different .

On the other hand non symetrical rotational tyres can be swapped on the rim and used on the side of the car .

Not so dude , symetrical tyres can only be fitted left or right you cant swap the tyre on the wheel as it has an inner and an out fitting and they are different .

On the other hand non symetrical rotational tyres can be swapped on the rim and used on the side of the car .

Might opt for teh Falkens.

Seems like the Pirellis, because they are asymmetrical, will be hard to rotate because if the inside of the tyre wears out quicker, when you rotate, the inside will still be the inside.

I noticed that with Skylines, the insides of both front and rear tyres seem to wear quicker when slightly lowered, so rotating a worn inner tyre at the front to the back doesnt really help.

Not so dude , symetrical tyres can only be fitted left or right you cant swap the tyre on the wheel as it has an inner and an out fitting and they are different .

On the other hand non symetrical rotational tyres can be swapped on the rim and used on the side of the car .

OK now I am confused. I've never come across an assymetrical and directional tyre that would be a PITA.

There is no problem moving your average directional tyre from one side to another if you rotate it on the rim like scathing said. Directional tyres I have rotated include dunlop DJ01, bridgestone re55s, kumho 711 and 712, falken RS-V04, FK451 and ST115, yoko A032R and A048R. Im not saying there are none you cant rotate but i have never come across one. When they are fittted to the rim they are either left or right but can be swapped by removing from the rim

The only assymetric tyres I have used are Dunlop DZ02G, once they are on a rim you can put them on any corner.

Most general road tyres are niether directional or assymetric, so the tyre fitter can fit them any way on any corner.

Most general road tyres are niether directional or assymetric, so the tyre fitter can fit them any way on any corner.

Thats true too Duncan but there are few that are either left or right so they can only be fitted one way . Yoko andvan use to have them i dont know if they still do though but generaly they are not widely used, they are very rare .

I would go for the fk451. Like everyone always says, they are very very good.

I agree with what was said about. I have never liked Pirellis. They are always soft which gives the illusion that they give good traction. They have poor life since they're soft, yet the traction is not that good.

I've driven on the 451s in my rwd skyline and in the wet, I can hit corners at almost double the speed of my daily driver with commuter tyres.

NB: the above cornering was done under controlled safe conditions.

OK now I am confused.  I've never come across an assymetrical and directional tyre that would be a PITA.

There is no problem moving your average directional tyre from one side to another if you rotate it on the rim like scathing said.  Directional tyres I have rotated include dunlop DJ01, bridgestone re55s, kumho 711 and 712, falken RS-V04, FK451 and

My bridgestone RE55S tyres are asymmetric and directional. That is, you purchase

a tyre for a particular side of the car and 'rotation' is front-to-back only.

There are a couple of different RE55S models; I've only ever bought the WT tyres. Perhaps your RE55S are a different model?

Regards,

Saliya

post-14974-1137971854.jpgpost-14974-1137972025.jpg

I chose a 235/40 FK451, much more comfortable than my thicker sidewalled Yoko DNA GPs. I think the Yokos had a very stiff sidewall.

The Falkens seen okay, driven 50kms on them. Was slippery in the dry at first because I think of the release agent thats on the rubber, but seems to be better now.

Dont know how many kms it needs to be scrubbed in though. Anyone know?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...