Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, got a SII R33 with some small issues =)

Front left wheel makes a knock if I brake when reversing, only when reversing though. Took the wheel off and had a look and the hub that goes over the studs has the slightest amount of play in it, we're talking 1-2mm tops. From what I understand this should not be a major issue? If anyone has had this before, did you fix it, if so how and did it cause any problems?

Rear left wheel hums over 60km/h, put it on a stand and drove it, still hummed so it's not a tyre. Took the wheel off, all looks normal so I imagine it's a dry/worn wheel bearing or one of the CV joint type looking things on the shafts. Anyone replaced any of this stuff before and can tell me what's involved or suggest what else it might be?

Cheers!

Are your brake-pads tight in the caliper? Checked the caliper bolts are on tight to the bracket? Sounds like something is shifting position... although a loose hub is weird... all the cars i've ever owned have really tight hubs, with no play at all. Might be worth checking your bolt and split pin. You're talking about shaking it vertically, right?

Checked the pads, plenty of meat and definitely tight enough. The item shifting position is the hub that goes over the studs though the actual rotor itself was moveable (which as I understand is natural as it's the hub and front wheel that holds the rotor in place). It's the actual hub type cover that goes over the studs that has freeplay in it, the stud holes are slightly larger and allow 1-2mm of play when changing wheel rotation direction.

That doesn't sound right... they should be a real prick to pull off... but that explains it I think.

You go for the brakes, they lock onto the disc/rotor, which spins 1-2mm till it hits the studs?

Dunno... noone else has piped up, but I recken there's something fishy there. What sort of discs do you have on it?

Hopefully this should explain what part I mean.

Pic 1

With the wheel removed and fiddling with everything it was only the part shown that had free play, 1-2mm tops, and I can't get the wheel on there any tighter. As i understand it, the wheel provides most of the pressure to keep the hub and rotor assembly firmly in place. It's actually the holes in the hub that seem just that tiny bit too large for the studs and allows a shift when moving from a forward to reverse direction.

Anyone got info on the rear wheel issue mentioned?

Cheers

Dan

Edited by ActionDan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My apologies. I forgot we were talking about weird beard M series stuff. Had been talking elsewhere with someone about an R33 with similar subject and got confused.
    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
×
×
  • Create New...