Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering if you guys have heard of or use Nulon Product's

E.g Engine Oil, Product Additives .. etc

Especially the E20 "Nulon Performance Engine Treatment"

it is recommended for Turbo charged engines.

http://www.nulon.com.au/

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated

Kind Regards

Steve

Edited by smok3y
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102199-nulon-products/
Share on other sites

I'm pretty happy with their Injector cleaner. Haven't had a chance to fully evaluate the E20 - only had it in for about 300km before a broken piston assisted the deposit of the sump contents all over the RH engine bay (via dipstick pipe).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102199-nulon-products/#findComment-1874201
Share on other sites

its known as "snake oil" and if you put it near your car your crazy.

run a search on ptfe or teflon additives through google, then tell me you want to put it near your car.

if it was good, don't you think oil companies and car manufacturers would use it in the first place...

Infact save you the time.

Read this article, tells you all you would ever need to know about ptfe.

http://www.oldengine.org/unfaq/additive.htm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102199-nulon-products/#findComment-1874669
Share on other sites

Only product I use is their Pro Octane Boost - and only when I am doing track work.

In a comparitive test done by Fast Fours magazine it was equal first for increasing the octane value of fuel.

Good track insurance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102199-nulon-products/#findComment-1876812
Share on other sites

We use Nulon assembly lube on every engine we assemble. I couldn't recommend it highly enough. We don't use it on pistons or rings but all bearings, valves, cams etc get a coat of it. We've never had a problem with an engine having bearing or cam damage on start up, it's cheap insurance when someone else will be starting the engine and you don't know if they will crank the engine to get oil pressure before it starts. You would be suprised to know how many mechanics don't do this. The oil should be changed withing the first few hundred km anyway and then you can rely on the oil you use.

I don't use any oil additives once the engine is up and running, I think the oil manufacturers know more about oil than I do and they know what to put in it. Who is to know if the additive will work properly with the other additives that are put in the oil when it is made. You may reduce the effectiveness of the oil you are using by using additives.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102199-nulon-products/#findComment-1879201
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was that with the cas upside or correct way up?
    • Did and sync timing with light 
    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
×
×
  • Create New...