Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

need new tyres? buy these rims and sell your old rims!

Item: 17" sparco LT's w/ 8-90% tread Yokohama

Location: sydney

Item Condition: very good, no scratches / curb rash

Reason for Selling: need money

Price and Payment Conditions: 1400 quick sale

Extra Info:

Contact Details: PM here or email [email protected]

Actual rims:

finally.jpg

on old car:

20050814-R34S14-02.jpg

OFFSET is for GTR. Will fit Silvia's also.

Edited by Infamoz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101919-17s-deep-dish-black-sparco/
Share on other sites

Yes they are multistud - and as you can see obviously fit onto Silvias and Skylines wit no problems.

The offset, I am not 100% sure, the tyres are 235's on all fours and look a bit stretched. All four wheels are identical, as they were off a GTR previously (hence GTR offset).

They looked VERY nice on my s14a with full vertex kit - very fat.

Edited by Infamoz
Yes they are multistud - and as you can see obviously fit onto Silvias and Skylines wit no problems.

The offset, I am not 100% sure, the tyres are 235's on all fours and look a bit stretched. All four wheels are identical, as they were off a GTR previously (hence GTR offset).

They looked VERY nice on my s14a with full vertex kit - very fat.

Without knowing the width and offset I don't see how anyone will buy them.

:P cheers :)

Yes they are multistud - and as you can see obviously fit onto Silvias and Skylines wit no problems.

By that do you mean they are 4x114.3 also, or are they 5x100 as well as the 5x114.3

180_mph, they are definately 5x114.3 because as you can see, they have been fit to an S15 and 14 no problems. For the other measurements, I really DO NOT know, but anyone can come try it out before they buy it.

I am in Sydney.

Shipping to melb would be around $150 I think, if you want to do that, then we can negotiate something, PM me and we'll exchange numbers.

Once again, all four wheels are exactly the same dimensions, rubber is very good, and they are 235/17/45 all around.

STILL FOR SALE.

Measuring the width of the wheels, it is approx 250-260 mm in width.

These wheels are doing nothing but sitting in my garage, they want to be put on a car and used. Somebody buy them, price is negotiable within limits - remember, it's basically got new tyres on them.

I am in SYDNEY.

Edited by Infamoz

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
×
×
  • Create New...