Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

morning all.

i spent some time on sunday making a cold air induction for the cressida, utilising a chaser head light so that i could have a cold air scoop but also have lighting on that side of the car. at the last SC meet i had major problems with intake temps of 72 degree cel, as my air filter sits in the only location i have room for it in my grandpa designed engine bay, so i am looking to get some cooler air into it.

upon reading my sport compact rule book it says must run complete headlight. i asked around at the last round in sydney, and i got mixed interpretations of the rule.

one frame of mind was as long as there was lighting on that side of the car it was ok.

the other was, if you dont have the glass and bulbs in all areas of the headlight that it came from the factory its not a complete headlight.

i know i spoke to paul about this and another guy in our class who had a bulb and also an air duct in the headlight, and i think if there is lighting it should be ok.

has anyone got any ideas on this rule or have they spoken to ohalleron about it?

any thoughts would be appreciated.

Shane.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103819-srwd-rules/
Share on other sites

well cow girls.

after a lack of banter on the topic i emailed jason ohallaren.

the complete headlight is defined as complete

ie full glass, bulb in full working order as it is from the factory. so for all point scoring rounds cars in S/RWD must have a complete functioning head light.

screws up my plans for my cold air, but i will find a way.

Shane

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103819-srwd-rules/#findComment-1918533
Share on other sites

well cow girls.

after a lack of banter on the topic i emailed jason ohallaren.

the complete headlight is defined as complete

ie full glass, bulb in full working order as it is from the factory. so for all point scoring rounds cars in S/RWD must have a complete functioning head light.

screws up my plans for my cold air, but i will find a way.

Shane

Jason is right

Rule no. SR 7.6

Complete headlight and taillight assemblies mandatory; must be operative.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103819-srwd-rules/#findComment-1920725
Share on other sites

Do S/RWD rules allow you to disable factory fitted power steer?

Rule SR 3.2 Must retain full, original OEM steering gear.

I have only tried disabling power steer once at the track...it was no real benefit other than giving my forearms a good workout.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103819-srwd-rules/#findComment-1920765
Share on other sites

Who knows...but my p/steer is staying

Bit confused here, why are you worried about S/RWD rules allowing you to disable factory fitted power steer then?

you planning on stripping the car when you race, I wouldn't worry about it my 10.5 was done with a fullweight car + some due to surge tank, big single turbo etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103819-srwd-rules/#findComment-1921811
Share on other sites

Bit confused here, why are you worried about S/RWD rules allowing you to disable factory fitted power steer then?

you planning on stripping the car when you race, I wouldn't worry about it my 10.5 was done with a fullweight car + some due to surge tank, big single turbo etc

I'm not planning on it...if I go to the drags again, I will run in the same trim as I have always done.

* Full weight, including all trim, spare wheel, tools and jack

* Street Tyres

* Full exhaust (a quiet one at that)

* Stock Airbox

* At least 3/4 tank fuel

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103819-srwd-rules/#findComment-1921843
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...