What Boost Is Safe To Run On A Stock Turbo

[copycutter]

Hey all, I tried to search for what power and boost its safe to run on my stock turbo. I was warned after the conversion to leave it pretty much at 7psi until i get a full exhaust and a fuel pressure reg. All i've got is a pod, fmic, and a catback exhaust. I'm running 9psi atm couldnt help turning it up a bit. It's reasonably quick i spose, but im already wanting more. I know its cool for up to a bar with full exhaust, my question is more to do with the damage i might cause with only half an exhaust. I dont wanna upgrade the dump and front pipe either, cos im getting a high mout gt30r, so it'd be a waste of money.

Thanks in advance,

Nick

[R31Nismoid]

well just wait for the GT30r IMO.

you really should do the exhaust before bumping the boost as there are good gains right there

[copycutter]

well how much is a dump and front pipe for an rb25, and will it fit correctly in my 180?

And would i be able to sell the dump pipe easily and get a high mount dump pipe for the new turbo later on down the track?

I thought this would cost at least 300-400 bucks just for the bits and peices, and its probably better put towards a Power FC, and just a safe boost level for the cat-back...

[The Dan]

1 bar is ok as long as the turbo is not worn out already. I have run 16 psi on them for years and never had a single problem. run 12psi if you are worried.

BTW if you want a good price on a GT30R and a custom manifold then pm me and I'll hook you up.

Cheers, Dan.

[copycutter]

1 bar is ok as long as the turbo is not worn out already. I have run 16 psi on them for years and never had a single problem. run 12psi if you are worried.

BTW if you want a good price on a GT30R and a custom manifold then pm me and I'll hook you up.

Cheers, Dan.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Hey man, probably a better question now would be whether the gt30r will support the 270 odd kw on a reasonable boost level, cos im trying to get the power without having to open the rb up for cams or head gasket. Obviously - if this figure's asking too much, ill probably just get the head gasket to lower compression into the 8:1 sorta bracket.

[R31Nismoid]

1 bar is not ok

[copycutter]

I know 1 bar is asking too much - even with a full exhaust. My question would be whether 11-12psi is ok, or if there's too much pressure and heat at the bum of the turbo still.

Also, im running a Blitz SBC iD-III boost controller. As i now understand it the manual feature allows better boost control and quicker response as its a 'duty cycle' figure for the turbo.

What 'gain' settings do i want for this setup i'm running. I dont want any smoothness or transition to boost - just all out performance. I understand the gain feature allows the ebc to bleed air partially to slow and smooth the on-boost transition. I definetly do not need this as the r33 computer and turbo are already too smooth for me its like driving an N/A car.

[The Dan]

Hey man, probably a better question now would be whether the gt30r will support the 270 odd kw on a reasonable boost level, cos im trying to get the power without having to open the rb up for cams or head gasket. Obviously - if this figure's asking too much, ill probably just get the head gasket to lower compression into the 8:1 sorta bracket.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

The GT30R will support 300rwkw but you will need to run around 18-20psi boost with the setup you have. The RB engines will handle this kind of power and boost levels as long as the head gasket is in good shape and the rings are still ok. The stock cams will not see you through to 270rwkw I don't think...at best they are good for about 250rwkw. Unless someone can prove otherwise. A metal head gasket is a bad way to lower compression, the correct way to do it is with pistons.

And R31Nismoid....why is 1 bar of boost not ok? are you saying that because of what you have heard from people or from what you know to be fact. The only reason why I say 1 bar is ok for him is because he has a FMIC and compressor surge on the stock cooler is one of the factors that causes the rear wheel to spin off them. The other reason is overspinning and at 1 bar they aren't out of their efficiency range. If he had stock cooler then I wouldn't suggest it. I personally have run 16psi for a whole year on a stock RB20 turbo and have set up 15psi on 3 other RB20's and an RB25 who have all been running it for longer than 12 months. If you take it out onto the track, however, you are asking for trouble as constant boosting at these levels will definately throw the rear wheel. Not the occasional blast off at the lights....and like I said...the turbo has to be healthy still.....if it's already worn then it will also break down but usually the bearing is what fails in that case.

[R31Nismoid]

RB20's your basing it all on... and just one RB25 out of how many that have spat?

its pretty easy to find it all if you do a search and see how many (rb25 as thats what we are talking aobut, not RB20's) have spat.

How do you know a turbo is overtly healthy without ripping it off, and pulling it apart, which then means your rebuilding it anyhow.

If the stock turbos arent out of thier efficiency @ 1bar, then a lot of people here would be surprised by that statement based on what they have tried with thier own R&D

[copycutter]

Does compressor surge really kill the rb25 turbo? If so then my ass is grass, cos i had to chop off the plumb-back one to fit my new plenum...

[NateR31]

so plumb in a bov

[paulr33]

compressor surge will kill any turbo, do a search.

12psi or higher on the stock r33 turbo will kill it sooner or later.