Jump to content
SAU Community

Odometer


Recommended Posts

  • 2 years later...

Sorry to dig up an old thread but this happened to my R33 today. Odometer (including trip meter) stopped working, stuck on 89,XXXkms now..

Any opinions on whether it's better to repair or replace? I think I might just get it repaired so I can keep the genuine (or not so genuine.. as the case may be) kms. If it stops working is that a definite sign of tamperage.. kinda dissapointed cause I thought my k's were genuine (judging from condition of car). How does the R33's odometer work? I think i saw in this thread or another that it's electric?

I'm tempted to leave it cause I hate watching the K's get closer to 100k but a) I dont want to be dodgy and B) prolly already done 100k lol..

Also, I'm in Northern NSW.. only place close I've found that might fix it is in grafton so may as well go up the coast.. Gavin Woods you reckon?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10266-odometer/page/2/#findComment-1714417
Share on other sites

cogs, take the dash out, just a few screws, then there are 3 plugs behind the dash which you can unplug and then take the plastic cover off the dash and get like a little needle or something and give the last digit which is km a push along like so that it shows the number, and then plug the 3 things back into the back and take the car for a drive just to see if the odometer starts working again which it should. if not ss automotive sells the cluster, they are alot cheaper then just jap from memory.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10266-odometer/page/2/#findComment-1721232
Share on other sites

ive taken my cluster out about 6 times in the last 2 months.... i've given up now... everytime i take it out.. i play with the cogs and it starts working again (sometimes just taking it out makes it start working).

Once it stops its screwed i'd say...it will just keep randomly stopping / starting..

Just buy a used one and hope it also doesnt stop i guess..

thats what im gonna do

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10266-odometer/page/2/#findComment-1721481
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I had a similar problem... if you take the odometer assembly out, look for the white connector. My problem was a loose connection there. I ran the car for a while with the instrument cluster apart, if i applied pressure to the the white connector the odometer would tick over, if i took my finger off it would stop. Have a look there....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10266-odometer/page/2/#findComment-1756127
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Anyone who bought recently from a yard and has a dodgy odometer should take it back and:

1. Get it fixed

2. Get the timing belt changed by them (as you cannot be sure of how many kms the car has done).

I had the same thing from day one, odometer would start and stop. Got the seller to do the belts at 68,000kms (supposedly).

I have now added another 100,000kms and changed the timing belt myself since.

Anyhow... be aware that if your odometer is iffy, then you should do the timing belt as soon as possible (for the price of doing this it is great insurance that your engine will not go bang).

El Bee

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10266-odometer/page/2/#findComment-1823159
Share on other sites

Dam, all these 93 model cars with 50-60 thousand K's on the clock is funny. My car has close to 150,000Km on the clock and its a 96 Series 2. I reckon its fair to say that they are pretty original, but you never know.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10266-odometer/page/2/#findComment-1823536
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...