Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I've done abit of a search and couldn't find anything on transmittion overheating.

I had big problem driving back from Canberra to Sydney today in the big rain.

just as I was nearing the exit of the M5 onto king georges road, my R32 GTR started having some power problems. The power started flucuating. and constantly losing power and then getting a bit back and then losing it again. but the front torque meter would go wild.

I checked that my clutch wasn't slipping (no spike in revs)

oil pressure was ok, as was the water temp, no tyres were flat.

When I stopped at the lights, the idle was going up and down abit but nothing over 1K.

and when I tried to move off the lights, It almost didn't move, maybe moving 5km/h, no power, no boost, nothing. I finally pulled over to the side popped the bonnet to smell if anything was burning(nothing out of the ordinary) and rested the car for about 5 minutes, and then the car was running fine again, except the 4wd and abs light went on.

is this the transmittion fluid overheating? or something worse? I haven't driven the car yet and decided to give it at least an over night rest. The lump between the front seats was getting rather hot.

can someone tell me if this could be anything serious? any permanent damage?

any help would be appreicated.

thanks

Michael

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102102-transmission-fluid-overheat/
Share on other sites

The lump between the front seats was getting rather hot.

Based on this, it's possible you overheated the ATESSA fluid (4WD transfer case). Driving in the rain might have caused the system to engage/dis-engage 4WD many, many times due to the system detecting wheel slippage which would generate a lot of heat after a period of time. Might even cause the fluid to degrade and then the ATESSA clutch pack would be affected.

It's worth noting that R32 GTR's built for Australia had an extra cooling system added for the ATESSA system with it's own pump and small 'radiator'. Perhaps you've found out why...... (I'm assuming here that yours is an 'import')

Anyway, first thing I'd do is change the ATESSA fluid - ATF (Dexron III) is fine.

Thanks for that, I took my car out for a drive today everything seemed to be ok except the 4wd and abs lights come on straight away when I start the car.

I check the atessa fluid in the boot, it looked full but quite brown. hopefully it will be a simple problem fixed.

do you know if there is any problem driving the car with this problem? other than no 4wd or abs? eg, will it damage the car in anyway.

cheers

Thanks for that, I took my car out for a drive today everything seemed to be ok except the 4wd and abs lights come on straight away when I start the car.

I check the atessa fluid in the boot, it looked full but quite brown. hopefully it will be a simple problem fixed.

do you know if there is any problem driving the car with this problem? other than no 4wd or abs? eg, will it damage the car in anyway.

Well assuming that is the problem, about the worst that could happen I suppose is that the clutch in the transfer case will be fried, meaning no 4WD, but the car should still be driveable. Personally I'd be taking it real easy and getting it looked at ASAP.

The fluid in the reservoir in the boot is actually seperate from the fluid in the transfer case (although they're both part of the ATESSA system), but from your description of the colour I'd be changing it ASAP as well as the fluid in the transfer case.

  • 3 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...