Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

0.9 Bar = 13.23 psi

Any tuned, advanced timing, 12.0 : 1 AFRs stock turbo (standard PFC tune style car) is a ticking time bomb.

A stock turbo, on stock computer will last a little longer because you aren't advancing the timing and dropping AFRs which both create heat in the exhaust.

Heat on ceramic exhaust wheel is just asking for a delaminated turbine entering your cat converter.

i was talking to a guy with a 500rwhp r33 skyline who was telling before he built the monster he had that he ran his stock turbo on 18psi for 2 years and it was still perfect when he took it out of the car. He was saying that its all about have the supporting mods to ensure the turbo doesnt deteriorate eg a big exhaust to let the heat exscape fast, Good intercooler, ect ect. I wouldnt want to try it myself but he knows his shit and managed to make it work some how....

this guy u were talkin 2 wudnt happen 2 b from th gold coast would he.

i was talkin a fella there one night with a black r33 with 500hp who gave me th same bllsht spiel. 18psi for two yrs then put it on a rb20 cos it was stil perfect. he's a wanker mate. he told me running leaner would reduce my exhaust temps. the thing he thort was th coolest bout his car was that it stil had th standard head gasket. wanker

ive had my hi boost setting on my boost controller set at 14.5 psi for the past month or so only running that pressure every now and then and it seems fine. but i suppose prolonged use (track use)at this boost level may blow it. My bro also had a brand new r34 turbo put on his s2 r33 he was running 16 psi everynow and then for a year or two and it never blew. he has since upgraded the turbo after it was taken off we carfeully inspected the turbo and it is still perfect to shaft play scoring broken bits etc.

so i guess as long as you arent hammering your car all day everyday at 14-16psi the turbo will be ok for little bursts just to feel what a skyline would be like with a better turbo.

before any of you get all excited and tell me that what i am saying is bullshit. let me tell you that what i have said is actually what i have experienced and am currently doing.

my auto does not like it above 11psi or it pops de to fuel cut i think and if i turn it down on high revs i get a much better power band same mods as usual

fmic

pod

3'turbo back + hfc

eboost2

james

this guy u were talkin 2 wudnt happen 2 b from th gold coast would he.

i was talkin a fella there one night with a black r33 with 500hp who gave me th same bllsht spiel. 18psi for two yrs then put it on a rb20 cos it was stil perfect. he's a wanker mate. he told me running leaner would reduce my exhaust temps. the thing he thort was th coolest bout his car was that it stil had th standard head gasket. wanker

rofl thats the one :)

This 14psi = kill turbo thing everyone talks about seems to be a bit of a bell curve if you ask me.

The majarity of them will die round 14psi. Some even die at stock boost and some just seem to take crazy amounts of boost.

Its up to you if you want to run more boost but the risk off it dieing will increase accordingly. You may be lucky and then again.

Also if it does die it could also at a very off chance kill your engine as the ceramic bits from the wheel do wonder to the bore if they get in there if you know what I mean.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...