Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, i own a Skyline R34 GTR V-Spec 2. Modifications include- HKS down pipe, Nismo de-cat exhaust system, Apexi power intake air filters, Mine's ecu, Blitz boost controller. I did a dyno test and the car is 425bhp (engine) and 315bhp (wheels). My target is to get as much as possible with stock intercooler, turbo, injectors and clutch. Hopefully around 450bhp (engine).

Previously i was contemplating whether to change the Mines ecu to a Power FC or a FconV pro. But i think its too costly.

My mechanic advised me to change my camshaft to HKS 264 cams and a fuel regulator (to increase the fuel supply). Maybe a SAFC to fine tune a little. Later perhaps changing my head gasket as well if i have cash to spare. He said this will give me around 450bhp. He said changing the the cams would also give me more torque (is this true?)

Thanks for ure advice.

Edited by GTRnewbie
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102868-camshafts-question/
Share on other sites

Hi guys, i own a Skyline R34 GTR V-Spec 2. Modifications include- HKS down pipe, Nismo de-cat exhaust system, Apexi power intake air filters, Mine's ecu, Blitz boost controller. I did a dyno test and the car is 425bhp (engine) and 315bhp (wheels). My target is to get as much as possible with stock intercooler, turbo, injectors and clutch. Hopefully around 450bhp (engine).

Previously i was contemplating whether to change the Mines ecu to a Power FC or a FconV pro. But i think its too costly.

My mechanic advised me to change my camshaft to HKS 264 cams and a fuel regulator (to increase the fuel supply). Maybe a SAFC to fine tune a little. Later perhaps changing my head gasket as well if i have cash to spare. He said this will give me around 450bhp. He said changing the the cams would also give me more torque (is this true?)

Thanks for ure advice.

Your statement is a little confusing. You can afford a 34 V-spec 2, but a power FC and tune is too costly? You want to keep stock injectors, but have cams and change head gasket?

You didnt mention where you are from, so i will assume Australia. Ditch the Mines ECU, forget SAFC, Go the Power FC and re-tune. I doubt the stock injectors will make the desired power (and definetly DO NOT get a fuel pressure reg to bump up the pressure. If the injectors are maxed there maxed)

If you want this power

*Change Injectors 550 - 700's (700 will save you doing them again if you want more power later)

*Get a Power FC and get a reputable tuner

*Stock Intercooler is fine

*Cam Gears

*If they are steel wheel turbs (which i believe the Vspec 2 came out with) they can handle 1 - 1.2 bar boost

see how you go with that combo.

the turbos, injectors and afms will be your limiting factors at round 400rwhp(480bhp)

order of best buys for returns in hp

1.APEXI pfc ($1000) with hand controller A MUST!!!!!

2.SARD 700cc injectors($700) i would replace afms at same time a set of rb20/25afms ($300 sec hand)

3. TOMEI poncams 260deg 9.15mm lift with adjustable wheels (~$1300)

*forget about head gasket unless you blow one as it is a hugh costly job and will give you next to nothing at this level of mod.

*do the cams last as if you dont upgrade the injectors and afms first you will not be able use them to there fullest and there for waste time and money tuning.

*the r34 turbos are ceramic and i would not run them above 1.1bar at the very most unless you want to rebuild the motor like the r34 i just finished rebuild due to a blow r34 ball bearing turbo.

*if you get serious about a bit hp upgrade your turbos to something like gt2560r 707160-5 or the 2530 HKS as they are bolts and give the best around package power and responce

pete

Ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding ding.

I thought it went:

ka-ching, ka-ching, ka-ching...

PurpleR32, I believe your comment about the FPR and maxed out injectors is incorrect (and it's "they're maxed out"). If you increase the pressure behind the injector, then more fuel will be released when the injector opens. Therefore, you can reduce the duty cycle of the injector at higher fuel pressures. I have read somewhere that this is a far more efficient means of extending the power than by increasing the flow of the injectors; when delivering the same volume of fuel, the spray pattern of a standard injector at the higher pressure is superior to a large injector at lower pressure, so the ability of the engine to combust the A/F mixture is enhanced.

I thought it went:

ka-ching, ka-ching, ka-ching...

PurpleR32, I believe your comment about the FPR and maxed out injectors is incorrect (and it's "they're maxed out"). If you increase the pressure behind the injector, then more fuel will be released when the injector opens. Therefore, you can reduce the duty cycle of the injector at higher fuel pressures. I have read somewhere that this is a far more efficient means of extending the power than by increasing the flow of the injectors; when delivering the same volume of fuel, the spray pattern of a standard injector at the higher pressure is superior to a large injector at lower pressure, so the ability of the engine to combust the A/F mixture is enhanced.

Well im glad you read that you can do that and didnt actually do it. Becasue if you were aiming for that sort of power on stock injectors, your engine would be running so lean its not funny, or the injector would have failed due to stress on the component (stayed open continually injecting fuel) causing it to bend a rod.

The trouble with what is written above is that your dont want to deliver the same volume of fuel. It is correct in saying the the spray pattern of a standard injector at the higher pressure is superior to a large injector at lower pressure, but that assumes it is within the capabilities of that smaller injector. In this case it is not within the capabilities of that injector. You want to deliver more fuel than standard (or what is currently being delivered) to safely attain the desired power and A/F Ratio.

You have to be very carefull with increasing fuel pressure to achieve an increae in flow. My fluid dynamics is a bit rusty, but what I do remember is that the flow increase is way less than the pressure increase.

For example, I have increased the fuel pressure from 36-38 psi (standard Skyline fuel pressure) to 50 psi, that's a 35% increase in pressure. But the flow only increased by around 10%. I had to stop at 50 psi because the fuel pump (Bosch) was only rated for flow at 73.5 psi. That left 73.5 - 50 = 23.5 psi for boost.

In addition to the adjustable fuel pressure regulator, I had to replace all of the fuel lines (from the tank to the engine) with braided lines and screw fittings, as the standard clamp on hoses were unable to handle the extra pressure. All up (including labour) it would have been almost cheaper to buy bigger injectors and then sell the GTR ones.

:D cheers :D

SK spot on as usual

but i will add that as you up the pressure on the pump its flow rate goes south down time, like a direction reverse of the flow/pressure relationship of the injector. If you increase the pressure the pump has to supply by 10% you will lose alot more than 10% total flow from the pump.

pete

ps my R33 gtr runing std fuel pump and std pressure on to 700cc injectors has made 530rwhp with duty cycle to spare on injectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
×
×
  • Create New...